What motor oil are you running in your Vortec?

[PlayingWithTBI]

I've used nothing but Mobil1, either 0w-40 (European Formula) or 10w-40 (in my 88 5.7L, my Chrysler Crossfire (7500 mile intervals), and my Infinity Q45, 5w-30 in her Escape), even sometimes during the summer 15w-50 (with Mobil1 Extended Miles oil filter) since the Mr Goodwrench long block was installed in ~2001 (I bought the truck in 2002). Still doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil in 5000 mile intervals here in AZ. I know everyone has their own opinions and I'm not going to get into this argument again, ha ha.

 

[SAATR]

Rotella T6 5W40 in the '97 Suburban, because it's one of the least expensive 5W40's on the market and is well regarded, and because the 370k mile engine needs a 40 weight oil to maintain good hot idle oil pressure. The '98 Silverado currently has Rotella T4 10W30, because it's reasonably cheap for a semi-syn at approx $18/gallon, and as an experiment to see if the hot idle oil pressure is better than Pennzoil conventional 5W30 (250k miles on engine). So far, it isn't much different for oil pressure, but after changing the cluster (120mph Denali/Esky) and having no change in oil pressure, I've decided to try a different sending unit and see where I sit.

 

[Wilecoyote]

Yep, 51036 is what I use.

My dad has had several GMT400 trucks bought new and driven with no issues at all for over 200,000 miles each until they were sold to me for very cheap. I ran the snot out of them after that and never had an internal engine problem at all. Each of the trucks ran 10W30 Valvoline conventional motor oil and whichever cheap filter was available. I used the same oil, but sprung for the slightly more expensive AC filter. I never have understood why someone would buy a cheap filter to save a buck to protect an engine with a replacement cost of a couple thousand dollars, but whatever.

So I always used what had proven itself to work for us. It's been a long time since I've had any older Chevy trucks and I recently bought my '97 with a 4.3 and I scoured the internet for oil information and about 99% of what I read said to use whatever cheap dino oil you could find on sale and the engine won't care and will still run forever. Basically what I got out of it is that these engines are not picky about what we dump in them as long as it's dino oil. So I'm going to stick with conventional oil, but I'm not going to buy random cheap oil, I'll still use Valvoline as we always have.

Ive got a 98s10 4.3 w 215k and have used 5w30 synthetic blends for a decade. It's been beat to hell but still runs fine. The trans. fuel pump,waterpump, throttle body,steering linkage have been replaced over the years.

 

[RichLo]

If it leaks or burns oil 10w40 or 20w50 cheap conventional oil depending on mileage.

if it doesnt leak or burn 5w30 Amsoil Signature and run it for the full 25k miles per oil change.

 

[BNielsen]

Amsoil 10W30 Signature Series and an Amsoil filter.

 

[885speed]

I used to run what ever cheap 5W-30 full synthetic was on sale when I needed it, but since the Rotella gas truck oil started showing up on the shelf not too long ago I've been running that.
My truck seems to like it, lifters were a little sticky on cold starts, but not after running the Rotella.
283K on the clock and counting.
I like it because it's priced very competitively as well, my last oil change I picked up a 5QT jug for $21

Filter-wise, anything but a Fram is good with me.
I used to like the Mobil 1 filters that were larger to hold more oil, but my local stores don't seem to carry them anymore. So I just usually pick up either a Delco or STP.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Conventional Valvoline 5w30 with a Wix filter. I'll substitute Castrol if the Valvoline isn't available, or an AC Delco if Wix isn't available.

 

[jaywestfall]

Schaeffer 10W30 blend and a K&N black filter. I'm at 250000 on the original 1998 5.7 Vortec.

 

[454cid]

Rotella T4 10w30, a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, and a Quaker State oil filter made by Purolator from Menard's. I might have an AC Delco classic on there now, Though. 290K miles on the original 454.

I typically dump the cheapest oil I can find in it, when it gets low Though. It leaks various places, especially the valve covers.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

My dad always used Quaker State and AC filters on all our GM vehicles,everything from a 55 Chevy to both our 99 vortec Burbs. In the current one, I've been using QS10w30 high mileage red label, will probably go to 10w40 for the summer on my next change. I try to do a 3500 mile interval but often it goes to 4000 or more. (I'm working in my driveway so weather conditions are a factor.) The truck doesn't use any oil until it's been around 4000 since the last change, and then only a little bit. This truck has 182,000 and change on the original engine. The other one went over 250,000 on this same protocol. I can get PF1218 AC filters for around $5 at the parts house. I also put most of a quart of new oil in the filter so it has fresh oil coming into the pump, fresh oil on the gasket and a little film of oil on the mounting surface ( the cooler line block). Don't do that and it will get stuck! Ask me how I know!