1967 Dodge D100

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PlayingWithTBI

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We've got it planned as 24' x 50' (over 24' wide needs extra bracing and adds 6k to the cost.) In my mind I have one bay for a 4 post lift to store 2 cars (Dodgey and my Vette). One bay is a 2 post lift, one bay is a "dirty" work area, and one is a man cave/tool storage/clean work area.
Sound like a good plan. My advice, go as big as you can, you'll regret it if you don't. I went with a 30' X 60', with my woodworking equipment and projects spread out all over, wish I had gone 40' X 60' :rolleyes:

I should have gone with insulation too but, I already have ~$45K in it and I did all of the electrical myself. It adds up fast. I do have 3 roof vents (not the garbage whirlybirds) which can be opened and closed from the floor with chains going to them. Got 2 - 16' X 10' industrial grade garage doors with electric openers. They help quite a bit with cross ventilation too. HTH
 

618 Syndicate

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^^^AND, how thick the slab is. I don't have a hoist - yet but, I had them pour the slab 6" thick plus, it won't crack as easily. 6 years later and no visible cracks! (concrete always cracks, you just have to control them) :waytogo:
I'd do 6" heated slab slick finish over a moisture barrier if it were me. Where op is he won't need heated, but for a lift the rest holds true.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I'd do 6" heated slab slick finish over a moisture barrier if it were me. Where op is he won't need heated, but for a lift the rest holds true.
Yeah, mine has the slick slab with wet saw joints and moisture barrier. The whole floor is damned near flat and level. When watering it down, there were a couple puddles not much deeper than ~1/8".

Here, you can see the stain from one puddle in the lower left and the wet saw marks. BTW this building has 12' eaves with a girt at 4' and 8'.
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0xDEADBEEF

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How big a slab? What pressure/mix concrete? Any additives? Rebar? Same guys clearing as finishing?

Just the building is 24x50, but there's a big area around that and driveway to get to it. That was for clearing too. My lot is like a damned forest.

I'm going to look for a concrete sub and get a second opinion.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I think I'm a couple of weeks away from the weather being nice enough to work on the truck, so I ordered some parts. Got that Wilwood pedal assembly and 3 master cylinders. I don't really need a dual master braking system, but it was actually cheaper than a tandem master and proportioning valve setup.

I need to figure out what I'm going to do with the truck long term. I'm thinking about removing the turbo because it's useless in this chassis. I could use AC a lot more than the turbo. :)
 

Jerryred94silvy

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I think I'm a couple of weeks away from the weather being nice enough to work on the truck, so I ordered some parts. Got that Wilwood pedal assembly and 3 master cylinders. I don't really need a dual master braking system, but it was actually cheaper than a tandem master and proportioning valve setup.

I need to figure out what I'm going to do with the truck long term. I'm thinking about removing the turbo because it's useless in this chassis. I could use AC a lot more than the turbo. :)
If you really don’t need that turbo…I know a guy that could maybe find a home for it:wink:
 

0xDEADBEEF

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If you really don’t need that turbo…I know a guy that could maybe find a home for it:wink:

Turbo is nothing special (made in China), it was all the other stuff that was expensive, but I think I already have a home for all of it (if I actually remove it).
 

Orpedcrow

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Turbo is nothing special (made in China), it was all the other stuff that was expensive, but I think I already have a home for all of it (if I actually remove it).
There’s someone here that just picked up a 2-door Tahoe, they made a comment on it being low on power…

:driver::naughty:
 
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