Well this is gonna suck!

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Spareparts

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Ohya before i jacked it up i change the tie rods to get them adjusted. I find if you do not move the tire or the steering wheel the new ones being installed are very close to the original setting.
Took me a few hours to get the old bushings out and it was a pita, but it was another man over machine triumph!
Removing the ball joints was not to hard at all.
After that was done i was wondering how i was going to get the bushings in.
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Spareparts

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Turns out that if you sand some of the rust out of the bores where the bushings insert it's not to hard at all.
I found that a little rubber lube i was able to press them in easy with my drill press almost all the way. I had to use the ball joint press for the last 1/4 inch but again easy.
Tomorrow will be reassembly. Should be easy enough. The real problem is when your 62 muscles start hurting!:doh2:
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Spareparts

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Also, i can say for certainty that the early H2 Hummer bushings are the exact same as original GM chevy bushings.
The set i bought were, Mivotech Control Arm Bushings - MS504104 and are a perfect match.

 

alpinecrick

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I think I'd rather change a transmission than remove and install control arm bushings....

Good job Spareparts!

The Mevotech TTX's are the best ball joints I've found for the K series trucks--and I've tried a few...
 

Spareparts

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The hardest part was taking the larger bushings out. Ball joint press with the 4x4 adaptors just is not large enough. It will take it halfway out but no further.
The first one i cut off at the skinny part and the press took it the rest of the way out.
The second one again removed it 1/2 way with the press then i used a gear puller to remove it the rest of the way. Definitely easier and faster!
The small bushing will just push out with the press.
Install was less than 20 minutes for both large and small bushing.
 

BNielsen

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How hard was it to pull the LCAs????
I need to do bushings and balljoints on my red truck in a real bad way, I was hoping to find a set already pulled to R&R but I'm not having any luck, so I figured I'd just bite the bullet.
 

Spareparts

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Mine are forged. I dont know if Stamped will be different and i don't know what you have. Removing my from the truck was not too hard, The torsion bars were only stuck slightly in the keys and not stuck at all at the LCA. I did unload my torsion bars.
The only real hard part is the rear bolt that holds the LCA in. It will NOT slide past the front diff housing.
I cut the bolt head off and slide it past thinking i would just put a new bolt in from the rear. You can't do that. Well you could but it is wrong.
The holes in the frame that the bolt slides through is designed to only allow the bolt to fit from the front as the front side is sized to accept the sholder of the bolt and the aft is sized for only the threads. I almost reamed the aft hole out and thought that is what im gonna do.
When the time came i could not do it and ended up taking the bolts loose/out for the diff.
Putting the bolt in from the rear will make the front hole a sloppy fit leading to damage later.
Im about 3/4 done so any questions i'll get back to ya leter today :grd:
 

termite

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Unless i misunderstood previous posts, other folks here have indicated the half shaft will pop out of the diff housing once you remove the CV shafts. If so, the rear bolt in the LCA should have clearance to come out. (I dropped the diff and heard about the shafts popping out afterwards).
 

Spareparts

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With my half shafts out it would not clear. I tried prying the diff over with a 3ft bar and it would not move enough.
I had to unbolt the pass side and unbolt the lower drivers side. Managed just enough clearance to get the new bolt in.
Mine is 3/4 ton. Maybe 1/2 ton is different?

OH WAIT. are you talking the shaft the CV axle bolts to? If it just pops outta the diff SOB i did not know that! FK that would have made life easier.
 
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