stalled when trying to restart starts cranking normal then acts as if timing way advanced

[54vicky]

as title states in attempt to rectify replaced following distributor (it had a new ac aluminium)crank sensor with a good working one also a coil and module off working engine (all parts off working engine).engine cranks still same problem.if I unplug the coil wire it seems to crank at a normal speed.plug in coil it starts to crank normal then it almost instantly slows as if timing is advanced too much.unplug coil it returns to cranking as normal.I also pulled (and broke)plastic timing chain cover every thing look perfect as to dots lined up as should no slop in chain.when checking rotor position it points at #1 as well as damper pointing at one at TDC.I am old school (points and carb)but handy.I am at a loss what it could be when it stalled it was being parked (slow speed).working outside and a major snow storm on way and bitter coldby that I mean will not be able to do any time consuming trouble shooting.new TC coming today or monday.I should add that after installing new distributor in october it had 1345 code but started and ran good so delayed having someone put on scanner.I have no one I trust to do that.not sure if that has any bearing on this problem.looking forward to responses hopefully this is filed properly if not let me know TY

 

[texas tough]

IS IT GETTING SPARK?

autozone will scan it for free.

 

[texas tough]

are u sure the distributor is turning when u crank the engine over? also the distributor cap assemblies are very prone to failure,, do a good visual inspection, if in any doubt , replace it.

 

[54vicky]

distributor is turning and in phase with crank with cap is brand new but changed it for a known good one as I said everything that I know of to do with spark has been changed to known good ones.I am sure of the spark because as I said the minute you plug in coil the engine starts to act like timing is advanced to much unplug and it cranks fine.and you can see and hear the coil sparking when it is unplugged forgot to mention wires are new along with coil wire.we do not have autozone up here and if we did I would need to have it running to take it there.

 

[Schurkey]

MIght be nice if you'd list WHAT ENGINE and WHAT VEHICLE this is. I have to assume it's a Vortec, likely a small-block, but it could be a V-6, 5L, 5.7L, or 7.4. I'm pretending this is a 5.0 or 5.7 until I'm told differently.

I should add that after installing new distributor in october it had 1345 code

You have classic symptoms of spark jumping from the distributor rotor to the WRONG distributor cap terminal. "Crossfire" from #5 to #7 is the most harmful; when #5 is supposed to fire it has compression and the voltage needed to jump the gap is relatively high. #7 has fuel and air, but little cylinder pressure. The #7 spark plug gap is easily bridged, electricity takes the path of least resistance, and when the mixture in #7 is lit instead of #5, it'll tend to push the crank backwards.

Crossfire would be more likely if the distributor is turned too far one way or the other.

That's what P1345 signifies. You NEED to get the distributor aligned properly; and the easiest way is with a scan tool.

Fix this before you break a piston or a starter housing, or shear teeth of the starter drive or ring gear.

If I had no scan tool (It's crazy to try to work on computer-controlled vehicles without one) I would attempt to "wing-it" by moving the distributor clockwise as seen from the top. If it got better, drive it to a shop that has a scan tool, and get it fixed properly. If it got worse, turn the distributor the other way and see what happens. The risk here is that you're going to cause real damage by potentially allowing even-worse crossfire.

 

[454cid]

It sounds like the 1345 was something you found earlier, and not current.... so I'm thinking you haven't scanned it recently. I think you have a bad ICM. It's the little black box next to the coil, held in place by two screws, and has one plug. Remove it, and take it up to Autozone to get tested.

Mine is on a heat sink, and I'd assume yours is too. It's going to have some white greasy stuff under it. It's heat sink compound and needs to be there. A new ICM will come with a little packet of it.

 

[JavaMan]

You have classic symptoms of spark jumping from the distributor rotor to the WRONG distributor cap terminal. "Crossfire" from #5 to #7 is the most harmful; when #5 is supposed to fire it has compression and the voltage needed to jump the gap is relatively high. #7 has fuel and air, but little cylinder pressure. The #7 spark plug gap is easily bridged, electricity takes the path of least resistance, and when the mixture in #7 is lit instead of #5, it'll tend to push the crank backwards.

Sad when professional mechanics can't figure out things like that.
We were on vacation when our burb started acting up on the freeway. Took it to the shop. They replaced the MAF, and still had the same misfire that I brought it in for. Three mechanics were screwing with it for a couple hours. I walked over to a nearby parts store, bought a cap, rotor, and wires, went back and asked them to put these new parts on, thinking it would solve their issue. Took them another 4 hours of pulling the distributor and putting it back to get the timing right so we could go.
They kept working an hour and a half past posted closing time to get it working though. We only missed the first night of our three day reservation for vacation.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Jason_Staggs]

I think you have a bad ICM. It's the little black box next to the coil, held in place by two screws, and has one plug.

I could be wrong, isn't the ICM the little module under the cap? Held by two Itty bitty screws two external plugs one inside the cap. But like I said I could very well be wrong.

 

[Jason_Staggs]

If you're 100% sure you got your distributor and everything in time, I'd try unplugging the electronic advance and seeing if it fires right like that. Also, not doubting your knowledge or anything, but just because it worked on one engine doesn't mean when you took it out you didn't jostle it just right and messed up one of the contacts on the cap or the rotor. I'm just spit balling trying to introduce new ideas to check. Mine was acting up I thought it was my cap and rotor took them off to check, and it had some corrosion. Reinstalled it immediately after and it wouldn't even fire. Ended up having to buy a whole new distributor because mine was corroded and I broke both screws that hold the ignition module in (those teeny tiny screws that have the tensile strength of a piece of dry spaghetti). But my problem ended up being a fuel pump, more than likely not your problem, but like I said, spit balling.

 

[454cid]

I could be wrong, isn't the ICM the little module under the cap? Held by two Itty bitty screws two external plugs one inside the cap. But like I said I could very well be wrong.

I believe the TBI ICM is under the cap, but the OP must be working on an OBD2 Vortec engine to get a P1345. So you guessed correctly, that you're wrong

The screws are small, Though.... the heads aren't very tall so it's hard to keep a socket on them.