97 K1500 DD/Overlander

[mdnky]

04.13.2024 (cont...cont...)

Well...now that the bracket was off, that meant it was time to do the fun (NOT) part of this project. Cleaning up this mess...

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I used the plasma cutter on a lower setting (30A/55PSI) to trim a few of the bigger remnants.

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Not wanting to accidentally cut the frame with the plasma cutter, I switched to the grinder and the ol' wheel-O-death. I attempted to keep the grinder as parallel as possible to the frame while cutting into the remnants. Then I used the air hammer with a flat chisel installed to peel it up. Basically repeated that process a bunch of times, until the remnants of the bracket were gone. Went through 4 wheel-O-deaths, though to be fair 3 were already 'used' and the last one (new) is about 1/2 way now.

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Luckily, I managed to do that without completely destroying the good part of the frame, though there were a few 'DOH!'s here and there. I might fill them with a few quick welds, or maybe not. They're not very deep and will be directly behind the very strong reinforcement section, so it might not be worth the effort or time.

I used the grinder and a 1/4" grinding wheel to clean up the remaining bits of weld and bracket, as well as the mess I made cutting the bracket off. I also ground down a few of the rosette welds and welds from the prior work, so the reinforcement can sit flush. I finished cleaning the area with the grinder, first with the wire cup and then the wire wheel.

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[mdnky]

04.13.2024 (cont...cont...cont...)

Did a quick test fit on the reinforcement section. Had to remove the middle cab mount, so I could get enough slack to jack up the body a bit for the reinforcement to clear the rear cab edge. The initial try with the 15mm socket and the breaker bar was not successful, but it did provide the clearance needed to hammer on the 14mm impact socket. It actually came off somewhat easily after that using the breaker bar, then a 1/2" ratchet.

Good news is I'll only need to trim a very small part of the reinforcement I did on the frame last year.

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[mdnky]

04.13.2024 (cont...cont...cont...cont...)

Finished out the day by clamping the spring hanger to the frame and cleaning it with the grinder using a wire cup and wire wheel.

I haven't treated it with Corroseal and paint yet, as I'm going the junkyard tomorrow and the ever-so-small change that I'm able to find one in better shape. This one isn't horrible, but it's far from great. Probably worth holding off for a day, just in case.

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[Laredo]

Looking good. Regarding the preparation of the frame in Post #121, do you not own any flap disks?

 

[mdnky]

Looking good. Regarding the preparation of the frame in Post #121, do you not own any flap disks?

Have plenty of them, just not the best option in this situation. The steel in that area is already too thin, so I'd rather not eat away any more than absolutely necessary. The wire wheel is fine for the rust/paint, just takes a bit more time and doesn't remove the good steel. The only parts needing any grinding were a few small welds from the bracket and some repairs I previously made.

I'll hit the outline of the weld area with a flap disc, but I'm waiting to do that until just before.

 

[mdnky]

04.14.2024

Hit the local u-pull type junkyard. They had a decent selection of GMT400s and 800s. Also had a really nice baby blue '76 with an almost perfect body (no rust in usual areas, good paint, good frame) minus a crunched RF fender. Sadly, someone had done some selective surgery to the cab pillars with a sawzall.

Found a 96 2500 with front and rear spare tire crossmembers in decent shape, so I went ahead and grabbed them. Strongly considered grabbing the leaf springs, but I didn't have a sawzall with me and definitely didn't feel like fighting those U-Bolts. Might go back for them and that center spare tire crosmember. Then again, drilling out rivets doesn't seem like a very fun way to spend a day, plus it's not in that great of shape. Better than my current one, but it might be worth just spending the $120 on that new Dorman one.

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Did manage to find a decent complete under-hood storage box by pulling parts from two trucks. Needed a bit of cleaning, but it'll do...if I decide to put it in. Still debating on using the current tray for an auxiliary battery.

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Went ahead and threw a coat of Corroseal on that front spring hanger. I'll give it a heavy coat of satin black enamel tomorrow evening.

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[HotWheelsBurban]

04.14.2024

Hit the local u-pull type junkyard. They had a decent selection of GMT400s and 800s. Also had a really nice baby blue '76 with an almost perfect body (no rust in usual areas, good paint, good frame) minus a crunched RF fender. Sadly, someone had done some selective surgery to the cab pillars with a sawzall.

Found a 96 2500 with front and rear spare tire crossmembers in decent shape, so I went ahead and grabbed them. Strongly considered grabbing the leaf springs, but I didn't have a sawzall with me and definitely didn't feel like fighting those U-Bolts. Might go back for them and that center spare tire crosmember. Then again, drilling out rivets doesn't seem like a very fun way to spend a day, plus it's not in that great of shape. Better than my current one, but it might be worth just spending the $120 on that new Dorman one.

You must be registered for see images attach

Did manage to find a decent complete under-hood storage box by pulling parts from two trucks. Needed a bit of cleaning, but it'll do...if I decide to put it in. Still debating on using the current tray for an auxiliary battery.

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Went ahead and threw a coat of Corroseal on that front spring hanger. I'll give it a heavy coat of satin black enamel tomorrow evening.

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Good to hear you had some success at the yard. I've noticed that the storage boxes are easier to find,than the lids, because the hinges get cracked and break. I've also seen how the boxes can get warped in the underhood heat, and that doesn't help hinge longevity. The one on Rawhide is a little bit womper jawed so I have to be careful how I open and close it.

 

[99xcss4]

I've noticed that the storage boxes are easier to find,than the lids, because the hinges get cracked and break. I've also seen how the boxes can get warped in the underhood heat, and that doesn't help hinge longevity. The one on Rawhide is a little bit womper jawed so I have to be careful how I open and close it.

did not know that about hinge I would think the lid would break first also pretty interesting to me that your 3500 has the storage box and not a second battery tray all though I was equally shocked to to 2 second battery trays in in a 90 or 91 1500 and a 99 classic 1500 they did not have the cables for them though

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

did not know that about hinge I would think the lid would break first also pretty interesting to me that your 3500 has the storage box and not a second battery tray all though I was equally shocked to to 2 second battery trays in in a 90 or 91 1500 and a 99 classic 1500 they did not have the cables for them though

The box was standard equipment on the 3500s according to what I've read. There is no option code for it on the VIN number report. The second battery was standard on the 6.5 diesel trucks, and optional on the gassers.

 

[99xcss4]

thanks for the info like the second battery tray for the gas trucks I thought the storage box was also optional imho a good question would be why did they not come out with the storage box sooner even though I would rather have the second battery tray that box is still quite useful if you ask me I wonder how many of the gas trucks that came with the second battery tray actually came with a second battery as well