Any luck with “narrow” grease gun fittings?

[PlayingWithTBI]

I bet your wheel bearings last forever too.

Yeah, I had to tighten one up and replaced a lower ball joint on the left side last year.

 

[any4xx]

I think I'd be more inclined to replace the U-joints with standard non-greaseable units. From what I've read they're stronger than the greaseable type anyway.

Years ago I was told by one of the engineer folks that the greasable ones are just as strong so long as you clock them properly. When installing make sure to orient them in such a way that the area of the grease fitting is under compression during acceleration instead of under tension. In other words, you want the legs of the U-Joints to be pushing the fitting area together instead of trying to stretch it apart.

On this 210 (advertised) HP monster with 3.73 gears I’m betting that I could replace the U-Joints with baling wire and not worry about them coming apart for a while. ;-)

 

[any4xx]

I haven't greased mine in 21 years

Neither had the previous owner of my truck.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[any4xx]

Recessed fitting adapter

A rigid, narrow 3.5” extension for your grease coupler. Easily reaches Zerk fittings in recessed or confined areas Tip has a concave cup shape to give some flexibility when positioning on the top of the Zerk fitting Quick-connect locks into any grease coupler. When used with a LockNLube Grease...

locknlube.com

That looks like a good bet. Everything else I was finding cost three times that much. Thank you.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Neither had the previous owner of my truck.

You must be registered for see images attach

The only difference is, I still have needle bearings and some brown grease in the cups

 

[Caman96]

That looks like a good bet. Everything else I was finding cost three times that much. Thank you.

I have this type but a different brand. This one looks better with the concave tip. You really have to hold them dead on and apply constant pressure. But it works.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Years ago I was told by one of the engineer folks that the greasable ones are just as strong so long as you clock them properly.

Uncle Tony agrees.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Schurkey]

‘95 K1500. I recently replaced the rear aluminum driveshaft U-Joints with new ones that have grease zerks. After doing so I did a full chassis grease job. I was disappointed to discover that no matter how oriented I cannot get the fitting on my grease gun to reach the zerk in my rear U-Joint. I ended up removing the saddle straps then clamping the caps in place so I could grease them off the truck without blowing the differential side caps off.

How is the joint oriented? Zerk facing the shaft, or zerk facing the differential yoke?

On mine, I couldn't get the zerk to face the shaft, there wasn't enough clearance between the bulky aluminum shaft end, and the zerk. Had to face the pinion yoke.

My "plan" is to pump the thing full of quality grease, and ignore it for the rest of it's service life. GM installed non-greaseable joints, I'm going to pretend that this one is non-greasable.

In the past--on other vehicles--I've used a steel grease needle to push grease into otherwise-inaccessable grease zerks. It works...I'm not saying it's fun. Mine is shaped differently than the one linked-to above. More like this one, but probably not this brand.
www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54216-Grease-Adapter/dp/B000N321UQ/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1KKJ64T0KOTVW

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I think I'd be more inclined to replace the U-joints with standard non-greaseable units. From what I've read they're stronger than the greaseable type anyway.

An aluminum driveshaft requires "special" U-joints with anti-corrosion coated caps. In my case, the only U-joint I could source locally was a Made-In-China "Precision 331C" that has Coated caps.

Read all about it in my thread about replacing the differential carrier of my 10.5" ring gear axle. Posts 2 and 3.

10.5" Full Float Truetrac Differential Installation

1997 K2500 8-lug 10.5” Ring Gear Full-Float axle Truetrac Differential Installation Driveline Tragedy and Heartache, Ending in Success. Intended to install an Eaton Truetrac helical-gear style “posi” in the 8-lug '97 K2500 plow truck, 10.5” full-float rear axle last summer. Things got put...

www.gmt400.com

 

[Schurkey]

Non greasable are forged, greasable are not.

I thought they were all forged. Am I wrong?

I wouldn't expect a cast-iron joint to have any strength; and casting GENUINE steel is no easy task--which is why the bottom-feeder aftermarket crankshaft companies LIE about selling "cast steel" crankshafts, when they're clearly selling "cast nodular iron" cranks.

If I had a 600hp motor I’d probably go greaseless too. Most of us don’t need to be concerned imo. For me, I really just like the idea of new fresh grease, definitely easier not having to grease them.

I wanted non-greasable joints because I've seen greasable joints die an early death when the guy greasing them doesn't clean the crap off the zerk. Then he pumps fresh grease and old dirt into the joint at every lube-job.

Therefore, I filled my new joint with proper, quality grease from a clean zerk and grease-gun coupler, and I'm going to leave it the hell alone from here on out. Don't tell that joint that it's greasable, it identifies as a non-greasable joint, and Senile Joe approves of it's delusion.

 

[Caman96]

and Senile Joe approves of it's delusion.

Maybe your motor will identify as a 600 hp motor too?