Braking trouble

[Pinger]

"The spacer you need may already be on the vehicle to raise your OEM aircleaner. If so the short adaptor will work fine. Be very careful tigtening down the spacer though. The spokes on this spacer can be easily broken if you overtighten the holddown nut. Also since this nut is under the mixer use locktite or some silcone on the nut. If it come loose for any reason the nut could end up inside the engine.

My mixer is inside the rubber trunking twixt MAF sensor and throttle body cowl so no spacers.

Lastly, if you use the OEM spacer make sure you relocate the PCV breather to the new aircleaner or use an external filter. If you leave it in its factory location it will be greathing under the mixer and sucking propane vapour through the crank case."

That may be something to consider if you didnt already handle it. But nice!

Already sorted - but only after this happened:

You must be registered for see images attach

Unlike you, not many appreciate the danger of permitting a propane/air mix to circulate in the crankcase. An inlet backfire and the whole lot goes pop.

 

[AuroraGirl]

My mixer is inside the rubber trunking twixt MAF sensor and throttle body cowl so no spacers.

Already sorted - but only after this happened:

You must be registered for see images attach

Unlike you, not many appreciate the danger of permitting a propane/air mix to circulate in the crankcase. An inlet backfire and the whole lot goes pop.

i wonder what a controlled fill in a transmission with a ignition event would do

:O

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Hi all-I'm gonna begin with Happy X-mas everybody. Just to update you on my issue-it is ABS issue-one of sensors most likely tho I only just managed to test it so still gotta fix it(clean or replace the sensor). Now after digging some more it looks like it's one of very known issues-to the extent of official GM recall-tho I'm damn sure they wouldn't touch it after 21 years lol.
I've found it here

"feels like brakes slipping" 2000 tahoe z71 gmt400 4L60E

Hello I have a 2000 tahoe z71 gmt400 4L60E with 5.7L engine. Upon braking, at the last 10% of braking, it feels like the brakes are "slipping". To be more specific, it feels like the caliper lets go and then reclamps, sometimes multiple times, just at the very end when the truck is almost to...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

and it describes it more with links to the recall and how to test it.

Now how to test it if you experience similar sensation? Simply remove ABS fuse(60A in my case) from under hood fuse box and drive it as normal. If "slipping"doesn't happen it is your culprit. Thanks again for your input everybody-enjoy your holidays.

 

[Schurkey]

Far as I know, if it's a RECALL, they're obligated to take care of it.

If it's a CAMPAIGN, you're probably S. O. L.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

No-I misread it-they acknowledged the fact it's happening but there was bo recall. Besides I'm in UK anyway so that would be no go anyways.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

That is the exact reason I removed the abs from my 94 suburban.

Just to slightly change the subject-what is required to delete abs? I recently done a longer distance test(to work with abs,back with fuse removed) just to be 100% sure and maybe it's subjective but I could swear it braked better-the feeling of the pedal was just more ...assuring,not as soft(and that's besides the previous problem) so I thought that if it's not too complicated maybe I'd give it a go?

 

[Frank Enstein]

There is a liability concern. If the ABS would have prevented/reduces the severity of an accident this can get really ugly.

So I can't tell you to use a standard combination valve and plumb around the ABS box.

 

[Schurkey]

Do a proper ABS bleeding, before you go deleting stuff.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

There is a liability concern. If the ABS would have prevented/reduces the severity of an accident this can get really ugly.

So I can't tell you to use a standard combination valve and plumb around the ABS box.

Thanks for not telling me that

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Ive dealt with that same issue and mine was from the reluctor wheel and abs sensor with build up crud on back side of rotor would only do it at slow speed stopping.

On the scan tool you could watch the wheel speed sensor signal flat line and abs would activate.

Coming back to subject-do you remember the fix? Did you clean the crud or replaced the sensor or both? Or maybe you replaced the whole hub?