What’s cheapest easiest way to get more hp & torque

[97K1500Silverado]

I keep seeing the need for a 'tune' when any significant modifications are made - and I'm not disputing that. Just curious whether the tune alters fuelling or ignition parameters - or both?

I ran my truck for 10 years with exhaust mods and no tune. I noticed a small difference with exhaust. More getup and go throughout the rpm range.

After tune noticed another small increase. Truck revs out more when deep in the throttle, trans shifts firmer when past half throttle but still smooth at cruise. Truck definitely has more seat of the pants getup and go with tune.

I think they just increase timing, fuel and reduce the electronic torque management. Yes these trucks have a small amount of electronic “nannies” like all the new trucks to limit torque and power during certain situations to protect drivetrain etc.

Still can’t burnout on pavement but I have 33” load range e BFG K02 and live at high elevation.

In short I’d say do exhaust for sure and tune after that if you want more.

 

[618 Syndicate]

I keep seeing the need for a 'tune' when any significant modifications are made - and I'm not disputing that. Just curious whether the tune alters fuelling or ignition parameters - or both?

When I say a tune I'm meaning reprogramming the ecm fuel and ignition tables to maximize performance and for any mods. Factory tuning is designed to meet emissions criteria and make **** last. Manufacturers inevitably leave power on the table, not just peak numbers but all across the rpm range. How much depends on the platform, but there's always some. Picking up over 100 hp at the wheels with bolt-ons and a tune is not unheard of for some, but there's gains to be had for any fuel injected motor.

 

[bobby v]

More power & cheap do not equate. Ask me how I know
Bobby V

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Just curious whether the tune alters fuelling or ignition parameters - or both?

Both plus other stuff too depending on what you want to get out of it. If you run higher octane you can advance your spark (SA tables) even more. Adding fuel (VE tables) can help reduce detonation too. You can play with PE and AE to optimize power when you mash the skinny pedal. You can add Hywy Lean Cruise to gain MPGs. You can eliminate EGR, transmission shift points and behavior (on Electronic ones), etc. Fun stuff!

 

[Erik the Awful]

Shorties. They will bolt up to stock exhaust or this flowmaster head pipe with high flow cats. I think engine masters did a comparison and shorties won vs longtubes.

Season 1, Episode 15. Long tubes won, hands down. If you can weld or have an affordable exhaust shop, long tubes.

If you need them to bolt right up, stick with the stock manifolds. @L31MaxExpress knows which factory manifolds flow the best.

 

[Hipster]

Going fast costs money. The first 5hp can come pretty easy but the horsepowers get progressively more expensive from there. It's hard to go fast on a muffler budget.

What's the budget?

 

[stutaeng]

Nitrous...

I'm kidding. Kinda.
Headers and a tune are your best bet. That'll wake it up a bit.

Nitrous from a HP/$ ratio, LOL. Aren't there kits nowadays that are like $400? 50 shot = 50 hp gain 100 shot = 100 HP gain?

But engine has to come out to do the ring gap, so not a fair statement.

Need more info: TBI or Vortec? How much power and what's your budget needs to be disclosed first?


10HP and $300 budget? Yes!

or

100 HP and $5000 budget? Yes!

or

100 HP on $500 budget? Probably not! (See above)

 

[618 Syndicate]

Nitrous from a HP/$ ratio, LOL. Aren't there kits nowadays that are like $400? 50 shot = 50 hp gain 100 shot = 100 HP gain?

But engine has to come out to do the ring gap, so not a fair statement.

Need more info: TBI or Vortec? How much power and what's your budget needs to be disclosed first?


10HP and $300 budget? Yes!

or

100 HP and $5000 budget? Yes!

or

100 HP on $500 budget? Probably not! (See above)

Nitrous has always been the cheapest way to get more power, up to a certain point, and with some restrictions. It's also reliable if you understand how it works and do it safely.
You don't HAVE to open up the ring gap, but I agree it's best, especially with a big shot. Spray it til it blows, back down a pill and rebuild it!

 

[Pinger]

More power & cheap do not equate. Ask me how I know
Bobby V

Cheap, fast, reliable. Choose any two - but only two.

 

[Insert Quarter]

New Fuel pump - If I remember correctly EP381? Whatever the newer pump is in the late 90's trucks

Y-pipe - I don't know what year you got but I went with this for my '89:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/31001/10002/-1

Check/Clean/Replace Grounds - plus add an Alternator ground wire from the alternator casing

(From what I've read and understand the flow of electrical current is caused by electrons that flow negative to positive. The steps for jump starting a vehicle and why it's recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on them, never really made sense to me until I looked up "Electron Current" vs. "Conventional Current")

I felt the need to share that for whatever reason.

Anyway, after that - spend some time on gearhead-efi.com, I found it to be a steep learning curve, but the full potential of mods won't be seen without proper tuning.