someotherguy
Truly Awesome
Locks that use the key upside-down are advanced design: self-cleaning tumbler pins.It's just different. Like having to put your key in upside down.
It held on there for 55 years, so it stood the test of time.
Richard
1967 Dodge D100
- Thread starter 0xDEADBEEF
- Start date
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Richard
After buying AutoZone's finest 15/16 combination wrench (only $15 with a lifetime warranty LOL), I got the bellhousing unbolted from the crossmember. Problem is they used studs and I can't lift the bellhousing high enough to get it off the studs. (It hits the cab.) The crossmember is riveted to the frame and to top it off you can't remove the bellhousing from the block without pulling out the flywheel (the bolts are inside the bellhousing).
I'm not effing around with all that. So, sawzall will be used next to cut the studs off. Wish I had a torch.
I'm not effing around with all that. So, sawzall will be used next to cut the studs off. Wish I had a torch.
stutaeng
I'm Awesome
If you don't have already, get yourself an angle grinder. I do hobby metalworking and have a corded 4.5, 5, 6 & 7" grinders, and cheap Ryobi 4.5 cordless. But a long time all I had was a basic 4.5 corded grinder. I use "a" grinder all the time for all kinds of stuff.
Do you have some pictures? I'd like to see what this looks like.
Do you have some pictures? I'd like to see what this looks like.
I have 2 4.5" grinders. One is permanently for flap disc and one is permanently for cutoff wheels. I don't think I can get a grinder in there though.
Yeah, I'll get some pics. I hope to have it out Saturday morning.
HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
That's that old school Chrysler engineering!Locks that use the key upside-down are advanced design: self-cleaning tumbler pins.
Richard
YouTube to the rescue. There are bolts that hold the mounts to the crossmember, but I didn't see them because they were buried under a mix of dirt an oil.
It's out. I'm used to fighting EFI engines where the hard part is all the crap you have to disconnect and remove to get at things. This one is so simple yet fought pretty hard. I could probably do it a lot quicker now though. Spent another hour power washing all the oil that came out of the trans off the driveway.
Not sure what I'm going to do it. I'll put it on FBM for $100 and see if anyone takes it.
Not sure what I'm going to do it. I'll put it on FBM for $100 and see if anyone takes it.
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I know it's kinda ghetto, but I couldn't stop myself. It doesn't match at all, but I think the bright white engine bay and matte black engine will look pretty good. I'm going to leave the outside and the underside of the hood alone.
Everything under the hood is going to be replaced so I didn't bother masking. It's not a restoration or a restomod or a show car. It's a driver.
Everything under the hood is going to be replaced so I didn't bother masking. It's not a restoration or a restomod or a show car. It's a driver.
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Took a few measurements today.
The 5.3 is roughly 13" from the center of the motor mounts to the back edge of the block. The center of the slant engine mount is 21" from the firewall. LOL. You could darn near mount the entire engine and transmission under the hood if you tried hard enough.
I bought some universal LS mounts, but I don't think they are going to be wide enough as the frame is roughly 36" inside edge to inside edge where the engine will probably sit. I think I can cut off and relocate the slant engine mounts to narrow it down to something workable.
I am not sure if the factory crossmember will stay. Neither the trans or engine will mount to it, so it won't really do anything besides act as a brace and it's way too bulky just for that. I bought a trans-dapt universal cross member for the trans.
The 5.3 is roughly 13" from the center of the motor mounts to the back edge of the block. The center of the slant engine mount is 21" from the firewall. LOL. You could darn near mount the entire engine and transmission under the hood if you tried hard enough.
I bought some universal LS mounts, but I don't think they are going to be wide enough as the frame is roughly 36" inside edge to inside edge where the engine will probably sit. I think I can cut off and relocate the slant engine mounts to narrow it down to something workable.
I am not sure if the factory crossmember will stay. Neither the trans or engine will mount to it, so it won't really do anything besides act as a brace and it's way too bulky just for that. I bought a trans-dapt universal cross member for the trans.
Did something expensive today ... I bought QA1's bolt-on IFS for this truck. Cost more than the darned truck did.
I have the metal and some parts for a Mustang II IFS conversion, but I just didn't feel confident in my fab and welding skills on something that important. Man's got to know his limitations.
I can use the metal on other stuff and the only parts I have that I won't end up using are the FleaBay control arms that I bought. I have CPP's Mustang II knuckles with Corvette unit bearings and brakes I will be using instead of the spindles that come with the QA1 kit.
I have the metal and some parts for a Mustang II IFS conversion, but I just didn't feel confident in my fab and welding skills on something that important. Man's got to know his limitations.
I can use the metal on other stuff and the only parts I have that I won't end up using are the FleaBay control arms that I bought. I have CPP's Mustang II knuckles with Corvette unit bearings and brakes I will be using instead of the spindles that come with the QA1 kit.
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