Truck Stalls But Fuel Injectors Keep Spraying?? Video Included

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19Silverado94

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Replaced ECM with Part# 16196395. Still Code 43. Tried to drive it and truck stalls when I press the gas pedal. It’ll start right up in Neutral, but it will stall if I step on it again. I’m not flooring the pedal, maybe only 30-40% throttle. Seems better with lighter pressure than heavy. I’m not really sure where else to go? Where is the ESC module in these trucks? Also, could my gauge ******* out affect my Code 43? Video attached.

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DerekTheGreat

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Ah, crappy parts right out of the box! Aftermarket junk..
The gage is driven by that sender in the cylinder head so perhaps it's junk, just seems like it grounds itself out and sticks. It doesn't control anything and nothing depends on it though. Tis important for obvious reasons, mine saved my bacon the other day. Despite having fresh coolant after 3 flushes, a new radiator, new thermostat and such my thermostat stuck closed for some reason and it overheated... :End rant:
You could check the resistance values of the sender at engine cold and engine hot and verify they are what they're supposed to be. I (naturally) forget what those are offhand. Cold they're some absurdly high resistance like in the thousands of ohms and hot they're really low, IIRC <50.

Have you tried a new computer yet? I'm not sure where your ESC lives, maybe on the later years it got integrated with the ECM? I went looking for spares and could only find them on '88-'90 trucks, as those years have them in the same spot mine is, in front of the TB to the left of it. Believe it has a wide 5 pin connector with flat blades.
 

19Silverado94

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Ah, crappy parts right out of the box! Aftermarket junk..
The gage is driven by that sender in the cylinder head so perhaps it's junk, just seems like it grounds itself out and sticks. It doesn't control anything and nothing depends on it though. Tis important for obvious reasons, mine saved my bacon the other day. Despite having fresh coolant after 3 flushes, a new radiator, new thermostat and such my thermostat stuck closed for some reason and it overheated... :End rant:
You could check the resistance values of the sender at engine cold and engine hot and verify they are what they're supposed to be. I (naturally) forget what those are offhand. Cold they're some absurdly high resistance like in the thousands of ohms and hot they're really low, IIRC <50.

Have you tried a new computer yet? I'm not sure where your ESC lives, maybe on the later years it got integrated with the ECM? I went looking for spares and could only find them on '88-'90 trucks, as those years have them in the same spot mine is, in front of the TB to the left of it. Believe it has a wide 5 pin connector with flat blades.

It was. Might be going AC Delco/Delphi from now on lol I could try and check that. I do have a multimeter.

Yes, new ECM went in yesterday. No change in truck behavior. Just can’t get rid of this Code 43! Online it looks like a black and red flat chip. I went looking in my engine bay and couldn’t find it anywhere.
 

Stokes1114

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Your esc is integrated into the PCM/memcal.. (or prom chip for the pcm). I doubt you have an extra memcal laying around, and if you did it would have to be a match of your truck. Meaning engine size, trans, etc. That would be a good thing to try though. I would search a junk yard for a memcal from a 93 or 94 with same motor and transmission. Those are the only 2 years you can use without having to reprogram your own chip. In 95 the trans changed a bit to a pwm lockup torque converter. If you have any questions let me know.

Also...I saw you replaced the knock sensor so I would go over that wire and connector very closely. That is a part of the esc code your getting. If any knicks or bad spots replace it.
 
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19Silverado94

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Your esc is integrated into the PCM/memcal.. (or prom chip for the pcm). I doubt you have an extra memcal laying around, and if you did it would have to be a match of your truck. Meaning engine size, trans, etc. That would be a good thing to try though. I would search a junk yard for a memcal from a 93 or 94 with same motor and transmission. Those are the only 2 years you can use without having to reprogram your own chip. In 95 the trans changed a bit to a pwm lockup torque converter. If you have any questions let me know

So being that I just replaced my PCM, the other possibility is the PROM/MEMCAL that clips into it, correct? I’ll try to be on the lookout for one locally and online. Is there any way to check the ESC circuit? I bought a Haynes manual and will be trying to read through it today. I don’t exactly know how to read wiring diagrams. Something else I need to learn.
 

19Silverado94

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Found this in my Haynes manual. I don’t see any fuses or fusible links in Circuit 13 DK BLU between the Knock Sensor and the ECM. I will be checking this wire in the next few days.

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Stokes1114

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The knock sensor is wired directly to the pcm. The memcal is part of the circuit. You can check the resistance of the knock sensor with a multimeter, but I don't know the good values off hand. A quick search should turn them up. The automatic trans knock sensor is different part than manual knock sensor so make sure you watch for that.
 

19Silverado94

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The knock sensor is wired directly to the pcm. The memcal is part of the circuit. You can check the resistance of the knock sensor with a multimeter, but I don't know the good values off hand. A quick search should turn them up. The automatic trans knock sensor is different part than manual knock sensor so make sure you watch for that.

I will be looking into that tomorrow, thanks. Also getting ready for the SuperBowl at a friends house, but had enough time to start proving my ECT sensor at the cylinder head and I found this..

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I’m getting 12.49V at the battery positive terminal, BUT..

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only getting 12.15V at the electrical connector.. So if what I understand is correct, I have a break in the circuit somewhere, correct?
 
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19Silverado94

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19Silverado94, all pcm sensors in your truck works with 5 volts, not 12,

I see. This circuit does not go the PCM, it goes directly to the gauge cluster. I’m wondering why there is a Voltage difference, if that’s a symptom of a problem somewhere else.

Also, is my Knock Sensor supposed to be getting 5V as you stated? I’m getting 4.94V
 
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