JeremyNH
I'm Awesome
This is the one I used when I put in a marine intake last Spring. Heats up steady to 210, then cools quick to maybe 170 as the radiator water circulates, then steadies back up to 195ish and stays there.
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The Vortec stats are taller than the old school ones and have a plunger on the bottom.
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Oh, I guess I've never thought about what that is.... or how it works.
I don't know how it works, but it sounds like it routes a certain amount of coolant around the radiator and back to the block again to make it warm up faster.
That's what I find confusing, since our engines already have a coolant bypass. TBI small blocks have it internally in the block, and Vortecs use an external hose, as do big blocks. I don't think I've ever looked inside the intake manifold to see how/where the bottom fits in place.
I think my Saturn has a similar setup.
It does combined with a high volume water pump you'll see less temperature fluctuations. I have that T-stat with a Tuff Stuff water pump and a 3 row aluminum radiator which helps keep it cool in the summer around here but, as @Supercharged111 pointed out, that T-stat isn't even shown for a Vortec in "Applications" on Summit's site.So I'm thinking the kooler tstat is going to just allow more flow and not fix my temp fluctuation.
Measured HOW?Another bit of information is that I'm finding about a 30°ish temp lose through the upper radiator hose. Then it drops another 30°ish through the radiator.
Nope. The concentration of antifreeze vs. water makes some difference, but not the brand.Would one brand coolant retain heat better than another brand? Is that a thing lol
Generally not a good idea. If the cooling system still has the OEM bypass, all that does is slow warm-up. If the OEM bypass has been blocked, you might need to drill the themostat--but why block the bypass?years ago we used to drill a small hole in it to allow a little more flow when cold and warming up, YMMV