4.3L to ?? swap.

[L31MaxExpress]

I can pull the freeze plugs again and wash it out. I have a whole box full of them. My issue is moving that engine around. It's HEAVY.

I used Permatex Red anaerobic gasket maker to seal the freeze plugs. I've used it many times w/out an issue.

As for the engine-side mount, I know I've read on THIS FORUM that they are different from the V6. As for there being more than one design, please clarify?

Let me tell you something about the parts stores around here - and more specifically the employees. They are uneducated and self-entitled. If the computer (or Lying Google) can't tell them what they need to get for a customer, then they (the employees) just make some excuse and put their noses in their smart (matter of opinion) device. Ignorant countermen is a sore spot for me. I'm not going into that story right now.

However, on that same topic, there is an individual around here at Advance Auto that won't even look up a part. He'll put you on hold until you hang up and if you do come into the store, he will take your year/make/model and simply say "We don't have it". I asked him what his problem is one day. He didn't verbally reply, but the look he gave me clearly said "a$$holes like you."

Anyway, what engine mount bracket design do I need? I'm heading to the junkyard in the morning to see if I can score some oil cooler lines and maybe a radiator. NOT paying Auto Zone's nor Advance Auto's prices for that.

Oh, and from time to time, SBC headers show up at the yard. If I could snag a set of those, I'll weld an O2 bung into them and use those for some nice dual exhaust action

Your best bet would be a set from the same chassis configuration you are swapping the engine into. Would also be helpful to have the stand-offs from the frame. Some of the vehicles used a triangular shaped shim between the engine and clamshell. Others such as 4x4s have a shim with a drop down under it to bolt the brace bars.

OER 332648 1972-81 Engine Mounting Bracket, RH or LH, Each

Correct reproduction of the original engine mount bracket designed for use on 1972-81 Camaro models with small block engines. Each bracket is manufactured in quality stamped steel to OE specifications assuring a quality fit and appearance. The RH and LH brackets are interchangeable. Sold...

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I have swapped both a GMT400 and an Express van from a 4.3L to a V8.

On the Express van the 4.3L sits on the same mounts with the front of the engine in the same position relative to a 350. Transmission is moved forward and the trans crossmember is reversed in its mounting.

On the trucks the V6 and V8 sit in the same position relative to the bellhousing and the engine mounts move forward on the V8.

2wd V8 mounts look like this for the most part. On a V8 truck they bolt straight to the frame, van has that weird riser pad under the mount.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I see where you all are going with this. It makes sense now. Same chassis configuration meaning V8 4x4 PICKUP TRUCK. Not a van, not a camaro, and especially not someone's project car that they gave up on and junked it.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Oh and I already know what you all are going to say when you see the pic below this text. Save any opinions you may have. I'm working on a budget here.

My only comment would be to take that block to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed before you build it, especially if you're concerned about the "milkshake" behind the freeze plugs. I absolutely love doing it low-budget, but you have to know where to skimp. I got burned on one block, and I have every block checked now.

 

[DeCaff2007]

My only comment would be to take that block to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed before you build it, especially if you're concerned about the "milkshake" behind the freeze plugs. I absolutely love doing it low-budget, but you have to know where to skimp. I got burned on one block, and I have every block checked now.

I definitely understand the concern there.

So, the only thing I can offer here is.... depending how things go in the next couple of days, tearing it down to a bare block *sigh...* and having it cleaned/checked just may be an option.

 

[DeCaff2007]

To elaborate on the above post, tearing the block down and sending it off to be checked IS an option, now that I have a GMT800 sitting in my driveway. Do I have the time to get this done? Well, today is my only day off. Work is hectic lately. Weekends are usually reserved making everyone else happy. So, now it's a coin flip if I want to tear the block down and take the deep dive into the engine (which will probably take me straight through to next summer. ugh...) or clean is as best I can, put it back together, and drop it between the fenders.

Keep in mind, this is by far not my only project, automotive or otherwise.

Blah... I need coffee.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I started pulling the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and some other onesies and twosies. The intake came right off. It was almost too easy. The gaskets were clearly bad.

The exhaust manifolds gave me a much harder time. While I didn't break any bolts off inside the heads, I'm not sure I want to put those same manifolds back on, i.e., maybe headers? Maybe.

Here's my issue: Should I pull the heads or not? Here's 6 of the 8 spark plugs, in no particular order:

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While they don't look terrible, here's the one that's making me question pulling the heads, from cylinder #7. Also, this same plug is from one of the cylinders that had that nasty milkshake looking garbage behind the freeze plug.

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I'm not liking how that spark plug looks. Again, pull the heads, or clean and reassemble?

 

[jjester6000]

I've always wanted to see a 250 inline 6 swapped into one of these trucks. It would bolt right in using square body motor mount brackets.

Unfortunately only people in south America got thw inline 6's in gmt400s.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Well, while that's not happening, the Wife and I took the deep dive into the SBC today. It was against my better judgement, however, most Youtube videos show that it's better to dive in and find nothing, than to not dive in and find something only after the engine is installed.

In this case, the most we found was a bit of excessive wear on the cylinder 7 rod bearing and what looks like overheating on the piston face. All other cylinders looked ok. The rod bearings were to show just normal wear, and the main bearings looked holy crap flawless.

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I don't have a trained eye for crankshaft wear, but I'm guessing this isn't bad.

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Wifey removing the hydraulic lifters via the bottom of the block.

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Off to the machine shop next. Gents, the only reason we went this far with the long block to begin with is because I don't need to rely on my RCSB for winter transportation anymore. I do, however, want it on the road as soon as possible. This means it better not be stuck at the machine shop for months on end.

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Everything is going to get cleaned and checked, including the heads, which I'm tearing down next (meaning after work tomorrow lol).

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Now, time to find some decent main, conrod, cam bearings, a timing chain, and perhaps a warmed up cam. The cam I removed today was unremarkable. I see no reason to replace it... but NOW would be the time to install any upgrades.

 

[Erik the Awful]

That crank journal looks beautiful to me.

Hammering the lifters out? Yikes!

That's my ideal block right there. Four-bolt mains and roller cam provisions! If you don't have the roller cam parts, hit up Pull-A-Part and nab some!