Yeah, I had to tighten one up and replaced a lower ball joint on the left side last year.I bet your wheel bearings last forever too.
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Yeah, I had to tighten one up and replaced a lower ball joint on the left side last year.I bet your wheel bearings last forever too.
Years ago I was told by one of the engineer folks that the greasable ones are just as strong so long as you clock them properly. When installing make sure to orient them in such a way that the area of the grease fitting is under compression during acceleration instead of under tension. In other words, you want the legs of the U-Joints to be pushing the fitting area together instead of trying to stretch it apart.I think I'd be more inclined to replace the U-joints with standard non-greaseable units. From what I've read they're stronger than the greaseable type anyway.
Neither had the previous owner of my truck.I haven't greased mine in 21 years
That looks like a good bet. Everything else I was finding cost three times that much. Thank you.Recessed fitting adapter
A rigid, narrow 3.5” extension for your grease coupler. Easily reaches Zerk fittings in recessed or confined areas Tip has a concave cup shape to give some flexibility when positioning on the top of the Zerk fitting Quick-connect locks into any grease coupler. When used with a LockNLube Grease...locknlube.com
The only difference is, I still have needle bearings and some brown grease in the cupsNeither had the previous owner of my truck.You must be registered for see images attach
I have this type but a different brand. This one looks better with the concave tip. You really have to hold them dead on and apply constant pressure. But it works.That looks like a good bet. Everything else I was finding cost three times that much. Thank you.
Uncle Tony agrees.Years ago I was told by one of the engineer folks that the greasable ones are just as strong so long as you clock them properly.
How is the joint oriented? Zerk facing the shaft, or zerk facing the differential yoke?‘95 K1500. I recently replaced the rear aluminum driveshaft U-Joints with new ones that have grease zerks. After doing so I did a full chassis grease job. I was disappointed to discover that no matter how oriented I cannot get the fitting on my grease gun to reach the zerk in my rear U-Joint. I ended up removing the saddle straps then clamping the caps in place so I could grease them off the truck without blowing the differential side caps off.
An aluminum driveshaft requires "special" U-joints with anti-corrosion coated caps. In my case, the only U-joint I could source locally was a Made-In-China "Precision 331C" that has Coated caps.I think I'd be more inclined to replace the U-joints with standard non-greaseable units. From what I've read they're stronger than the greaseable type anyway.
I thought they were all forged. Am I wrong?Non greasable are forged, greasable are not.
I wanted non-greasable joints because I've seen greasable joints die an early death when the guy greasing them doesn't clean the crap off the zerk. Then he pumps fresh grease and old dirt into the joint at every lube-job.If I had a 600hp motor I’d probably go greaseless too. Most of us don’t need to be concerned imo. For me, I really just like the idea of new fresh grease, definitely easier not having to grease them.
Maybe your motor will identify as a 600 hp motor too?and Senile Joe approves of it's delusion.