stalled when trying to restart starts cranking normal then acts as if timing way advanced

[east302]

what I need to know is what controls the timing that would have suddenly changed with no warning.

Here are the pages from the ‘98 service manual that cover the ignition timing basics. Maybe something will stand out.

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One thought, if the coolant temperature sensor is flaking (sending a really oddball low number to the computer) it can cause a hard start. Putting the gas to the floor while cranking puts it in clear flood mode, temporarily stopping injector flow. A quick test, in other words.

The throttle position sensor is another input in calculating the air-fuel ratio. The signal voltage should be under 1.25V when throttle is closed. If it is reporting higher than that, it could be forcing a clear flood mode - so no injector flow.

Assuming that you have good consistent blue spark at all eight, have you checked the fuel pressure? Spec is 60-66 psi at the test port on the driver side. Have you tried a shot of starting fluid down the TB?

 

[Charlie Bryan]

After doing a bit of research, it appears that your ignition is different than mine. This would be my new advice. check the crank sensor for any metal buildup on it. This can throw strange data to the computer. Look for faulty wires from the sensor to the VCM. The VCM could be faulty. The crank sensor could be faulty. The ICM could be faulty. I would start with the sensor first. Without a scan tool you will have to check the obvious things first. My new information is coming from a diagram from a 97. Hope this helps. I understand frustrating issues like this. I replaced a bunch of parts all at once to make sure an old truck that i bought would be reliable. It ran like crap afterwards. One of the parts I bought was a cheap distributor from Amazon. I replaced a bunch of parts trying to figure it out. It turns out the distributor was junk. Even though it was brand new, it was garbage. I refused to believe it was bad and finally broke down and got a good one. Turns out - that was it. So my point is... I feel your pain.

I had a Cadillac I was working on for my neighbor. It did about the same thing after the trans was repaired. Turns out the trans shop cut all the grounds and the ecm was going wild !
I reconnected the grounds after clearing the codes and it ran great.

 

[cngodfather]

Throw in a coil-in-cap HEI distributor, carb, and intake. Fixed!

 

[54vicky]

I appreciate your posting the manual portion pertaining to ignition.as to the fuel pressure that would probably make it crank without starting but my problem is the cranking dragging down with coil(spark)plugged in unplug and it resumes cranking at normal rate plug in coil and it almost immediately it drags down again.as I have stated before it seems as if the timing is advanced to much.but I have double and triple checked TDC pulled TC cover to make sure the damper had not spun also the chain had not jumped I realize some would not remove TC cover but doing so proved the chain was not the problem.checking the spark at each cylinder is impossible until I can get it to crank without dragging down when it kicks the starter out it does so violently afraid it will break the nose off starter or worse.at least you understood what I wrote so reading is not a lost art

Here are the pages from the ‘98 service manual that cover the ignition timing basics. Maybe something will stand out.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

One thought, if the coolant temperature sensor is flaking (sending a really oddball low number to the computer) it can cause a hard start. Putting the gas to the floor while cranking puts it in clear flood mode, temporarily stopping injector flow. A quick test, in other words.

The throttle position sensor is another input in calculating the air-fuel ratio. The signal voltage should be under 1.25V when throttle is closed. If it is reporting higher than that, it could be forcing a clear flood mode - so no injector flow.

Assuming that you have good consistent blue spark at all eight, have you checked the fuel pressure? Spec is 60-66 psi at the test port on the driver side. Have you tried a shot of starting fluid down the TB?

 

[54vicky]

if you understood the system you would know this is not a viable option.the carb manifold and linkage alone would take that option away.

Throw in a coil-in-cap HEI distributor, carb, and intake. Fixed!

 

[54vicky]

you are right about the grounds went through that and does not require a Fing scanner just patience tracing them down

I had a Cadillac I was working on for my neighbor. It did about the same thing after the trans was repaired. Turns out the trans shop cut all the grounds and the ecm was going wild !
I reconnected the grounds after clearing the codes and it ran great.

 

[cngodfather]

if you understood the system you would know this is not a viable option.the carb manifold and linkage alone would take that option away.

Don't doubt your abilities. Where there is a will--there is a way. You can make anything work if you try hard enough. I can make a car run just by having a midget blow gas through a straw directly into the engine if i wanted to.

 

[cngodfather]

I do not mean to offend anyone of the vertically challenged. I merely mentioned "midgets" because of the feasibility of fitting them in the engine compartment. You can't put kids in there. I believe there are laws against that.

 

[cngodfather]

All joking aside. Is this an optispark distributor?

 

[texas tough]

take all of the plugs out and check spark from each plug, to ground. with all of the plugs out, there should be no binding due to crossfire. everything is saying theres a problem with the distributor or cap.