1997 K2500 8-lug 10.5” Ring Gear Full-Float axle
Truetrac Differential Installation
Driveline Tragedy and Heartache, Ending in Success.
Truetrac Differential Installation
Driveline Tragedy and Heartache, Ending in Success.
Intended to install an Eaton Truetrac helical-gear style “posi” in the 8-lug '97 K2500 plow truck, 10.5” full-float rear axle last summer. Things got put off. Around November, I figured if the truck was going to plow snow, I'd better get off my ass and do this job.
It's now the end of March. I have said that it takes me a month to change valve-cover gaskets; I guess five months to do a differential is about what I should expect. A Stealership would probably get 5 hours labor to do this job under warranty.
Phase One: Remove driveshaft. I immediately break not one, but two driveshaft strap bolts. And I knew better—the first one took enormous effort even with a long-pattern combo wrench. I “thought” it loosened a little, so I go to the next one. That one merely twists off immediately. So I go back to the first one, and give it another lil' tweak, which proves it was not loosening, it was failing.
Photo 1, 2, 3. Broken bolts and tools
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The remaining two bolts came out pretty easy...AFTER I got Mr. Oxy-Acetylene Torch on the pinion yoke, and made it glow. Ran a 5/16-24 tap through those threads, which were really in pretty fair shape. Wasted heaps of time, effort, and enthusiasm trying to remove the broken bolt shanks. Used reverse-twist drill with a drill guide I made out of some brake tubing with the idea that the drill guide would help me drill through the center of the bolts instead of drilling crooked. Used a 1/2” air drill turning low RPM hoping the reverse drill bit would “catch” the broken bolt shanks and spin 'em out. No luck.
Marinaded the broken shanks with penetrating oil for about a month. No help. Used the torch with a big “rosebud” nozzle to make the iron yoke around the bolt shanks glow. No luck. Finally put a higher-speed air drill on that bit, and spun through the center of the bolts. More marinading, more torch. Two styles of “bolt removal” tools. Heck, I even used a small welding tip to blow the torch flame through the hollow center of the broken bolt shanks so that the broken shanks glowed. Nothing helped. My goal of unthreading the broken shanks evaporated. Eventually I just crammed a letter “I” drill bit (the tap drill size for 5/16-24) through the holes, afterwards I spun a starting tap until it came out the back side of the yoke. I have nothing to show for this effort except a small hill of drill swarf and metal-tapping chips. I hope that the tap cleared the broken bolt threads out of the existing threads in the yoke, but I have no proof that this happened. All I know is that the new bolts thread into the holes nicely, hold torque, and I'd have been time, money, effort, and enthusiasm ahead to have scrapped the yoke and bought a new one. I spent more money on electricity heating the damn garage than the new 1350 size yoke would have cost.
Photo 4. New Precision 492-10 bolt and strap kit on yoke
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This portion of the job is done. Next up...U-joint on the driveshaft.
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