What’s cheapest easiest way to get more hp & torque

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Schurkey

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Or, you could just talk about the "insulated side" and the "ground side" of each circuit.

While some "ground" cables are insulated, we've all seen the copper-braid ground straps without a plastic covering.
 

df2x4

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Back on the subject of the original question... If we're talking '96+ Vortec trucks then I would say the best, cheapest, and easiest thing you can possibly do for some extra power is getting the PCM tuned. Even on my relatively stock V6 truck it made a huge difference in power and general behavior.

A mail order tune from Black Bear Performance is around $350 with free alterations for life and swapping PCMs is a 10 minute job.
 

Bloodwater79

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look at a stronger fuel pressure regulator spring or an adjustable on reg, upgrade the fuel pump to the 96 and newer vortec 454 pump. mandrel Y pipe from the manifolds, bore out the TBI or use the 454 tbi with the 350 injectors. not really going to make a huge jump unless you rework the heads/upgrade to performance set and change the cam.
probably the most noticable upgrade would be a lower set of gears. looking at what 300ish bucks to rebuild the rear diff
 

LVJJJ

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As Ben (Newbie) wrote, I also have JBA shorty headers and they do fit great and seal up real well. I installed them on my new 383 because I kept cracking my stock exhaust manifolds. They did help power, seem to add torque which is great as I tow with the 94 Suburban. As for engine compartment heat, not too bad. Last summer we towed in 100 degree heat so I removed the inner fenderwell splash guards and the compartment stayed fairly cool. Now that it rains everyday, sheilds are back on. I think the heat in engine compartments is over rated. I began towing in 1988 with a 1965 Chevy Van (still have it) in which I installed a 292 6 cyl stroker. I have full length headers on it. As the engine is between the seats in a doghouse, and setback about 3 feet from the front of the truck, engine heat is much more of a concern than standard vehicles. However, not enough to cause problems. Towed over 90,000 miles with no damage from heat.

As for bolt on (or off) up grades for a stock 350, first thing I did was get rid of the air intake box that reduced the intake pipe from 4" to 3". Now run a 4" dryer duct directly from the fender to the air cleaner. Also added a 3" air intake from driver's side fender to air cleaner. Engines need all the air they can get. Next, dual exhaust, that REALLY opened up the power. Can't stay with that stupid Y pipe and get any power. Two big truck mufflers and 3" exhaust and tail pipes. Kinda loud but not inside the truck. I don't have any cats but if needed could use a couple if I had to. Live in a rural area. Of course, tune up, new AC plugs wires, cap, rotor (got to be AC). Since that didn't make the low compression 350 powerful enough to meet my trailer towing needs, had a remanufactured 383 stroker installed a year ago. Now I have power, and still use two air intakes, dual exhaust and JBA headers. I can take some mountain passes in 3rd gear and cruise on the level in 4th. (No K&N air filters)
 

Erik the Awful

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I think the heat in engine compartments is over rated.
Heat is absolutely an important consideration, but I think our trucks, having a relatively open engine bay, are less susceptible. I didn't bother to get ceramic coated headers and heat has not been an issue yet.

I burned up the starter wiring on my '69 Cadillac with new headers. That created some fun and sparks, and stranded me twenty miles from home. Yes, the battery cable and solenoid wire were secured away from the header, but I ended up having to buy a cable sheathe.

Also, on our MR2 race car, we had a bad misfire. Engine heat had cooked the airflow meter connector, it crumbled, and two of the terminals were shorting.
 

victor II

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I think a complete and careful, quality part tuneup (not inexpensive stuff like autozone, etc.) is the best place to start. I get my parts from NAPA. Stick with Wix air filters, full synthetic oil, perfect tire pressure, new low resistance wires, and a free flowing exhaust (I use a 3” one into two Flowmaster Deltaflow. Change trans and rear end fluids. In other words optimize what you have to start.
 
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