6.0 ls swapped 95c1500

[nhyrum]

I apologize in advance, I can sometimes tend to over think and over complicate things, so if any of what I say is way out of left field, let me know.

I'm working on putting in an 04 lq4 into my 1995 c1500. And I've got a few questions while I work on things, like finishing the engine rebuild, and getting a good trans, and other parts and pieces I know I'll need

My end goal is a build that I don't cut any corners, and I want things to last. I am shooting for something around 600 whp, that will get driven "regularly" but not completely a daily driver.

I've got the engine, minus accessories, and, I believe, both a DBW and DBC throttle body for it. No wiring harness or ECU. I'll be getting an 0411 ECU. engine spun the#1 main, so I had the block machined, new rings and bearings, rings gapped so I can add boost later. Btr truck norris cam and brt springs.

Fuel pump is a walbro 450, -8 an supply, -6 return, Holley 76lb injectors

A few questions I have now are

1) the truck didn't come with factory cruise control. How hard would it be to add? Will I have to be DBW for it?

2) can I have some sort of traction control? Does the 0411 PCM have some kind of capacity like that? Would it have to be DBW? No big deal if it's not able to.

3) ps pump and lines. I need a ps pump, and I'd like to go hydroboost breaks, which I believe run off the ps pump? I believe there was a pump that worked better for hydroboost? What pump should I get? I'll also need new hoses, as the old ones were cut.

4)"economy cruise" tune? I'd like to have two tunes for it, ideally. If it even makes sense. Something that's kind of like a highway cruising economy tune, and a "daily driver, but still knocks tires off" but not quite "street strip" I don't really plan on messing with tuning much, I won't be changing anything in the tunes, that I'll have professionally done. Is it easy to go in and swap tunes with hp tuners? Does it even make sense to have two?

5) flexible brake lines. I'd like to replace the aged rubber brake lines, are braided stainless lines the best? I've heard problems with grime and grit getting under the braiding and causing issues. I know they'll still have some expansion, but better than rubber. Is there something that's still flexible enough for the suspension travel(at least up front) but rigid enough to not swell under pressure?

part of me wants to take advantage of all the features of a computerized system (traction control, lean cruise, shutting off fuel for coasting, etc), but at the same time I want to be directly connected to the engine, and don't want any delay.



I'm sure as I get further along I'll have more questions.

 

[Alteca]

cruise control can be added with a factory firewall mounted module and then connect the cable to your new throttle body. Not sure about wiring or how to add cruise control with DBW. No I don’t believe 2 tunes makes sense for your case although flex fuel might be of interest to you at that power level. I have been using braided brake lines that have some type of clear coating over the braid which completely prevents the dirt and grime issue. If your trying to get every bit of stopping performance like I am (and at 600whp you should be) then yes braided lines are the best IMO.

 

[nhyrum]

cruise control can be added with a factory firewall mounted module and then connect the cable to your new throttle body. Not sure about wiring or how to add cruise control with DBW. No I don’t believe 2 tunes makes sense for your case although flex fuel might be of interest to you at that power level. I have been using braided brake lines that have some type of clear coating over the braid which completely prevents the dirt and grime issue. If your trying to get every bit of stopping performance like I am (and at 600whp you should be) then yes braided lines are the best IMO.

If it's pretty straight forward with DBC I think I'd prefer that. I know I'll need a multi function switch(blinker switch) as mine doesn't have the cruise button. I know putting the switch in isn't awful, but I believe I should have to run all the electrical for the cruise, unless they left everything wired, but just didn't have the modules.

I do have interest in ethanol, but e85 is nearly impossible to get. Nowhere within like 300 miles. If I did more track day stuff with it, buying a barrel might make sense, but for just daily driving, I don't think the expense makes sense.

Yes, stopping is important to me. I got 8600 gvw 3/4 ton front calipers(larger piston, but I can run the same pads) I'll go braided. I know I can get a front kit for 2wd, are there any rubber lines in the rear?

 

[Alteca]

Yes there are rubber lines in the rear but I’m not sure if anyone is swapping those for braided or if there is even aftermarket support for that.

 

[nhyrum]

Yes there are rubber lines in the rear but I’m not sure if anyone is swapping those for braided or if there is even aftermarket support for that.

I thought there was.

If anyone knows of a rear line kit, a direction would help.

I figure since I'm going to have so much off, may as well go through a lot of the truck

 

[nhyrum]

Alright, so I'm on to figuring out what wheels and tire size I want to run, so I can figure out what rear gear ratio I want, and figure out how much I can lower it, and if I'll need to make room for more tire.I want to be able to cruise on the freeway at 70 and be under 2500 rpm, or there about. Trans will be a 4l60e for now.

Currently the truck has I believe 5.5 inch wide 15 inch rims. Sporty tires(something with a short, stiff sidewall) are hard to find for a 15 inch rim, and give a tire that's just to short, so rpm's at speed go up. But there's tires like the copper cobra and it's that have a 275/60r15, or essentially a "small tire" drag size or 28x10.5, which are easy enough to find, but slicks and drag tires are more common.

So the question is, do I run "small tire" which should be plenty of tire for me given what those guys can do and stick with the 15's, but get something in the 8.5-9.5 width range so I can fit a 10.5? Or get something like an 18 inch rim, so I can get a tire with a shorter sidewall for better handling? If so, what rim size would be easiest to find tires for? I'm thinking an 18? But I don't want the wheels to look to big and stupid.

And finally rear gear ratio. I believe that truck has 3.55 in it now, I'm thinking going to a 3.73 and a 28 inch tall tire. Thoughts?

 

[Shwa Kid]

...A few questions I have now are

3) ps pump and lines. I need a ps pump, and I'd like to go hydroboost breaks, which I believe run off the ps pump? I believe there was a pump that worked better for hydroboost? What pump should I get? I'll also need new hoses, as the old ones were cut.
4)"economy cruise" tune? I'd like to have two tunes for it, ideally. If it even makes sense. Something that's kind of like a highway cruising economy tune, and a "daily driver, but still knocks tires off" but not quite "street strip" I don't really plan on messing with tuning much, I won't be changing anything in the tunes, that I'll have professionally done. Is it easy to go in and swap tunes with hp tuners? Does it even make sense to have two?
5) flexible brake lines. I'd like to replace the aged rubber brake lines, are braided stainless lines the best? I've heard problems with grime and grit getting under the braiding and causing issues. I know they'll still have some expansion, but better than rubber. Is there something that's still flexible enough for the suspension travel(at least up front) but rigid enough to not swell under pressure?

3) The LS engines use the same style of Saginaw pump that the GMT400's came with, factory lines should work just fine (I didn't do hydroboost, so can't confirm that part). The Hydroboost pumps just have an extra return to the reservoir. It's easy to swap reservoirs if you want to go that route. What you need to watch for is whether the donor came from a truck with a rack and pinon rather than the old style recirculating ball one, this may be a 2WD vs 4x4 thing; anyways, there's an orifice on the output from the pump on the high pressure side, you need the one that matches the gearbox, you can just re-use the one from your truck.
4) On the GenIII engines, you can program the tow/haul button to somewhat do this, basically adjust your shift points.
5) No comment on lines, but with those larger calipers you need to make sure you're moving enough fluid for them, or you'll be moving your bias towards the rear, I had used the matching master cylinder when I did this swap, but I also used the larger rear drums (I think they have a 1" wheel cylinder rather than 7/8" or something like that). I guess this ties into your hydroboost question, try to drive a truck with it before you spend your money, a lot of people don't like the pedal feel.

In playing with your wheel/tire sizes keep an eye on what type/quality tires are available, a radial t/a isn't going to perform nearly as well as a modern tire for example, but they look cool in a 275/60R15.

 

[nhyrum]

In playing with your wheel/tire sizes keep an eye on what type/quality tires are available, a radial t/a isn't going to perform nearly as well as a modern tire for example, but they look cool in a 275/60R15.

Yeah, that's been the issue. I really like the wheels that are on it(it was my grandpa's truck, so they're somewhat sentimental, but the truck isn't going to get pallets for firewood anymore ) but with a 15 inch rim I'm pretty limited to a slick or a T/A. I'd like at least a 28 inch tire, but I don't know if a 175/60r18 is available in a performance tire, or what wheel size I'd find a tire like that in.

I think I'll plan to fit a 28x10.5, as I really see no need for anything bigger.

 

[Shwa Kid]

There's lots of good tools on this page, both the comparison calculator on the left and the comparison charts further down the page, that might help you find something. I've got some 275/55R17 Toyo's that handle a lot better than the 275/60R15 Radial T/A's I had previously. I found the T/A's would roll the sidewall pretty easily when turning so I ended up running a significantly higher pressure in them.

 

[GoToGuy]

It's the lower profile that has stiffer side wall. Think of it as a line drawn in arc. Quarter circle. That's the movement in a 60 series tire. Take away a third of that arc line now you have less available movement 50 series. Therefore same plies but less movement equals stiffer sidewall, less roll, more contact footprint.
Higher pressure for racing short time is done regularly. But everyday causes wear issues.