4.3 tbi v6 cam and lifter questions (1992)

[Treyes]

Got myself a 1992 4.3 tbi single cab as my first truck and it does its job, but as a highschooler i want it to be as fast and loud as it can be so im looking to buy a cam and anything else i can afford but i need yalls help figuring put what is best for the money so any recommendations im all ears and if you have a similar setup let me know what your running and the horsepower it has. Thanks (no swaps not enough money yet)

 

[TheAutumnWind]

You could swap some 1.6 rockers in there for a little bump. Otherwise doesn't make sense to spend time and money hot rodding a 4.3 tbi. Gm v8s are dirt cheap

 

[Erik the Awful]

The free stuff: (you probably won't feel much seat-of-the-pants difference)
Cut the plastic restrictor out of your intake - if the V6 has it.
Widen the plug gap to .040.
Advance the timing a few degrees - I don't know what's recommended on 4.3s.

The cheap stuff:
Do a thorough tune-up.
Like AutumnWind said, put in some 1.6:1 rockers. You'll need self-aligning. Twelve of these should be under $100 with shipping. Pay attention to detail when doing your adjustment.
https://www.kmjperformance.com/i-24...s-1-6-long-slot-late-model-self-aligning.html

The real stuff:
Wanna be faster? Go autocrossing and get as many driving tips as you can. Bad drivers in fast cars are slow. I've seen a Viper get absolutely waxed by a kid in a Miata.
Exhaust. If you have welding skills you can build your own for under $200.

The adult in me says:
Don't be a dumb@$$ showing off at lunchtime. The graduating class behind me had four kids die in a nasty accident, showing off.
Make sure you have good tires and brakes. It's cheaper to buy tires and brakes than a new front clip.
Loud's overrated and tinnitus sucks.

 

[Schurkey]

Putting money into "hot-rodding" a V-6 in a full-size truck is a sure path to disappointment and insanity.

Fix "Safety" items FIRST: Brakes, steering, suspension. If this is a 2WD, I bet the front wheel bearings have never been repacked. Keep in mind that the rear brakes were garbage when new, and they're not getting better with age. They're practically guaranteed to be WAY out of adjustment. If the control arm bushings are original, they're guaranteed to be at least partially-failed or worse. Ball joints and tires and steering linkage are more important than rocker arms. The circuit-boards for the rear taillights/turnsignals/backup lights are a known, epidemic problem. Check voltage at the headlight connector with the engine RUNNING, I bet you're at 11-something volts when you want to be at 12.8--13.2 for each light. Not lower, not higher. And "zero" volts on the ground wire for each light.

AFTER the brakes, steering, suspension, and general safety items have been verified, get the engine to run right--no weak cylinders, no faulty fuel system, no deferred maintenance, no "codes", no plugged catalyst.

Save your money for a real engine, and the heavier-duty transmission you'll need when you blow the original.

Loud's overrated and tinnitus sucks.

Not just "yes". HELL, YES!

The LAST thing most teen-agers need is to have their vehicle noisy enough to attract the Police. You'll have MORE fun with less risk if the vehicle is quiet. And a 90-degree V-6 with loud exhaust sounds terrible anyway.