beefing up trailer for higher payload

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tayto

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Before I get into this, yes I know trailers are shipped out from their manufacturer and are already certified for a certain payload. I am not sure if I can get it recertified locally. if not my province has a "u-built" trailer route I can go. Basically pay an inspection fee and get it inspected and then they assign a VIN. I assume they look at structure, axle size, brakes, etc and then assign what it is rated for, but I still have to do some more research/calling around. The goal here is something that will be safe for me to tow and not endangering others on the road. Unfortunately a custom built trailer is not in my budget.

I am not going to get into my profession here, but I need to move 3000-5000 pounds of test weights. These are in the form of 500 pound "test weight" carts. I need to use the trailer probably about once a month. Drop weights off and then come back and pick them up. Most drives are locally, but we have jobs a few hours away. 5000lbs+ trailer is probably pushing the limits of the work van I currently have, so I understand if it is unrealistic and it may be better just to do 2 trips. I have talked to my employer about getting a 3/4 ton van when mine is ready for replacement.

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I am limited on space and don't want a big trailer (harder to maneuver at jobs, find parking, storing, etc). I also would like to store all the test weights in the trailer when not being used. Hence, a cargo trailer. I was torn between 8x5 and 6x10. Ended up getting a 8x5 as it was newer (2020), had increased head space/rear door so I don't have to duck when pushing carts in and out and had a rear ramp door vs barn door. It checked all the boxes but was more than I wanted to spend, but that just seems to be the norm now.

The trailer is currently rated for 1874 lbs payload and has a GAWR of 2990 lbs. It has a 3" tube chassis, crossmembers are same material but there are 2 intermediate ones that are angle iron. 3/4" plywood floor. 2 1/8" coupler.

Let's start with tires and axle. It looks like either a 6000 or 7000lbs axle would be required. From what I've seen standard available trailer tires it looks like I would need to step up to a 235/80R16 regardless of what capacity axle I go with? The other option is to add dual 3500# axles, but not sure how this would work on such a small trailer. The axle size is not standard, so I will have to get make to order (67.5" wide, 4" drop). I will also get electric trailer brakes and higher capacity leaf springs.

Now as for the chassis. I am thinking replacing the angle iron cross members with tubing is probably where to start. Also, I think going to a 2 5/16" coupler would be a good upgrade. I stopped at a local trailer/spring shop and the owner said aside from adding a few more crossmembers, it might be a good idea to upgrade the rails on the "Vee" portion that go the coupler with some heavier C- channel...
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Hipster

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One concern for me not mentioned would be 5k sitting on a 3/4 plywood floor on a small foot prints of 2 wheels each. My reference is my car trailer is built from c channel and rated for 7500 and the steel deck has dented from a an estimated 5k+tool box on 4 casters. Not exactly sure what you got but the higher off the deck the more goofy the load can act, and the more load and flex you can introduce to the frame. I would take to heart the recommend for c channel under it, that kind of weight, 5k, the trailer you bought is severely light duty, kinda looking at 2 axles and 4 tires....... and maybe plank flooring instead of plywood. It might be better, or more cost effective, to find one that suits the purpose than to make one into what you need. You're kind talking about new frame and suspension under the box.
 

termite

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Just my 0.02 here and no experience with what your plan is, but if going the 7-built route, why not just build one from scratch? Seems like everything gets stripped except the box.
 

tayto

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The average weight I would need to haul around is about 3200#. as I said, if I have to do 2 trips to move 5000#, I can live with that until I can build a better chassis for it. I currently have no shop or shop space since buying a house and moving. so replacing crossmembers is doable but building a new chassis is not. I guess I just want to only buy an axle and wheels once, so if/when I do upgrade the chassis i wont have to buy everything again
 

tayto

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Just my 0.02 here and no experience with what your plan is, but if going the 7-built route, why not just build one from scratch? Seems like everything gets stripped except the box.
see my comment above, I don't have the space or time to build from scratch. adding crossmembers can be done in a day. upgrading flooring can be done in a day. swapping axle and tires can be done in a few hours.
 

termite

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see my comment above, I don't have the space or time to build from scratch. adding crossmembers can be done in a day. upgrading flooring can be done in a day. swapping axle and tires can be done in a few hours.
I suspected that may be the case.
 

tayto

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I know 5000lbs payload is probably unrealistic without modify or rebuilding the chassis, but I am hoping 3500# payload is doable with a weekend of labour & new axle.

@Hipster I was even thinking just glueing and screwing another layer of 3/4" plywood down.
 

tayto

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I suspected that may be the case.
Ya I also didn't want something that looked homemade. I know you can probably make something look pro with time, but fabrication and painting, etc is just something that time could be spent elsewhere currently. I have been involved in a few deck trailer builds/restorations when I was younger and they were a lot more work than you think. We even redid the deck on my fathers 6x10 utility trailer last summer. between removing snapped screws, prepping the frame for a quick brush on paint job,new boards, staining boards after it was more work than anticipated. I wanted something that was a cleaner slate to get me going with less work.
 

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Ya I also didn't want something that looked homemade. I know you can probably make something look pro with time, but fabrication and painting, etc is just something that time could be spent elsewhere currently. I have been involved in a few deck trailer builds/restorations when I was younger and they were a lot more work than you think. We even redid the deck on my fathers 6x10 utility trailer last summer. between removing snapped screws, prepping the frame for a quick brush on paint job,new boards, staining boards after it was more work than anticipated. I wanted something that was a cleaner slate to get me going with less work.
I get what you're saying but I see the pic you posted now, you're talking about 3.3 to 3.5k, on that trailer, much of that weight is going to be forward of the axle putting it as tongue weight. Do axles, do tires, do crossmembers, do trailer and truck springs. do flooring, the trailer frame is not rated for it, and that unibody? truck's frame rails are only rated for x amount of tongue weight no matter the bolt ons.
 
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