1967 Dodge D100

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Moparmat2000

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Nice build. Heres an idea for you that would work. I did this on a 1963 dodge town panel for a guy. The 63 dodge townie is 114" wheelbase. Same leaf spring front end. Same exact frame under it as yours. We found a 1979 short bed standard cab dodge pickup and used its frame. Same frame all the way up from body change in 1973 all the way thru 1993. This should make it easy to find one. Avoid a ramcharger or trailduster. Those are like a SWB 1970s bllazer, and are 108" wheelbase

73 up its 115". It has independent front end and big disc brakes. 12" rotors, and 2.75" piston calipers. This requires a 15" rim minimum. A ford 9" from a late 1960s mustang around 67-68 is the exact width and is a direct bolt in, its also the same bolt pattern as a dodge truck. 5 bolt 4.5" circle. That extra 1" in frame length shouldn't be a big deal as the front wheel openings are huge. The steering box will be a Saginaw box, and adapting hoses to it from a GM shouldn't be too difficult.

Plus if you find a V8 or newer V6 frame, it may be easier figuring a mount setup to to in. Slanty 6 was made I believe all the way through 1986. After that they went to a 318 derived V6. Kinda like the chevy 4.3 is a shortened 305.

The utiline short bed is the same stamping from 1955-1987. All its holes should line right up as a direct bolt in to the newer frame. How we did the cab mounts on the townie on the 1979 frame was we cut off the 79 cab mounts from the 79 frame. Made temporary spacers to support the cab giving a space between it and the new frame. Then we cut the cab mounts off the old frame, bolted them in place on the cab lining it up with the new 79 frame, then welded them in place to the new frame,. After that, we
knocked the spacers back out. I think we used 3/4" plywood strips as temp spacers.

Nice project
Hope this helps.
Matt
 
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0xDEADBEEF

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This thing is really not that bad all in all. Since it stopped suddenly all the bearings are pristine. The crank has some nicks but otherwise appears ok. I would probably get it checked out by a machine shop before running it though.

I think 2 sleeves, 2 rods, 2 pistons, a bunch of filler wire, and some time in the milling machine and it could go back to work. Maybe a future project.

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Moparmat2000

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Welding ain't all that hard. Get a lincoln weldpak 100 wire feed setup and learn on scrap. If you can solder, or braze, you can weld. On a project like that where your trying to fit the proverbial square peg in a round hole, a welder is your best friend. Along with a good compressor, and air powered cut off wheels.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Welding ain't all that hard. Get a lincoln weldpak 100 wire feed setup and learn on scrap. If you can solder, or braze, you can weld. On a project like that where your trying to fit the proverbial square peg in a round hole, a welder is your best friend. Along with a good compressor, and air powered cut off wheels.

I have a Lincoln something or other Mig/stick welder I bought at Home Depot. I can stick 2 pieces of steel together if they aren't too thin or too thick. That's good enough for motor mounts and brackets and things like that, which is all I need for this project at the moment. Hopefully after this weekend I won't be doing anymore welding on the project.
 

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Welp, it's taken me all morning to get this far. The sun started beating down on me and I was like ... nope, I'm going inside for a while.

I got one mount clamped into place ready to be tacked on. Kind of a pain because every little adjustment moves something else.

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Moparmat2000

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Welp, it's taken me all morning to get this far. The sun started beating down on me and I was like ... nope, I'm going inside for a while.

I got one mount clamped into place ready to be tacked on. Kind of a pain because every little adjustment moves something else.

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Take your time, do it right. It's harder to cut a weld back apart. Level the truck front to back. and then set your crankshaft down angle. Get a cheap magnetic angle finder. I had to do that when building up the new crossmember to stick an automatic overdrive in my 69 barracuda.

Easy to do that is lay it long ways front to back in the lifter valley. Run a piece of steel square stock front to back on top of the "china walls" on the block and mount the angle finder on that. That surface is parallel to your crank centerline

I set the block down angle on the cuda at 4° . The industry standard is anywhere between 3° and 5°. Set it at 5° and you can always shim it upwards. I used a 73 chevy pickup trans mount when I fabricated my crossmember. Nice flat pad easy to shim up. Your job is also gonna be easier if you bolt an empty trans case to it as a mock up.

Your degree of down angle is to be in relation to the chassis, not the ground the vehicle is sitting on. This is why I use spirit levels on the flats of the frame, or on the rockers of a unibody car and jack and shim the Jack stands till its level. Then set my down angle from that. I have done plenty of cars over the years. Never had an issue with driveline shudder. The one that drove me a little nuts was a 60 el camino I did with 2 piece driveshaft and a muncie 4 speed.

Hope this helps
Matt
 

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