Travel Trailer help

[LVJJJ]

To add to this, I rarely look at supposed weight ratings. I towed a 25 foot TT all over the Western USA with a 3500 lb 1965 Chevy Van half ton. Installed a 292 inline 6 with a built Th350, Clifford headers, Weber 2 bbl, HEI, etc. That thing pulled that TT up and over the Cascades, Rocky Mtns., as far east as Sturgis and down to Disnyland a couple of time. That engine did better than the 350, much more torque. Still have the van and it will still tow, don't do that anymore as has no A/C. I'm sure it was well over listed weight capacity, never a problem, to me, depends how skilled you are at towing.

 

[11bravo]

There are SO MANY trailers that weigh 3500 pounds, or less, available. Generally made after about 2005. Some are up to 24 feet, and well-equipped. Go to poprvs.com...they have so many parameters you can select from, and almost every unit lists the dry weight at the bottom of the listing. Many options for you.

 

[11bravo]

Go to poprvsdotcom to look at dozens of good used trailers, 3500 pounds or less.

Keep the total load under 4000 pounds and the 3.42 will be fine if you add an larger auxiliary tray cooler. Easy to do for about $60, maybe a bit more. Really, if your trailer weighs 3300, there is no reason to load it down with stuff that goes over 4000. Always fill up with water at your destination, and be reasonable about all the stuff you bring.

 

[Caman96]

It’ll pull 3500 lbs. no problem, but I’d still be leery of 10” brakes. Done a couple panic stops towing a couple Atv’s, about 2200 lbs. with my K1500/JB5 and I really wouldn’t want to be towing much more than that without a brake upgrade.

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[GoToGuy]

GM has a formula, based on engine size power, axle ratio, capacity/ spring package, hitch capacity, heat thermal control( oil cooler/ trans cooler) = what is listed on the Model description, axle capacities, on the glove box decal. It is based on what your truck is equipped with from the factory equals what your truck limits are.
GCAWR = Vehicle plus trailer rolling down the road.

 

[Schurkey]

Pulling the load is less critical than STOPPING the load.

GM has a long-term habit (going back many decades) of being stingy with the brakes, and with the tires.

 

[Caman96]

Pulling the load is less critical than STOPPING the load.

GM has a long-term habit (going back many decades) of being stingy with the brakes, and with the tires.

I would never attempt towing this 3500 lb. trailer with my truck.

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[11bravo]

I would, but I have good tires, and 4 wheel disc brakes. The problem with that trailer is the single axle, which is really weak on braking. 4 smokin' tires is better than 2...

 

[AuroraGirl]

I concur on brakes. My f150 which didnt have the best rear brakes either , but still worked, had a HELL of a time pulling an unloaded truck bed trailer that was a 1976 C20 squarebody with a topper on it. The issue wasnt pulling, it was stopping. Goiung downhill the 3.73 gears in the 14 bolt full float wanted to jackknife my truck (mind you, it was unloaded!) That doesnt have brakes of course, but its a perfect example of what you are putting your vehicle which may not be up to the task of stopping what its pulling.

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The solution for me was to remove the axle shafts from the 14 bolt full float, and cap it, and fill the thing with gear lube so that the bearings are lubricated. But realistically, the amount of frame, the diff, and the weight of the box still realistically put it in the area where i should be pulling it with my 2500 hd now. Which I will once i fix the trailer wiring.

 

[Supercharged111]

I concur on brakes. My f150 which didnt have the best rear brakes either , but still worked, had a HELL of a time pulling an unloaded truck bed trailer that was a 1976 C20 squarebody with a topper on it. The issue wasnt pulling, it was stopping. Goiung downhill the 3.73 gears in the 14 bolt full float wanted to jackknife my truck (mind you, it was unloaded!) That doesnt have brakes of course, but its a perfect example of what you are putting your vehicle which may not be up to the task of stopping what its pulling.

You must be registered for see images

The solution for me was to remove the axle shafts from the 14 bolt full float, and cap it, and fill the thing with gear lube so that the bearings are lubricated. But realistically, the amount of frame, the diff, and the weight of the box still realistically put it in the area where i should be pulling it with my 2500 hd now. Which I will once i fix the trailer wiring.

Ehh, looks to me like the real problem is circled.