I bought some good used upper & lower control arms. $50.00 for all 4 from the wreckers.
Good plan.
Installed new bushings, (urethane) new ball-joints & painted them up all nice & purdy before we even started any of the front end lowering.
Installing those bushings was a bit of a bear of a job. T-i-g-h-t fit!
Had to use a mondo-large press. Took 'a while'!
Did you put the Poly bushings into the original shells, or did you replace the shells? I leave the original shells in place, clean-up the old rubber bits from the inside of the original shell, grease the Polyurethane inserts, and slide the Poly bushings into the original shells
by hand. No press needed for the bushings.
EDIT: For Fukk Sakes, DO NOT follow the advice given in that Clown Video!
1. The bonehead uses the torch, but he doesn't heat the shell evenly. IF he'd move the torch around the shell, it'd heat evenly, the bushing would practically push itself out, and there'd be less smoke and flames from the burning rubber. He heats the shell in one place, burns the rubber near the torch instead of melting the outer layer all the way around. Some control arms don't allow you heat all the way around the shell, but
do what you can to heat them evenly.
2.
If you nick the control arm with the saw, the control arm is likely to crack where you've created the stress-riser.
3. The control arm needs to be braced with "special tools" when pressing the new bushing shell into place. Failure to brace the control arm leads to distortion of the control arm, and the distortion increases the amount of force needed--which distorts the control arm even more. If you were pressing the old shell out, you'd also need to brace the control arm during that process, too. The "braces" are just pieces of tubing cut in half that fit along side the bushing shell so that the flange of the control arm can't collapse. Easy enough to make at home.
NOT having to press the shell out of the arm is the leading advantage of Polyurethane bushing inserts. There are other advantages as well--such as NOT having to have the suspension at normal ride height when torquing the bolt that goes through the middle of the bushing holding the control arm to the frame.