swap/upgrades to front calipers

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sewlow

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It's a improvement over the originals, and any improvement to these &^%$#@! crap brakes the 1/2 tons come with, can't hurt. The upgrade will help you stop shorter, with better modulation, and a firmer pedal feel. Not so mushy & vague.
 

TruckinAin4Sissies

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ok so the 8600gvw 2500 calipers with stock 1500 pads and rotors and brackets correct

my brakes should still have plenty of life left, i just want to replace both calipers and lines to hopefully help with the 3/4 ton rear brakes

Correct. Seeing how you're ONLY switching out the Caliper you'll be fine, as long as you don't get the pads contaminated with oil/grease.
 

DRAGGIN95

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If you really want to stop well, swap to hydroboost, run 1 ton front caliper's, rear disc swap, I also use a proportioning valve from a 03 DISC/DISC Yukon, and braided lines all around, it will stop on a dime! This is how my 95 is done.
 

TruckinAin4Sissies

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If you really want to stop well, swap to hydroboost, run 1 ton front caliper's, rear disc swap, I also use a proportioning valve from a 03 DISC/DISC Yukon, and braided lines all around, it will stop on a dime! This is how my 95 is done.

That'd be the way to go. I'm actually looking into the EXACT SETUP.
 

DRAGGIN95

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I have swapped hydroboost on several truck's that had no other mod's to their brakes, the difference is amazing, of course you are almost doubling the brake force psi coming from unit itself.
 

DRAGGIN95

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Sure, when you do a hydroboost swap, you need the hydroboost unit itself, a hydroboost master cylinder because it has a smaller OD bore to fit in the hydro unit, 3 hydroboost lines 2 are pressure and one is return. You also need a brass tee to tie in to your existing return line between your steering gear and power steering pump, you can swap to hydroboost power steering pump that has an extra return fitting on it but there is no need to unless you want to do it, the tee method work's just fine. You also must use the matching hydroboost brake pedal, the brake pushrod pin is in a different location on the hydro. pedal. If I am pulling everything that I need for the swap at the salvage yard I make sure to grab the brake pedal out of the same truck. This whole swap can be done in a couple of hour's providing that yuou have a helper to help bleed your brakes.
 

sewlow

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So what's involved in the pedal swap? Fairly srtaight forward or do I have pull a bunch of the dash apart? Not that that's a big deal, just want to know what I'm up against.
 
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