'96 K1500 5.7 Crank no start, no changes.

[juror]

So I bought the '96 K1500 5.7L mentioned in the title with a plow to use as a plow truck. It had been in service as a plow truck, is wholly uninspectable, and therefore unplateable, uninsurable, etc., in Vermont. It drove home 30 miles just fine in early spring, and despite my best intentions, has been parked pretty much since then except for moving it out of the way of some other project. Winter is coming, and so I've been trying to get a couple of minor gripes taken care of becuaes I'm definitely not going to get any major ones dealt with this year.

In the course of moving it around our home several times this summer, I've noticed what felt like some slip in the transmission. Upon consulting with the forums and a couple folks I know in the area, the first thing to check is the ATF level. Yesterday, I took it out and drove it enough to get things heated up for a hot level check. It was low. I went and got a couple quarts, drove it around again enough to get it heated back up, and ended up adding three quarts of Dexron VI to get the level into the hot range on the dipstick. I notice a little more whining than I had noticed before, but it seemed like it was running good and not slipping. Hunky and dory, right?

I parked it, turned it off, and went about my day today. I figured I'd fire it up this evening and see how it drove cold.

It cranks strong, but I'm not getting a start. No coughing, no sputtering, nothing.

I searched here, but the crank no start threads I found were people trying to get things going following some kind of major alterations, up to an engine swap. That isn't where I'm at. So I've registered and here I am.

I'm downloading the service manuals that I found posted here. In the meantime, anybody got anything quick for me to start with? I own a fairly complete set of hand tools and a digital multimeter, but no scan tool or anything specific to checking fuel pressure. Or anything GM specific. This is my first GM vehicle.

 

[Komet]

Check spark, check fuel pressure. If you don't mind a little electrocution and getting gas on your finger, no specialty tools required. Otherwise rent specialty tools at the parts store.

 

[juror]

Check spark, check fuel pressure. If you don't mind a little electrocution and getting gas on your finger, no specialty tools required. Otherwise rent specialty tools at the parts store.

Spark like a lawn mower? Pull a plug, ground it on the block and crank (or rather, have Mrs. Juror crank since I don't own a remote starter). I actually just brought an Ariens rototiller from the early '70s back to life and got myself zapped checking for spark.

For fuel, I've never had to check fuel pressure on a fuel injected engine before. Is there a preferred place to crack the system open? The first video I've watched on youtube suggests pulling the filter.

Any time in the past that I've had a crank no-start I've been monkeying with the vehicle and had a pretty good idea what I might have screwed up to get myself there. I'm a little lost starting from it was running just fine not 24 hours ago.

Thanks!

 

[SAATR]

Spark like a lawn mower? Pull a plug, ground it on the block and crank (or rather, have Mrs. Juror crank since I don't own a remote starter). I actually just brought an Ariens rototiller from the early '70s back to life and got myself zapped checking for spark.

For fuel, I've never had to check fuel pressure on a fuel injected engine before. Is there a preferred place to crack the system open? The first video I've watched on youtube suggests pulling the filter.

Any time in the past that I've had a crank no-start I've been monkeying with the vehicle and had a pretty good idea what I might have screwed up to get myself there. I'm a little lost starting from it was running just fine not 24 hours ago.

Thanks!

Grounding a plug to the block while cranking will tell you if you have spark, but won't tell you if enough energy is reaching the plug to jump the gap while under cylinder pressure. It's a great way to find out if the system is working at all, though .

There is a small plastic cap on the fuel line leading to the intake manifold. Under it is the fuel pressure test port. It is threaded with a small Schrader valve inside. Key on/ engine off, you should get a healthy spray of fuel if you depress the valve with a pen or the tip of a screwdriver. If you get a dribble or nothing at all, you have a fuel supply issue. You can also turn the key on and listen near the fuel tank. You should hear the whining whirr of the fuel pump priming for a few seconds. If it's dead silent, the pump could be dead, or simply lacking power. That would be where the schematic comes in handy. The fuel pumps on these trucks are a known weak point. Good luck.

 

[Schurkey]

Absolutely verify spark. Ideally, with a spark-tester calibrated for HEI ignitions. Specifically, one where the spark jumps an actual gap, NOT one where the spark makes some dumbasp light-bulb glow.

There's several designs, sold by multiple suppliers. This style is my favorite:
www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

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Distributor caps are a known weak-point. The United Motors vented cap with matching rotor come well-recommended. I bought a set, but haven't installed it.

There should be a fuel pump bypass wire in the harness. Sometimes one of the terminals on the ALDL connector. Put power to that, and the pump runs continuously--makes diagnosing the fuel pump system easier. So much the better if you apply power to that terminal using an ammeter, so you can measure fuel pump amperage draw. A fresh fuel filter is recommended, as is replacing all the filters, fluids 'n' lubricants in a new-to-you vehicle.

How old are the spark plugs and plug wires?

ALL the fuses good? It's not out of gas...is it? Does it fire if you spray carb cleaner or starting fluid into the throttle body?

 

[juror]

Thanks everybody so far!

I have no fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. I depressed the valve with a screw driver, and got a little welling up of fuel, but no spray. I don't suppose I can get at the wiring connected to the pump to confirm I have 12V to it without going through most of the hassle of getting at it to replace it in the first place?

I'm not excited about either dropping the tank or raising the bed to get at the pump. The bed has a poorly attached cap and a few hundred pounds of loose sand for ballast while plowing, and the underside of the truck looks like the underside of a truck that's almost 30 years old and has 175,000 miles on it.

No firing when I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body. I'm heading to town anyway so I'll see if I can pick up a spark tester like

Schurkey mentioned.​

As for everything else electrical: very few things work fully. No horn, no wipers, no radio. Heater blower works on high only. That kind of thing. It's been a plow truck for a while, with all the baggage that comes with that kind of service.

 

[DixieMafia251]

Sounds like u might need new spider.And as far as Electrical goes,You need to Check all fuses and relays.Keep us updated!

 

[Schurkey]

Verify power at the rearmost fuel pump connector that's accessible--near, but not on top of the fuel tank.

If you have power there, you need to investigate the pump area by dropping the tank or raising the bed.

No power there, you need to investigate the wiring/connections/relay/switches farther forward, which wouldn't involve tank or bed.

As said--verify ALL fuses, fusible links, etc.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I had something similar happen to me last year, with my Suburban. I checked the fuel line Schrader valve at the rear of the engine (on the fuel line coming to the back of the intake manifold). No spray, just residual fuel. I knew it had a fresh cap and rotor, and the plugs were just a year old. Checked out the connections on the ignition module and coil, they were okay. On a Suburban you have to drop the tank to check or get to the wiring harness. No pump noise when I had the key on.
Crazy thing was, we had been driving it a few days earlier, with no problem, then parked it to drive the crew cab for a couple of days. Went back to swap trucks, and Burb will not start. Cranked great, but apparently there was no fuel getting to the engine. Ended up replacing the fuel pump; draining and dropping the tank. Fortunately my neighbor, where we used to live and where whichever truck we're not driving is stored, had done this job recently on a relative's Burb. So he knew exactly what tools he needed and what to do. Once we were done and everything was put back together, I went to start it...and it fired right up with only turning the key. This truck had been needing a tap or two on the gas, to start, for so long, I honestly couldn't remember when it hadn't! That shows how gradually the pumps wear out....
One of the checks I had done, was to swap the fuel pump relay, in the underhood fuse box, with another one with the same pin configuration. If it doesn't work after that, and you don't have much fuel at the Schrader valve, you may be needing to replace the fuel pump. At least on a pickup, you usually have the option of dropping the tank or lifting the bed to access it from the top. Doesn't sound like the latter option, is an option in your case though.

 

[Astro]

I didn't read everyone's responses so forgive me if someone already said this, but one thing I do to check if it's a fuel delivery issue is take off the intake tube and shoot some carb cleaner into the throttle body while someone is cranking it. If it starts for a secone over but then dies when your done spraying, it's fuel related.

You can buy a cheap spark tester at the auto parts store that hooks up in line with your spark plug/wire. Alleviates you getting shocked, unless you like that sort of thing!

Sorry I had a minute to respond!