Discussion in 'Member Trucks' started by 95C1500, Apr 12, 2019.
Yeah the discs do seem to be easier to replace when they fail.
I went without the e brake - never use them where I typically use the truck. I do carry a block of wood in the box though, just in case. Most vehicles up here in the rust belt - people never use the e brake. They then decide to use it, and after dragging the cable through salt for years, they can't get the brakes to release.
The disc kit that I went with (lugnuts4x4) wasn't quite plug n play. I had to do a little work to get everything to fit. It seems like we have to do that with most stuff though...
Once set up and working - you really do forget about them because they just work. The oem brakes on these trucks are probably the weakest link on a gmt400. When new they are barely acceptable. After a few years of use, they are dangerous. You will like the discs, if you make the change.
The ebrake saved my ass in high school. Blew a wheel cylinder leaving school one day. Went to stop at a light and my foot hit the floor so I eased onto the ebrake and came to a stop. Limped it home with the ebrake too. So other than being required, I like having it.
It’s not a matter of if, just when. I hate drum brakes
Heard that. If there was a definitive solution on disk rears with parking brake integration, I’d be all over it. So far I’ve yet to see anyone that was able to get theirs to work correctly.
That's what I've heard too. I'm willing to give it a shot. Maybe I could figure out something else for a parking brake if I can't get it to work
Replaced the front brakes
ACDelco Semi Metallic Pads
ACDelco Front Rotors
Timken Inner Wheel Bearings
Timken Outer Wheel Bearings
Timken Wheel Seals
Also changed the oil ($23; next at 160,000) and added freon ($7 can, $140 rental for the gauges) was short cycling, my neighbor's manifold gauges were showing 90 psi low side so I stopped adding last time. Rented a set of gauges from Vatozone and while adding freon, the low side was between 30 and 40 and the high side was around 150-160. Seemed good. Honestly could use a little more I think. The compressor cycles more frequently than I'd like. But, I'm going to have a shop mess with the system before the summer. I don't know nearly enough about AC to get it working properly.
Mileage fro previoous post should be 156,220. Can't edit.
November 16, 2019
Had an issue with the gauge cluster going dead while driving. Whacking the dash with my fist fixed the issue temporarily. The truck seemed sluggish afterwards though. Parked the truck at a buddies house, walked back out 2 minutes later and it drove fine. Fast forward a week, it happened again on the way home from work. This time, I noticed the doors unlocked when it happened. My keyless entry system is set up to unlock the doors when it senses the ignition power is cut (key off). So that basically narrowed it down. Truck was stuck in limp mode and wouldn't shift out of third gear. Threw code 81 and 82.
I pulled the knee panel and bracket off and moved the group of wires running from the wheel to the junction under the dash. Doors unlocked over, and over, and over. The pink/white ignition wire from the ignition switch is where I tapped in for that power. The solder joint broke and was disconnecting just enough to cut ignition power. Whacking the dash forced contact. I could not for the life of me get the wires heated up enough to solder so I ended up using a butt connector and heatshrink. Not my preferred way of fixing it but it'll last a lot longer than my shitty solder job.
Also tried a couple of junkyard CHMSLs since mine went out (no brake or cargo lights). I tested with a DMM and got 12v when the brake was pressed at the connector so I figured it was the sockets. None of them worked. So I need to track that issue down too.
Have you tried a different ignition switch? That could be causing it to go in limp mode and making the cluster go dead. My 97 did something similar to yours a few months ago, after I'd restarted it, it was back to normal until it got so bad that wouldn't reset anymore after restarting it. I've seen 1A Auto's go one for 95-96 trucks for $40, way cheaper than what I had to pay for mine (97-98s $130).
I fixed it by repairing my broken solder joint
Ahhh, I see, good thing it wasn't something too difficult to fix.
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