4.3L to ?? swap.

[DeCaff2007]

just done the same with my 95, yanked the engine due to blown head gasket .....

i see you're holding trans up with straps, if you set a 3/4 in piece of plywood across the torsion bars, under trans pan, its more stable imo.

also make sure torque converted can't come off unexpectedly ....

have fun.

I'll keep that in mind, about the plywood.

What's a torque converter? LoL j/k but this is a 5-speed. I don't have any problems with the flexplate nor the clutch... so I'm going to be re-using them for both the V6 re-install and the V8-swap.

I just do not have the parts available at the moment to start swapping in the V8 and I need this on the road sooner than later.

I haven't decided yet if I'm going to continue working on this in the morning or not.

 

[Schurkey]

I found the casting code and learned that these heads are absolutely nothing special lol.

10110810: 1991 through 1997 305ci and 350ci engines. 64cc chambers. 305ci had 1.84-inch intake valves and 350ci engines had 1.94-inch intake valves.

Are these swirl-port heads? If so, they're turds.

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Leaking valve stem seals, perhaps coupled to poor-quality (non-Top Tier) gasoline.

NOTE: using a seat belt instead of a load leveler is soooo much easier!

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It's hard to tell from this pic, however, the engine lift didn't go any higher and the oil pan was just a 1/2" shy of clearing the radiator support.

The hook from the engine hoist is WAY too high above the engine. I make it a point to shorten the chain as much as possible, and then bolt the chain around the hook so the chain can't slide through the hook, tipping the engine forward or backward. I don't know how you'd secure a seat-belt around the hook. My hook ends-up about 6--8 inches above the intake manifold. (Carb or TBI comes off, first.)

That's the dirty secret of cheap engine hoists--the only reason they can claim a "2-ton" rating is because the boom is so short there's little leverage on the hydraulic ram. Makes the overall cost of the engine hoist less, too. It also means they can't lift very high; and they can be made of thin steel for lower shipping weight.

Someone want to tell me what part of these mounts won't work with the V8?

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All of it, I think. The V8 mounts will be more forward, about where the four bolts are that hold the plate to the frame. The rubber cushion assembly goes on the frame instead of the engine, and the all-steel brackets bolt to the engine instead of the frame.

The V-8 rubber cushion for the 4WD have a step in the bottom, formed to match the frame. The aftermarket versions are putrid junk.

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Good luck finding decent motor mount cushions. Some guys claim to have put the Energy Suspension Polyurethane cushions into the OEM steel shells, but I couldn't get 'em to fit. They're not made like the original rubber cushions, they're HUGE, and the steel inserts are positioned at the wrong angle.

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Anyway, I have a new intake manifold gasket, new oil pan gasket, and new TBI gasket all waiting to be installed. Also, I'm going to scrub some of the oily mess off of the block. The starter, wiring, side of the block, exhaust manifold, dipstick tube... all drenched in oil. There's also a fresh puddle that formed in my driveway from when I was pouring in a bottle of Motor Honey. $7 useless gimmick to stop leaks. I'll let you all guess if it worked or not.

You're fixing-up the V6?

Haul it to a car-wash, use the warm, soapy, high-pressure water to spray the garf off of the engine. You'll want to prevent water entry into the engine, of course.

Oh, and btw... I bought a 28" core radiator with oil cooler support from Rock Auto, for the V8 when it's ready. The very next day, lol, I found the coveted 33" core rad WITH oil cooler support! One of those radiators is going in. That tiny V6 radiator is getting junked.

Got radiator hoses to fit the new radiator?

 

[DeCaff2007]

Are these swirl-port heads? If so, they're turds.


The hook from the engine hoist is WAY too high above the engine. I make it a point to shorten the chain as much as possible, and then bolt the chain around the hook so the chain can't slide through the hook, tipping the engine forward or backward. I don't know how you'd secure a seat-belt around the hook. My hook ends-up about 6--8 inches above the intake manifold. (Carb or TBI comes off, first.)

That's the dirty secret of cheap engine hoists--the only reason they can claim a "2-ton" rating is because the boom is so short there's little leverage on the hydraulic ram. Makes the overall cost of the engine hoist less, too. It also means they can't lift very high; and they can be made of thin steel for lower shipping weight.


All of it, I think. The V8 mounts will be more forward, about where the four bolts are that hold the plate to the frame. The rubber cushion assembly goes on the frame instead of the engine, and the all-steel brackets bolt to the engine instead of the frame.

The V-8 rubber cushion for the 4WD have a step in the bottom, formed to match the frame. The aftermarket versions are putrid junk.


You're fixing-up the V6?

Haul it to a car-wash, use the warm, soapy, high-pressure water to spray the garf off of the engine. You'll want to prevent water entry into the engine, of course.


Got radiator hoses to fit the new radiator?

To answer some of these question:

I don't know what swirl port is. Do I want to? The machine shops says that the heads are sodium filled and already have the hardened valve seats. He mentioned that only the "bigger trucks" would have had that (this engine is from a K2500).

Anyway, the heads are at the machine shop getting cleaned and checked. Nothing more. I'm not putting $$$ into garbage. The valve stems are getting cleaned and checked, as well. If they are straight, I'll use grinding compound and a valve lapping tool. If not, I'll replace just the ones that are bent.

Yes, every last one of the valve seals was hardened and cracked garbage. The springs look like Hell, too.

Now as for the hook for the engine hoist being too high - I know it is. Don't care. It did the job.

I don't know how you'd secure a seat-belt around the hook.

Tie either end of the seat belt to a hook point on the engine, throw the middle of the belt inside the hook. It's not rocket science, it's DIY wrenching.



I'm not really "fixing up" the V6. It just needs to pass inspection. That means that it has to be leak-free so the tree hugging PA demorats can have their cake and eat it, too.

Car wash? LOL! I have a 2500 psi pressure washer and a perfectly good driveway.

Ah yes! The V8 vs V6 radiator hoses! I do have the top hose but not the bottom. Thanks for the reminder.

Oh and here's some food for over-thinking things: I don't have the "correct" emissions sticker for the V8 engine with A.I.R. It's a different setup from '89 to '94. Not many places around here will give a crap about that, seeing as how it's a pre-OBDII vehicle, but it's a discrepancy, nonetheless.

But it's ok to give me a hard time about my 76 T/A not having the "correct" catalytic converters.... a55holes.

/rant.

 

[yevgenievich]

Are these swirl-port heads? If so, they're turds.


Leaking valve stem seals, perhaps coupled to poor-quality (non-Top Tier) gasoline.


The hook from the engine hoist is WAY too high above the engine. I make it a point to shorten the chain as much as possible, and then bolt the chain around the hook so the chain can't slide through the hook, tipping the engine forward or backward. I don't know how you'd secure a seat-belt around the hook. My hook ends-up about 6--8 inches above the intake manifold. (Carb or TBI comes off, first.)

That's the dirty secret of cheap engine hoists--the only reason they can claim a "2-ton" rating is because the boom is so short there's little leverage on the hydraulic ram. Makes the overall cost of the engine hoist less, too. It also means they can't lift very high; and they can be made of thin steel for lower shipping weight.


All of it, I think. The V8 mounts will be more forward, about where the four bolts are that hold the plate to the frame. The rubber cushion assembly goes on the frame instead of the engine, and the all-steel brackets bolt to the engine instead of the frame.

The V-8 rubber cushion for the 4WD have a step in the bottom, formed to match the frame. The aftermarket versions are putrid junk.

You must be registered for see images attach

Good luck finding decent motor mount cushions. Some guys claim to have put the Energy Suspension Polyurethane cushions into the OEM steel shells, but I couldn't get 'em to fit. They're not made like the original rubber cushions, they're HUGE, and the steel inserts are positioned at the wrong angle.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You're fixing-up the V6?

Haul it to a car-wash, use the warm, soapy, high-pressure water to spray the garf off of the engine. You'll want to prevent water entry into the engine, of course.


Got radiator hoses to fit the new radiator?

K truck mounts i believe take 3-1152R. At least that was the part number that worked for me

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I have ZERO idea why Shurkey keeps claiming the tabs are at the wrong angle, when I have clearly posted a picture that shows the tabs are in perfect alignment with the motor mount clamshells that bolt to the block. The mounts inserts can be installed upside-down. Installed per the instructions they fit perfectly and engine installation is a breeze compared to the factory tangs..

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[tayto]

for anyone interested I recently bought Anchor motor mounts for my squarebody and they were made in USA and seemed to have thicker gauge steel than ones i've seen in the past. p/n 2292 2wd application. maybe the ones for gmt400 are the same.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Boy.... I should have stayed the Hell in bed today. I can't seem to catch a break on this engine. I tore down only the essentials to prep the engine for pressure washing. Behold, the passenger side of the block, covered in 33 year old 5W-30, with no clear place it could be leaking from.

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Then, I noticed the motor mount is TOAST, so I took them both off.

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Well, then I thought EFF IT and took the clutch off, too, because it was being a PITA to just cover it up... and I wanted to inspect it while I'm in here. Someone's been here already. It's not that bad - and it's not OEM.

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Seems I can only post 5 pics per post, so.....

 

[DeCaff2007]

The flywheel doesn't look bad, either.

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Not perfect, but serviceable, and the same flywheel and clutch WILL fit on the V8. I read somewhere that it won't fit. Part numbers don't lie. They are the same. They will be getting swapped to the donor V8.

I will be replacing this rear main seal while I'm at it. It's a onesie lol so I might as well take care of it.

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So here I go, all ready to fire up the pressure washer and have at it. I pulled the rope about 17 times and all I got was blue smoke. WTF? See that water in the driveway? My Wife JUST used it to wash her car and now it won't start. The engine on the pressure washer was still hot from being used and now nothing. I get on my knees to check things out and LOL I kneeled in a puddle of fuel. The carburetor picked THAT MOMENT to fail and has to be rebuilt. Fortunately, the rebuild kit was very easy to find so I ordered one. It should be here in a few days.

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[PlayingWithTBI]

I don't have the "correct" emissions sticker for the V8 engine with A.I.R. It's a different setup from '89 to '94.

Your 89's sticker is different than an 88's? If it helps any, here's one from my 88

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[DeCaff2007]

Your 89's sticker is different than an 88's? If it helps any, here's one from my 88

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I'm sorry, I couldn't have worded that any weirder. The sticker will be incorrect because when the V8 swap is done, it will show the info for a 94 V8 automatic. The vehicle will still be an 89 5-speed. Still has A.I.R. but the V8 exhaust manifolds don't have those 1/2" inch tubes coming out of them.