1967 Dodge D100

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0xDEADBEEF

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Welp, no takers on the slant and I ain't got room to store it out of the elements, so I took it to the scrappers. Darn thing was 840 lbs with the trans and all that attached. Got $50 for it, which is almost what I was asking for it on FBM.

I figure the LS with turbo and all that stuff won't be any heavier than the slant it replaced.

Made $120 on scrap today with 3 loads of crap that was in my yard. LOL.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Motor mounts are out. Steering gear is finally out. 55 year old hardware really doesn't want to come off. Rust works better than loctite, LOL.

I can weld in the frame stiffening plates next.

Dude with the blowed up LS3 has now ghosted me. I don't understand how people can agree to a price and a date and then can't even be bothered to let you know they changed their mind.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Welp, I caught my second case of Covid after my previous post. Stayed in bed Labor Day and missed the next day of work. Nothing got done on the truck all week until today. I don't have my full strength back yet, and had to come in to cool off a lot. Anyways, I got the front suspension off. I debated leaving it on until I get the QA1 kit in my hands, but it's just going to make the engine swap a lot easier to yank it all now.

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0xDEADBEEF

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Feeling about 98% normal now. I was able to work as long as I wanted to anyways.

I'm glad I went with QA1 because this reminded me that I am not a welder. It'll hold though. I think the motor mounts will get welded on about 2/3 of the way towards the back of that plate.

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0xDEADBEEF

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Starting to work out the motor mount sitchyation. I wish that dude hadn't ghosted me because an empty aluminum block sure would be nice right about now.

The mount is placed about right vertically and in length. This gives me about 25" to the hood which should be plenty of room for the Hi Ram. Also gives about 1.5" between the heads and the firewall. I may scooch it forward a bit more. I'm pretty sure this isn't the last time the engine will be going in and it would be nice to have some room to get at the bellhousing bolts and what not from up top.

It sticks out too far into the engine bay about 4". I think what I am going to do is cut the old mounts into 2 pieces so I can get the width the same as the LS mounts and it will also let me make it shorter.

I'm also going to plate the bottom straight across the frame for more strength since I don't weld all that great. I think I need to pony up for a 220v circuit in the garage.

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0xDEADBEEF

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Score. I'm the proud owner of a blowed up 6.2 block. Had to sweeten the deal, but it's going to be a big time saver and I can probably scrap it for close to what I have into it.

Guy was saying the oil pan is worth $1200 if it wasn't broken. Sheee-it, I might have to teach myself how to TIG weld aluminum.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I can't help but think about fixing this block. I watched a video where Steve Morris tig welded up a busted block that will see over 2000 HP.

Texas-Speed has this block new for $2500 on their web site. I'm only into it for $200 so far. I guess I should open it up before I get my hopes up.

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stutaeng

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JB "weld" that and ship it! LOL

So it's a complete engine? I thought it was just the block.

I think I already asked you this before, but what welder are you using? I've been using this little Century Inverter Flux core welder I bought for misc. stuff about and up to 1/4" or so, and seems to get enough heat in there.

I've got a Hobart Ironman 210 (flux and 75/25 Mig setup) and a Dilalarc 250A stick but the little guy is so light and portable.
 
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0xDEADBEEF

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JB "weld" that and ship it! LOL

So it's a complete engine? I thought it was just the block.

It's not complete. No heads, cam, lifters, front timing cover. Also missing 2 rods and pistons, LOL.

I think whoever pulled it just didn't want to mess with what is inside. The story I got was that the owner shifted into 1st instead of 3rd.
 
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