Brake problem...

[evilunclegrimace]

Your best bet is to use copper/nickel brake line when you repair the system.

 

[GoToGuy]

A quick update seeing as I've found the source of the leak. A brand new in July last year copper coated steel pipe is porous just forward of where it is held against the frame rail by a plastic bolted on clip (forward of the fuel filter). I'll know better (maybe) when I remove it if it has corroded or what has caused its porosity but I don't think it is wear (eg, rubbing against frame).
Struggling to believe that an eight month old pipe has failed but that is what has happened.

It's not a " porous " material. A sponge is porous. The steel line has leak, a material failure. Possible causes , road damage, chaffing induced by vibration, corrosion trapped in line clamps, installation errors.
Any brake problems should be investigated asap. Especially if you have brake fluid on the ground. Listen; it's telling you something important.

 

[Pinger]

Maybe, under a magnifying glass I'll find a split, pin-hole, or some other defect but for now all I know is it leaked. An eight month old pipe looking like this.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[termite]

Maybe, under a magnifying glass I'll find a split, pin-hole, or some other defect but for now all I know is it leaked. An eight month old pipe looking like this.

You must be registered for see images attach

Ouch. Only 8 months and it was that bad? Looks much older than or like it spent its life in salt spray.

 

[Pinger]

It's not much better than the pipe it replaced - which was probably the original one from 1999.

 

[termite]

Last steel brake lines I replaced I went back with a roll of coated steel that was still holding after 6 years when I got rid of the truck.

 

[Pinger]

IIRC that light is triggered by an imbalance in the pressure between the front and rear brake systems.

There’s a switch near the MC that’s connected to both systems. A pressure imbalance between them pushes the switch’s internal contacts so that contact is made and the electrical circuit closed.

I don’t know that it actually detects low fluid, it may simply detect the result of low fluid.

Given that the above has happened, do I need to reset it and if so, how?
Noticed on another thread someone having difficulty bleeding their rear brakes and a suggestion the proportioning valve(?) has moved and needs resetting. Same for me (1999 C2500)?

New pipes are in - from ABS to rear flexible - just the bleeding to do. Snow yesterday scuppered that.

 

[termite]

Go back with coated steel or were you able to source NiCopp?

 

[Pinger]

Go back with coated steel or were you able to source NiCopp?

Thick walled copper with a protective plastic coating.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Given that the above has happened, do I need to reset it and if so, how?

I seem to remember that some action had to be taken to reset the switch. The service manual tellls all.

I would look it up and post the answer here if I had time, but gotta run...