97 K1500 DD/Overlander

[mdnky]

Good to hear you had some success at the yard. I've noticed that the storage boxes are easier to find,than the lids, because the hinges get cracked and break. I've also seen how the boxes can get warped in the underhood heat, and that doesn't help hinge longevity. The one on Rawhide is a little bit womper jawed so I have to be careful how I open and close it.

Yeah, they actually had a bunch trucks with them, but more than half were missing lids. Figured either someone took them, or possibly they got lost when someone checked what was inside. Tons of plastic parts like that all over the ground (fuse covers, shrouds, etc.) in every aisle.

The first truck I found was missing the lid. The next one had the lid, but the box broke while I was trying to remove the nut under the fender well. Went back to the first truck missing the lid and grabbed that box.

I looked at a few other brands of vehicles and was heading towards checkout when I noticed one of the hinge tabs was cracked on the lid. After a quick recheck, found a good lid on yet another truck. That one was missing the grill/rad/core...wish I would have found that first.

Pretty sure they didn't charge me for the box actually. Receipt only shows 31.48 for the two 'frame brackets' (crossmembers) and 4.19 for the dipstick for that C1500.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Yeah, they actually had a bunch trucks with them, but more than half were missing lids. Figured either someone took them, or possibly they got lost when someone checked what was inside. Tons of plastic parts like that all over the ground (fuse covers, shrouds, etc.) in every aisle.

The first truck I found was missing the lid. The next one had the lid, but the box broke while I was trying to remove the nut under the fender well. Went back to the first truck missing the lid and grabbed that box.

I looked at a few other brands of vehicles and was heading towards checkout when I noticed one of the hinge tabs was cracked on the lid. After a quick recheck, found a good lid on yet another truck. That one was missing the grill/rad/core...wish I would have found that first.

Pretty sure they didn't charge me for the box actually. Receipt only shows 31.48 for the two 'frame brackets' (crossmembers) and 4.19 for the dipstick for that C1500.

Yep I've had that happen at the yards too. Six trucks with boxes and only two lids. In one instance, the truck I saw on the online inventory listings had the hood up in its picture. Then when I got there, that truck had front end damage, incurred in placing it on the row. Ruined a good front clip, and the box....
And it's the luck of the draw whether you get charged for everything.

 

[mdnky]

04.15.2024

Started the afternoon by throwing a heavy coat of satin black enamel on the spring hanger, then left it in the sun to 'bake'.

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The next step was to get rid of the rivet remains still stuck in the frame from the hanger removal. They didn't want to come out yesterday with the air hammer.

Interesting side note: an air hammer/chisel doesn't like the compressor's regulator being left at the low pressure setting (55PSI-60PSI) you use to protect a tool like a plasma cutter. DOH!

They came out very quickly after the regulator was adjusted up...one even decided to leave a parting gift (chipped paint) on the gas tank.

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The bottom right one had to be drilled, since it was covered out back by a plate. The first three sizes (1/16—>1/8—>3/16) went by without an issue, but the rivet started to spin in the hole with the next bit (5/16).

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[mdnky]

04.15.2025 (cont...)

Took a few minutes and built a simple a jack extension from some scrap wood and deck screws. This will let me lift the body just enough to clear the frame reinforcement, while not being in the way.

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Ended up cutting and punching the rivets out on the gas tank crossmember and the shock mount. I also pre-trimmed the previous work a bit with the angle grinder, based on marking I made during yesterday's very quick trial fit.

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Using the BFH, I persuaded the reinforcement almost all the way into position. Definitely a tight fit, but everything seems to line up very well so far. Didn't knock it all the way on, as I still need to do some prep and painting on the frame and the reinforcement...and I wasn't sure I'd be able to get it off.

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[mdnky]

04.15.2025 (cont...cont...)

I cleaned the inner side of the reinforcement with brake parts cleaner, followed by a couple passes with mineral spirits, then finally alcohol.

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I put four good coats of 2000° Primer just on the newly clean inside section. I left it to sit in the sun and dry.

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Back at the truck, I used brake parts cleaner to get rid of any remaining cutting oil from the drilling I did earlier. Then I used abrasive discs, followed by a wire wheel, to clean the area that'll be covered by the reinforcement. I don't know exactly how long this took, but it definitely was a while, until I decided it was as good as it would get.

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I wiped the frame down with mineral spirits, followed by alcohol. Then I used the remaining 2000° Primer (about 1/2 can) to coat everything that was bare metal. There's a slight chance of rain over night, and a fairly decent chance of showers on Wednesday. I can easily clean the primer from the weld areas when that time comes with a quick pass of the wire wheel.

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Donato's (pizza place) was running a 'Tax Day' promo, so it's steak hoagies for dinner tonight. Can't get those outside the Cincinnati area, so might as well take advantage of it while I can. I also need to contemplate making a drastic change to the plans for the truck. Noticed a few troubling things, which means I'm definitely going to need to do a bit more work than planned. Time to sleep on that.

 

[Salty K1500]

Nice work, I love seeing you bring this truck back from the brink.

I'm interested to see how that rust buster frame patch turns out. I've got one hole in my frame that I need to address, but it's up near the firewall just forward of the joint where the boxed section meets c-channel.

Also I'm sure you're aware, but did you clean off all the brake cleaner and residue from the frame? Chlorinated brake cleaner puts off a very unhealthy gas (phosgene) when heated from something like a welder. I didn't know about this until I just happened to read it after about a year of welding on my truck.

 

[mdnky]

Nice work, I love seeing you bring this truck back from the brink.

Thanks!

I'm interested to see how that rust buster frame patch turns out. I've got one hole in my frame that I need to address, but it's up near the firewall just forward of the joint where the boxed section meets c-channel.

I haven't used their stuff before, but I know a few Jeep guys who have. Based on what I've heard from them, and what I've seen from this piece I have, RB definitely makes a nice product. They definitely seem to be more refined than the Safe-T-Cap products I've seen. There's plenty of holes and features on this midsection, and they all seem to be in the correct place. Definitely fits a bit tight, but that's exactly how something like this should be IMO.

If it's near the front cab mount, I had to do my right side last year (still needs some inside work on the back side) and it probably wouldn't hurt for me to do the left side as well as a Just In Case type of repair. I don't believe RB has anything for that area yet though (ETA for the front pieces is 07/15/2024). That's solve another issue...but makes the choices discussed below a bit muddier.

The project is on hold, as it now looks like I'll be needing to do the other side as well. I noticed some troubling signs of rot and possible buckling on the left side at the forward hanger a few days ago. I'm not sure if I just missed it last year, it wasn't as visible yet, or it's just recent damage.

The entire rear part isn't in the best shape and a bit thinner than I remember. I originally planned on replacing the frame, so the prior rear reinforcement work was just meant to keep everything together for a little while. So, right now I'm seriously contemplating one of three choices:

• Order the left side mid-frame reinforcement and source the back half of a frame from the u-pull-it. This has the advantage of having the brackets and crossmembers already (significant savings). I could then build cutting templates that bolt into the spring hanger locations, then cut both sides of the truck and the replacement just forward of said mounts. My plasma leaves a ~1mm gap after cutting, which would be perfect to weld. Both welded joints would be reinforced with the RustBuster sections on the outside as over-kill fish plates. I'd definitely bring in someone with more welding experience for that. I'd also have to ensure everything is measured a billion times and aligned properly, which while not impossible is a royal pain. A bit more price-wise than buying a new frame, but probably the cheapest option overall.
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• Order the left side mid-frame reinforcement, both rear cab mounts, the rear X-members (spare mid & fuel rear), and shock mounts. Source about 7' of good frame from the u-pull-it, to cut down the center and weld to the bottom of the current frame. Alternatively, source two lengths of the frame and just cut the upper portion of C off. Most expensive option, with challenges due to added thickness and the previous work done, plus a host of potential fitment issues.
• Replace the frame...best option by far in the long run and the cheapest initially, but very time consuming and bound to have loads of extra needed parts and hassles.

The local u-pull-it had a 96' 2500 that might work really well for the first two options. The majority of the frame looks decent, with surface rust only. One of the shock mounts had damage, but they're relatively inexpensive to replace. Definitely MUCH better and thicker than the one I have now. Might be worth grabbing a cordless grinder and wire wheel and making the trip back to test a few ares just to verify the condition. Could get it sandblasted, or spend a few days cleaning everything with the wire wheel and abrasive pads.

Also I'm sure you're aware, but did you clean off all the brake cleaner and residue from the frame? Chlorinated brake cleaner puts off a very unhealthy gas (phosgene) when heated from something like a welder. I didn't know about this until I just happened to read it after about a year of welding on my truck.

The cleaner I use (usually) non-chlorinated, as I'm not a fan of the burning the chlorinated stuff causes. I also wipe the area afterwards with mineral spirits/acetone, then a final wipe with alcohol. So any residue should be long gone.

 

[Salty K1500]

Looks like you got it figured out, I look forward to seeing your repairs. I was lucky that the rear section of my frame was just a little pitted, so no major work back there for me. And thanks for linking the rust buster front section, I was hoping they would come out with that. Probably the way I'll go for my repair.

 

[Laredo]

If you can afford to do it (as you indicated, the cost of ancillaries will add up quickly), I would be inclined to select the third option.