Swapping front diff help

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jamesdking

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That’s what I did. I put the donor replacement actuator into diff (original) before removing the original diff and drove it in 4. And it engaged into both 4 and 4lo fine. My battery was dead the next morning but I think that was a coincidence. Like dead dead. Warranty covered it. I hope I didn’t have anything to do with an electrical issue I caused by using the other actuator but I doubt it.

So I took the original actuator and put it into the donor diff and today I finally did the R&R.

You do not have to remove the center link as some you tube videos suggested. But it is a funky twist that took two ppl. So if you’re using a jack to support it you probably gotta remove the center link.

Anyway we got it in and tested it at driveway speeds and it engaged into 4 and 4lo just fine. It snowed tonight so I took it to the store and put it in 4hi for the straight part of the road. It still starts grinding exactly like before around 25 mph. I’m pretty bummed since I realize I guessed what the noise was. I’m hoping it may need an actuator since that hasn’t changed in the process. I hate to throw more cash at it so I may try swapping the donor actuator in for a drive tomorrow.

I had suspicions about the transfer case but the noise really comes from the front right. Like you can almost hear and feel it from that direction.

Maybe I go get a new actuator and give it a try. Maybe I just hope I never need 4x4 over 25 mph. I bet I know what the noise was when it breaks all the way. ‍♂️♂️

I’m rambling. Thanks guys
 

jamesdking

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Actuator swapped. Functions as should. Still horrible loud grinding noise above 25mph and when it first engages ( I never had my window down) it makes a squeaking suction noise like somebody loudly slurping a noodle. For about 2 seconds.

What I’m trying to figure out is how to further diagnose this. My fear is that it’s transfer case related all along despite it making the noice up front and not under my seat.

Would removing the front drive shaft and putting it in 4 confirm anything? Maybe if I disconnected the actuator to the diff so only the transfer case was engaged. Or better unplug the actuator and plug it into the extra one and put that in a ziplock baggie and out of the way with a zip tie. That way the electronics all think it’s working but only the transfer case is physically involved.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated. I’m not doing a very good job at this myself so far…
 

evilunclegrimace

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Put it on a lift or 4 jack stands and get some one to run it in gear while you listen for your noise from outside the truck.
 

jamesdking

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I did that early on in this. It all seemed smooth as butter without a load. We weren’t exactly flooring it but I felt like we had made all the parts move sufficiently.

I’ve almost considered hanging out the front and rear doors while someone drove and tried to listen with a hose or some crazy stuff at this point. It’s not really worth a lot to take it to a mechanic and I’m stubborn
 
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jamesdking

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I better finish what I started. Don’t use guesses kids. I know better…

The noise was definitely the transfer case. It was covered in muck from leaking both at the seals and a hole from the famous pump inside rubbing. It ran low and while I havnt opened it up yet to see the sparkles inside I replaced it with a known good one and replaced the pump plate as well.

Removal and replacement is fairly straightforward once you move the frame crossmember a few inches towards the transmission. We left the trans mount attached but removed all the bolts and nuts to give it lots of play. Supported the trans with a floor jack and the Transfer case slipped out with a bit of a twist. There’s 4 wire clips to remove as well as we somehow unclipped one more from the harness at the very top of the T case. Missed that one and it went into limp mode because it couldn’t see the speed sensors. No speedo/2ng gear etc.

Anywho I hate seeing forum topics left open so that’s it. Don’t use the wallet wrench! Even if you can hear what seems to be the problem. Sigh…
 
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