Need help! Can't Find what kind of Trans oil I need

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thegawd

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Just something I learned early on..... Always remove the fill plug first just to make sure you can open it before draining it.

the drain plug will open no matter what, its submerged in oil on the inside. the fill plug is not.

I got hung up on the damn fill plug on a 243c Tcase that I couldnt for the life of me get out. I was replacing a transmission and even had it on the work bench. we also had that last polar vortex going on and it was -30 and cold as hell! anyways it took me over a week before it turned and I was finally able to put my truck back together.

an antique easy out that someone made out of a railroad spike is what saved the day but I had to grind the tip off to make it fit.....

Yup always open or at least make sure the fill plug will open before ever draining the fluid.

Welcome to the club!
 

Schurkey

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I admit that verifying the fill plug is a good idea.

I've never had a problem getting a fill plug out. There are three reasons for this:
1. The Hulk has it right: Get angry, get strong. The genuinely-difficult part of this--and what The Hulk does not get right--is getting angry enough to be effective, while not losing your mind.
2. When dealing with female square wrenching surfaces--as commonly used on iron pipe-plugs--DO NOT EVER try to use a 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch drive socket extension or ratchet/breaker bar square drive poked directly into the female square hole in the plug. Those tools are drilled for a spring-loaded ball or pin to retain a socket. They will break at the drilling. Use a dedicated plug removal tool of the correct size for the female square hole in the plug. The dedicated, proper tool will not be drilled for a socket retaining ball.
For example: (I have not used this set, and there's many other brands that have essentially the same tools. I bought mine one-at-a-time to fit the plugs I was dealing with, not as a "set".)
www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-1308P-8-Piece-Socket/dp/B00KBYJVUA/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3E0VL9IJC07AD&keywords=pipe+plug+tool&qid=1640210281&sprefix=pipe%2520plug%2520tool%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-9
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

3. God bless Oxy-acetylene. Heat the PLUG cherry-red, let it cool, screws right out. Propane or MAP-Plus is not hot enough unless you have a proper torch and a bottle of oxygen to go with it. (Oxy-Propane, or Oxy-MAP-Plus) Heating the PLUG does two things--it becomes pliable/malleable/deformable, and it expands from heat. The plug expands, but cannot expand in diameter because it's jammed into the "cold" casting. Therefore, since it's pliable, it expands lengthwise. When it cools, it contracts both lengthwise and in diameter--making the diameter smaller than when you started. Reduced diameter breaks any rust bond, and increases the gap between male and female threads.
 
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thegawd

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That's all great advice Schurkey. All I had was a shìtty dinkey propane torch and I went through a couple bottles over the course of that week. I could never get it cherry red.

of course I really think the polar vortex was a big part of the problem. you live in the frozen wasteland, I bet it was colder where you lived. it sucked!

the plug had a hex head and I rounded it off pretty quickly. I'm pretty sure the replacement plug was a square and only available at the dealership for an outrageous price!
 
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1994Shy

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Just something I learned early on..... Always remove the fill plug first just to make sure you can open it before draining it.

the drain plug will open no matter what, its submerged in oil on the inside. the fill plug is not.

I got hung up on the damn fill plug on a 243c Tcase that I couldnt for the life of me get out. I was replacing a transmission and even had it on the work bench. we also had that last polar vortex going on and it was -30 and cold as hell! anyways it took me over a week before it turned and I was finally able to put my truck back together.

an antique easy out that someone made out of a railroad spike is what saved the day but I had to grind the tip off to make it fit.....

Yup always open or at least make sure the fill plug will open before ever draining the fluid.

Welcome to the club

Just something I learned early on..... Always remove the fill plug first just to make sure you can open it before draining it.

the drain plug will open no matter what, its submerged in oil on the inside. the fill plug is not.

I got hung up on the damn fill plug on a 243c Tcase that I couldnt for the life of me get out. I was replacing a transmission and even had it on the work bench. we also had that last polar vortex going on and it was -30 and cold as hell! anyways it took me over a week before it turned and I was finally able to put my truck back together.

an antique easy out that someone made out of a railroad spike is what saved the day but I had to grind the tip off to make it fit.....

Yup always open or at least make sure the fill plug will open before ever draining the fluid.

Welcome to the club!
That is NOT a good situation to drain the oil and have no way to fill it. Also where are you that it's that cold. Coldest I ever felt was -9. I can't imagine-30
 

thegawd

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Ha, that was during the last polar vortex. about 9 years ago. it has not even come close to being that cold here in southern Ontario Canada since.

we haven't actually had a good cold winter in a long time. it's supposed to rain on Christmas.

-30°C is -22°F, it stayed consistently at that temperature for 3 weeks. I would like to see a real winter for a change. I need to haul a few years worth of firewood out of the bush for all the years inbetween when it's too damn warm and muddy to do much of anything during the winter.
 

GoToGuy

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FYI. ATF auto trans fluid. ENGINE oil. Not motor oil.
 

GoToGuy

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GM originally adopted " General Motors " to identify themself and not be confused with steam engines. The current widely used transportation power. Engines produce power through internal combustion. Motors produce power through means not internal combustion ie hydraulic, pneumatic etc.
 
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