I can't get the damned numbering and bullets to SHUT OFF. So the numbering and bullets is now completely screwed up. Pay no attention...
Did you buy the RIGHT sending unit for the truck? Some sending units are for 0--60 psi gauges, some are for 0--80 psi gauges. Using the wrong sending unit will give you incorrect reading on the gauge.
Not likely, since you said you rolled the engine over and watched the distributor rotor, and there wasn't much slack. A few degrees is normal, I replace timing set at ~10 degrees, and they aren't jumping at that amount.
>>>>Change oil and filter, check fuel pressure, verify oil pressure with a known-good gauge, verify engine operating temperature with a meat thermometer in the rad filler neck, or an infra-rad "temp gun". Connect scan tool, view data stream. Look for problem areas.<<<<
UPDATE:
She's running... not with full power, though.
- Test drive report:In sunny 85 degree weather w/45% humidity it took it's time getting up to temperature - 180 t-stat is per Jet Performance specs - it barely gets there on the stock GM gauge
- Is the temp gauge accurate?
- "I" would shitcan the "Jet Performance" chip, and install a stock one, at least until the engine runs properly.
- "I" would install a proper stock-temperature thermostat at least until the engine runs properly.
- With new oil pressure sensor installed, oil pressure reads very low at idle - almost to the red on the stock GM gauge - then jumps up and reaches 30-35 psi under power
- You cranked for days, spraying enough fuel to foul the plugs. How much fuel is now contaminating the oil, making it thin, thin, thin,
Did you buy the RIGHT sending unit for the truck? Some sending units are for 0--60 psi gauges, some are for 0--80 psi gauges. Using the wrong sending unit will give you incorrect reading on the gauge.
WHAT IS THE FUEL PRESSURE?
- Stumbles under acceleration - exhaust note seems "loud" - not the smooth "tuned" note it had after we added the Jet chip last year.
- Cruises along at speed OKAY, if not accelerating
- Struggles to generate enough torque to get the tranny to kick down
In MY driveway, that vehicle would be connected to a scan tool so I could see the data stream. Codes might be helpful, but the data stream tells (almost) all.gas gauge did not budge for a change!
- Basically, we are back to where we started prior to all the repairs - fluffy idle and weak/shaky engine under power - minus the really rough idle, horrible smelling exhaust, and poor fuel economy.
I am now very open to the suggestion that the timing chain is really gone and jumped a tooth...
If it would still run - and I've read arguments that it will not - out-of-sync valve timing would certainly explain most of these problems.
Not likely, since you said you rolled the engine over and watched the distributor rotor, and there wasn't much slack. A few degrees is normal, I replace timing set at ~10 degrees, and they aren't jumping at that amount.
Already told you---probably oil burning. Maybe bad rings, maybe bad guides, maybe bad valve stem seals, maybe bad intake gaskets. You've replaced the intake gaskets. You already know that the engine was using a ton of fuel, and ran crappy, so the oil was probably thinned-out then like it's thinned-out now.Curious to hear thoughts about the vastly different spark plug conditions - some clean, some oiled up/black, some sooty/brown...
>>>>Change oil and filter, check fuel pressure, verify oil pressure with a known-good gauge, verify engine operating temperature with a meat thermometer in the rad filler neck, or an infra-rad "temp gun". Connect scan tool, view data stream. Look for problem areas.<<<<