Aluminum wheel spacer fail on 14bff

[PlayingWithTBI]

I dont use spacers very often so I guess I just didnt think lug nuts could just come loose like that. Never had anything like this happen before and figured they were 'tight enough' when I first put them on.

That reminds me that Mopars used to put left hand threaded lug studs on the left side of their cars. I know you mentioned the right side was loose too but, not so much? Just thinking out loud...

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I dont use spacers very often so I guess I just didnt think lug nuts could just come loose like that.

Stupid question: Could you install longer studs in the hub, ones that would simply pass through the spacers entirely and into the wheel, so that you could then lug-nut the entire assembly (wheel & spacer) in place?

 

[RichLo]

I think that would put a lot of stress on the lug studs having the weight cantilevered 2" past the engineered shear point. And lug studs cost $100 for a set, I'm sure any benefit to that would be more expensive than just getting a quality set of normal spacers.

Just looking in the link below, they do make +1" studs for these axles. So I guess there are applications for something similar, just not +2"

GM 14 Bolt Full Float Wheel Studs | Lugnut4x4

GM 14 bolt full float wheel studs Set of 16 original length or set of 16 that are 1/2" longer than OEM Chevrolet 9/16 or metric M14 thread

lugnut4x4.com

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I think that would put a lot of stress on the lug studs having the weight cantilevered 2" past the engineered shear point.

Is the peak stress in the studs different in each case, or identical? Probably doesn't matter if long studs can't be bought, eh?

Nothing's holding the wheel/spacer to the hub except the hub's studs in either case. The wheel is cantilevered from the hub surface the same distance, by the spacer, regardless of whether there are one set of studs (hub-to-wheel) or two sets (hub-to-spacer and spacer-to-wheel).

Offhand, my kneejerk is the peak stress in the studs is the same in either case, occurring at the face of the hub.

I'm not new to determining, e.g., shear and bending moments, and I've studied strength of materials, but that was a long time ago and not something I do often, so... could be wrong.

 

[letitsnow]

These are some cheap, hub-centric ebay 1 1/4" thick wheel spacers that I have been using on my s10 for a while. After initial install, I went for a hard test run then pulled back into the garage and removed the tires and spacers, then reinstalled. After another hard test run I removed the tires, checked the wheel spacer lugs, then put the wheels back on. Then... Another hard test run, then checked wheel lugs. At each check, some of the lugs needed to be tightened a bit. After the above was done, they have stayed tight.

Not that I really know what I am doing, but this worked for me - might help somebody who reads this post.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Erik the Awful]

I've had wheels that I had to torque, drive, then re-torque. I imagine these spacers probably have the same problem.

 

[GrimsterGMC]

Anytime you take your wheels off you should go for a short run and then re-torque, especially with Ali rims, spacers etc.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I disagree, I think it's a cheap wheel/cheap spacer problem. High end wheels don't suffer from this. This weekend we raced our BMW, and when the wheels are torqued, it hits the track. We can't afford the time to bring it back in for a re-torque. Dealership technicians don't drive and re-torque, they can't afford the time. Factory wheels don't need this. The cheap wheels on my old Jeep had this problem, and it was annoying.

 

[someotherguy]

I disagree, I think it's a cheap wheel/cheap spacer problem. High end wheels don't suffer from this. This weekend we raced our BMW, and when the wheels are torqued, it hits the track. We can't afford the time to bring it back in for a re-torque. Dealership technicians don't drive and re-torque, they can't afford the time. Factory wheels don't need this. The cheap wheels on my old Jeep had this problem, and it was annoying.

Many aftermarket wheels I've bought including billet Centerlines suggest re-torquing after 30 miles or so. The number may be incorrect because it's been many years since I bought 'em new but that's what is stuck in my head. They may not necessarily -need- it but that's their CYA suggestion. I do it on all wheels, steel or aluminum.

Richard

 

[Spareparts]

When i put wheel spacers on i use blue loctite on the studs that hold the spacers on. Never had a problem with cheap spacers.