95C1500's 1995 Silverado "Build" Thread

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95C1500

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Hold the c down until CAL comes up then drive slowly in a circle to calibrate it until it stops flashing.

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I hopped in the truck today and the "cal" wasn't illuminated anymore and the compass seemed to be working. Hoping it stays that way. If not, I'll calibrate using what you said :waytogo:
 

95C1500

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Replaced the LEDs in the cluster with SBL 194s. Also replaced the headlamp switch bulb (faulty switch, not the bulb), and the two IP bulbs as well. What a difference.

(6) 194-GHP5
(2) 194-CWHP5
(1) NEO4-GHP

$41.74 from superbrightleds

Picture also shows how dim my radio LEDs are compared to the other bulbs. Drives me crazy. Trying to figure out an alternative. Also, took the bulbs out of the HVAC control panel because they would not stay on. Flickered like crazy. Faulty wiring in all 4 sockets in the panel.

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95C1500

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The factory CD player bit the dust. Searched aftermarket radios, considered double din radios. Ultimately, I wanted to keep the stock look so I decided to attempt to add an aux input to my factory radio. So, bought an aux jack, necessary wire, etc only to find out my radio was missing the circuit board with the ribbon connector. So that idea went out the window.
So I started considering factory option radios that would require very little modification required and came across an add for factory radios with bluetooth and aux input in place of the facotry cassette player which I have never once used. Completely refurbished. They had a special rebate going on which was an automatic $22.50 off.
Other than a bulb being burned out (which will be replaced with green LEDs eventually anyway), everything works as it should.
I'll void the warranty when I open it to replace the LEDs so I'm a little hesitant. However, I'll take my chances. We'll see how it holds up.

Also ordered a cd delete pocket. It was cheap and was expecting a factory looking, one piece unit but was surprised when it showed up in two pieces with four screws needing assembly. Does the trick though.

$202.50 with free shipping from 1 Factory Radio on Amazon.
$10.90 with free shipping from custominstallparts on Amazon.

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PlayingWithTBI

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I was reading back on your posts...

Had the 3 ujoints and the center support bearing replaced by Stan Hopkins in Dallas. The lack of a press killed my motivation to do the work myself.

We used to use a C-clamp to install the caps (we'd cut the old ones out with a torch, grease fire balls everywhere,lol).
 

95C1500

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I was reading back on your posts...



We used to use a C-clamp to install the caps (we'd cut the old ones out with a torch, grease fire balls everywhere,lol).
Yeah, no. I spent my childhood burning bushings and **** out of control arms on my dads cars lol.
 

95C1500

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Had the window tint replaced. The old was the cheap, dyed Lumar tint. 30% in front, 20% rear 3. It was never dark enough. I hated it from the second I picked it up.

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I had 20% front, 5% rear 3 nano film (midgrade stuff).

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It's not exactly legal in Texas, but I'm very happy with it.

Once I get my cracked windshield replaced, I'm going with a layer of... I don't remember what it's called... but it's "10x better than ceramic for keeping heat out" and a 25% strip at the top.

Also pictured are new driver side mirror and new wiper arms (to fix chattering)
 
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95C1500

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Started off by trying to figure out why my comp/temp mirror read fine upon start up but would quickly fall off to "-39 F". Swapped a new mirror, swapped multiple sensors. Nothing changed. LEft the sensor bracket unscrewed from its mounting hole and drove it like that for three days now, temperature seems to be working fine. :shrug: The old mirror display would also dim to the point I couldn't even read it at night. New mirror seemed to fix that. Fingers crossed.

Next up, I fixed the dome circuit ignition cut off for the keyless entry system. I rigged up a connector running from the main ignition wire I tapped into for the keyless entry system, for the comp/temp mirror. I didn't get a good connection for the keyless entry side because the interior lights wouldn't shut off when the ignition was turned"ON". That's now fixed.

Tried to figure out my intermittent door lock issue. Every now and then, more frequent recently, the drivers door lock doesn't work. It seems to begin working again after I go to the other side of th truck and hit the passenger lock switch a few times. Might be purely coincidental. Swapped it with a switch I nabbed from the junkyard and that didn't fix the issue. Strangely enough, I was messing with the switch with the bottom of the case off and the locks worked everytime and were solid. So I left the bottom of the case off and put everything back together. Again, might be coincidental but we shall see.

After replacing my fuel pump, the fuel gauge has not worked. I assumed I hadn't made a good ground on the frame rail upon reinstallation. I cleaned and tightened that ground (which was loose) and no change. It began by reading about 3/4 of a tank. Stayed that way for several days. Then I noticed it read half a tank. A few days passed and it read way past full. Like, laying perfectly horizontal. It has been on "E" for the last several weeks. I figure it finally completely gave up. I'm going to ohm out the connector and I expect to see 0 (reading E on the gauge). I'm sure it's the sending unit but I am not wanting to pull the bed or drop the tank again so soon.

In the spirit of grounds, I decided to go around and clean all the grounds in the engine bay. Noticed the ground running from the frame to the back of the head is coated in crap (from an oil leak). Couldn't see an easy way to get to it so I left it for now. It will require attention at some point in the near future, simply for peace of mind.

The next thing I did was try to figure out why I had so much noise in the radio I bought. I can't use the bluetooth or aux input without a ton of background noise. I tried grounding the radio case directly to a solid ground source under the dash. No change. That's the extent of my radio/electrical noise knowledge. The radio (am/fm) is crisp and clear. The first radio had no noise with bluetooth. Aux had noise. They swear there is nothing wrong with their radios they sent me. I really don't know what to do from here. They are sending a second replacement out and if it has noise, I don't know what to do. Probably add a noise filter but I have no knowledge on this issue so it'll require some research.
 

95C1500

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Bought a spare wheel/tire at the junkyard last week. Pulled the 18 year old michellin off and installed a 265/75r15 Cooper Discoverer M+S studabble (cheapest tire we sell in that size. Had to be shipped from Minnesota lol) at work yesterday. Found out my spare tire tube... whatever its called... is slightly bent and the inside is stripped out. It'll be hell getting that tire back down. I'll have to figure something out there. Feels good to have a spare after selling my original 3 years ago (when I went to 6 lug).

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Also replaced the squeaky bent tensioner and idler pulley (because it was cheap and I was right there). Squeak is gone.

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