Another Torque Converter question

[TerryApple68]

I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban SE Wagon K2500, 8600 GVWR. 5.7L 350 TBI. (199.7 hp) and 262.3 ft lbs @ (4,000 rpm). (309.7 ft lbs) torque and 141.5 hp @ (2,400 rpm). Torque Converter Low Stall (1800 rpm). With 2 1/16" hub (snout) length. Cam shaft power band 0-3200 rpms. K&N FIPK cold air intake, 4L80E transmission w/overdrive and shift kit. NP241C transfer case. 4:88 gear ratio with Eaton electric lockers. 37X12.50X17 Toyo Open Country MT tires. Does anyone know what stall I can use to give me the most low-end torque. For off road use. I only drive on the road to get to the mountains or if snow is too deep for my daily driver. Boss Hog torque Converters suggested a 49481 converter which is a 1600-2200 stall. Does that sound right? If the stock stall is 1800 Rpm. Would I be able to notice any difference?

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[Hipster]

I think is working for you in the rpm ranges you're talking about., but think you could stand more gear with 37's, more stall moves everything up the scale. I would call one of the other converter companies and see what they, a custom unit usually comes with one free re-stall if not happy. Not making alot of power will likely put you closer to the bottom number. Converter can exhibit a torque multiplication effect but it's usually not magical on a low stall converter and more evident the higher stall you go depending on how the verter is built. Shelf catolog units usually not hitting on much. Kind of generic.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

I think is working for you in the rpm ranges you're talking about., but think you could stand more gear with 37's, more stall moves everything up the scale. I would call one of the other converter companies and see what they, a custom unit usually comes with one free re-stall if not happy. Not making alot of power will likely put you closer to the bottom number. Converter can exhibit a torque multiplication effect but it's usually not magical on a low stall converter and more evident the higher stall you go depending on how the verter is built. Shelf catolog units usually not hitting on much. Kind of generic.

Good points, the converter ratings are partially dependent on the HP and TQ applied to them. A good example is when I ran a 350 Hp engine and a 2500 stall converter it was flashing up to 2500 and then coupling up fine. Once I added turbos it was blowing through the converter till 5000 as the added torque was too much for the converter.

In your case if it were up to me I would pick a 2500 stall converter as you have big tires and a heavy truck to move through the mountains. But I would add a external large trans cooler for sure no matter what you do.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban SE Wagon K2500, 8600 GVWR. 5.7L 350 TBI. (199.7 hp) and 262.3 ft lbs @ (4,000 rpm). (309.7 ft lbs) torque and 141.5 hp @ (2,400 rpm). Torque Converter Low Stall (1800 rpm). With 2 1/16" hub (snout) length. Cam shaft power band 0-3200 rpms. K&N FIPK cold air intake, 4L80E transmission w/overdrive and shift kit. NP241C transfer case. 4:88 gear ratio with Eaton electric lockers. 37X12.50X17 Toyo Open Country MT tires. Does anyone know what stall I can use to give me the most low-end torque. For off road use. I only drive on the road to get to the mountains or if snow is too deep for my daily driver. Boss Hog torque Converters suggested a 49481 converter which is a 1600-2200 stall. Does that sound right? If the stock stall is 1800 Rpm. Would I be able to notice any difference?

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Cam grind/profile along with vehicle weight final drive ratio and usage pattern determine ideal stall speed range. In your case, their recommendation makes sense and a stock stall should be fine.

The higher the stall speed, the greater amount of torque mutiplication occurs (and more performance potential) before the converter achieves total fluid coupling (fluid coupling = converter's stator one-way clutch is no longer holding but freewheeling). The engine speed in which that occurs is the stall speed.

Conversely, the higher the stall speed, the more heat is generated so you have to manage/mitigate that heat. Others have mentioned big trans coolers which is a must have, esp in a higher stall in a bigger, heavier vehicle.

Looks like you have an appropriate final drive (4.88) for your tire size so you can be a bit flexible in terms of your stall but i wouldnt go more than 2200 or so...for my street/off road/tow builds, i typically provide either a mild stall or a custom low stall for tow-centric builds, to keep heat in check.