Need help! Can't Find what kind of Trans oil I need

[stutaeng]

He is entertaining! And that’s exactly how I “exchanged” my transmission fluid. Was that correct terminology?

I used to watch his channel. But now he talks with a little too much drama and too darn fast. He's not a deep hardcore guy that knows everything, but for basic maintenance, he is great.

My favorite video is when he drove that 95 GMC from Austin to Oregon? with that super heavy U haul 6x12 trailer. That was at the beginning of his channel.

Hat's off to you for doing the flush. I think his procedure is fine. I've been meaning to do it over the break, but got ill with the bug... Body has no desire to do that for the time being.

 

[Caman96]

I used to watch his channel. But now he talks with a little too much drama and too darn fast. He's not a deep hardcore guy that knows everything, but for basic maintenance, he is great.

My favorite video is when he drove that 95 GMC from Austin to Oregon? with that super heavy U haul 6x12 trailer. That was at the beginning of his channel.

Hat's off to you for doing the flush. I think his procedure is fine. I've been meaning to do it over the break, but got ill with the bug... Body has no desire to do that for the time being.

Definitely worth doing and with help

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in the truck it’s a breeze. And now with newly added aluminum pan and drain plug I can blend in new fluid often to keep it fresh!

 

[454cid]

The tag is missing on rear diff so I don't know what type it is. I know there's a way to check by rotating the wheels or something like that. Thanks for the responses. !

It's not missing...there likely never was one unless it has a dana axle, and that's not likely either.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Easy power steering flush trick.

Thread a bolt into the power steering pump shaft. Mine was 3/8-16. YMMV.

Remove the belt from the pump.

Find a helper to saw the wheel back and forth.

Jack up the front enough for the tires to come off the ground.

Plug the return nipple(s) on the pump reservoir.

Extend the return hose(s) up over the fender and into a drain pan.

Fill the pump reservoir to the top with clean, cheap power steering fluid.

Turn the pump with a cordless drill, air ratchet, or other some such.

Have the kid steer from lock to lock as you turn the pump keeping the reservoir full until the fluid comes out clean.
If you have hydroboost have the kid pump the brake pedal at the same time.

Disconnect all the cobbled up drain attachments and button the return line(s) back up. Add a magnetic filter inline.

Fill the reservoir with name brand POWER STEERING fluid. Run the pump and have the kid do his thing until all the bubbles are gone and the fluid is to the proper level.

Put the belt on and go get ice cream!

 

[Schurkey]

I like this guy.

He's better when the playback speed is 1.25--1.5 times regular speed.

I think his procedure is fine.

He's wasting some additional fluid, needlessly.

Drop and clean the pan and replace the filter AFTER the old fluid has been pumped out, and BEFORE the new fluid is installed.

The pan is near empty when you pull the bolts out, it doesn't drool all over. And you aren't dropping the pan and wasting fresh fluid in it. The "new" fluid never goes through a dirty filter, or touches a fuzzy, dirty magnet.

Run the engine with the new fluid, new filter, and clean trans pan/magnet until the fluid coming out of the cooler tube/vinyl hose is clean and bright-red. Shut off engine, connect cooler tube, top off trans fluid as needed.

 

[Supercharged111]

He's better when the playback speed is 1.25--1.5 times regular speed.

He's wasting some additional fluid, needlessly.

Drop and clean the pan and replace the filter AFTER the old fluid has been pumped out, and BEFORE the new fluid is installed.

The pan is near empty when you pull the bolts out, it doesn't drool all over. And you aren't dropping the pan and wasting fresh fluid in it. The "new" fluid never goes through a dirty filter, or touches a fuzzy, dirty magnet.

Run the engine with the new fluid, new filter, and clean trans pan/magnet until the fluid coming out of the cooler tube/vinyl hose is clean and bright-red. Shut off engine, connect cooler tube, top off trans fluid as needed.

My 1500 and Envoy have both hit 50,000+ since a virgin fill/flush. I usually drop the pan first, do the filter, then refill but I think for the Envoy I'll pump that sucker dry first. My 4L80 rigs have drain plugs. I've done a number of transmissions this way, most all high mileage, and NEVER had a problem. Why? Because they weren't broke when I did the flush in the first place. It was preventative maintenance. Most recent was my dually last year. 23 years old, about 150k, fluid was varnished but not burned. Not sure if it ever had a filter done on it, but I flushed it and sent it on its way and the truck felt the same after as it did before. That's been my experience with every flush I've done so far.

 

[Schurkey]

Agreed. The "danger" of flushing fluid is greatly exaggerated.

 

[Caman96]

I personally feel better eating fresh food after a good flush!

 

[1994Shy]

I admit that verifying the fill plug is a good idea.

I've never had a problem getting a fill plug out. There are three reasons for this:
1. The Hulk has it right: Get angry, get strong. The genuinely-difficult part of this--and what The Hulk does not get right--is getting angry enough to be effective, while not losing your mind.
2. When dealing with female square wrenching surfaces--as commonly used on iron pipe-plugs--DO NOT EVER try to use a 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch drive socket extension or ratchet/breaker bar square drive poked directly into the female square hole in the plug. Those tools are drilled for a spring-loaded ball or pin to retain a socket. They will break at the drilling. Use a dedicated plug removal tool of the correct size for the female square hole in the plug. The dedicated, proper tool will not be drilled for a socket retaining ball.
For example: (I have not used this set, and there's many other brands that have essentially the same tools. I bought mine one-at-a-time to fit the plugs I was dealing with, not as a "set".)
www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-1308P-8-Piece-Socket/dp/B00KBYJVUA/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3E0VL9IJC07AD&keywords=pipe+plug+tool&qid=1640210281&sprefix=pipe%2520plug%2520tool%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-9

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3. God bless Oxy-acetylene. Heat the PLUG cherry-red, let it cool, screws right out. Propane or MAP-Plus is not hot enough unless you have a proper torch and a bottle of oxygen to go with it. (Oxy-Propane, or Oxy-MAP-Plus) Heating the PLUG does two things--it becomes pliable/malleable/deformable, and it expands from heat. The plug expands, but cannot expand in diameter because it's jammed into the "cold" casting. Therefore, since it's pliable, it expands lengthwise. When it cools, it contracts both lengthwise and in diameter--making the diameter smaller than when you started. Reduced diameter breaks any rust bond, and increases the gap between male and female threads.

Imagine breaking a ratchet off in there. ! Nightmare scenario

 

[thegawd]

I'll have to find the pic of the rounded hex plug I was dealing with. I posted it over on GMTC many many years ago. it literally was the worst thing I have ever done on a vehicle AND we owned a damn sebring! LMAO

a pic is worth 1000 words.... heres a couple. Apparently its not a square plug that replaced it and another hex.

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