any fixes for this paint issue?

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DHGFX4

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I swapped out my doors last night for some rust free units. .. but the paint has seen better days. I tried a small area with my buffer and some rubbing compound to no avail.
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Its those small scratches all over the door in the clearcoat. They look like cross-hatches.. or similar to what the inside of a cylinder wall looks like.

Im assuming a wet sand and buff will do the trick, unless there is some magical product i am unaware of.
 

whiplash473

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I swapped out my doors last night for some rust free units. .. but the paint has seen better days. I tried a small area with my buffer and some rubbing compound to no avail.
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Its those small scratches all over the door in the clearcoat. They look like cross-hatches.. or similar to what the inside of a cylinder wall looks like.

Im assuming a wet sand and buff will do the trick, unless there is some magical product i am unaware of.

Hit it with 1500 wet then 3000 wet and buff it. Be careful though, if it's factory paint it's pretty thin.

EDIT: What compound where you using? I'd try some 3M 06085 first and then also use it for if you sand/buff it.
 

whiplash473

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i was using 3M 03900

That's a good medium cut but 06085 is a coarser grit that'll cut better. You can also use Meguiars 105 which is what I use for side jobs and things like you're doing. There's nothing wrong with 3M, I'm just a meguiars kinda guy.
 

michael hurd

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If it is crazed like you describe it nothing shory of stripping to bare and refinishing will heal it. Simply trying to sand flat and repainting it will cause the lines to return after the solvent leaves.

Edit:

I can't see a big picture but looking at it on the phone looks like car wash damage and not crazing.
 
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whiplash473

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If it is crazed like you describe it nothing shory of stripping to bare and refinishing will heal it. Simply trying to sand flat and repainting it will cause the lines to return after the solvent leaves.

Edit:

I can't see a big picture but looking at it on the phone looks like car wash damage and not crazing.

Even at that, it would be excessive. Hard cuts in clear will go away by knocking it down with 600 and respraying it, even after it gasses out. Not sanding/buffing fresh paint for a few weeks after it's sprayed will allow any scratches to show back up which would be made gone by sanding/buffing the gassed-out paint.
 

DHGFX4

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i bought 3M's scratch repair kit (mainly for the use of the drill attachments) and Meguiars 105. I sanded it with 1500, and worked up to 3000, used the 105, then used the 3M kit supplied scratch remover.
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i need to re-sand some spots that apparently I didnt knock down all the way.
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and im pissed it doesnt quite match either. damnit.
 

Old77

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Personally I'd just rock it as is until you can paint it since the paint doesn't match anyway :shrug:
 

DHGFX4

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Personally I'd just rock it as is until you can paint it since the paint doesn't match anyway :shrug:

I would but the paint on the rest of my truck is in really really good shapr
 
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