Setting the distributor

[PlayingWithTBI]

If you can't turn it by the crank, unless you have ultra high compression, you have other problems internally.

I've backed off the nuts on the rocker arms, and its somewhat trying to fire

I'm guessing you're 180* off.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

You are aware that the crank has to turn 2 times for the cam to turn once,correct?

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

Yeah. I didn't jump into changing head and intake gaskets without an understanding of what I was getting myself into. I got it running now. Got some ticking to take care of, but it's running. Had to back off all the rocker arm nuts to get the compression back, and I forgot that I had to rotate all of my plug wires over 1 spot on the distributor cap. Didn't find that part out til about a week after I bought it and gave it a tune up. It's running rough, but that's to be expected after almost 2 weeks of sitting with temporary open headers and the temp drop from 75° to 35° in 2 days. Now I can take care of the valve lash, put my timing light on it, and finally set the distributor exactly where it needs to be. I appreciate the input

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[Dennis Wilkie]

You are aware that the crank has to turn 2 times for the cam to turn once,correct?

If you can't turn it by the crank, unless you have ultra high compression, you have other problems internally.

I'm guessing you're 180* off.

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[Dennis Wilkie]

High pitched whine from the starter? Do you mean that it's not cranking over and there's a whine from the starter? If so, the problem isn't your timing, it's something keeping your engine from turning over. Are you able to turn the engine over by hand? Pull your plugs, grab a socket and a breaker bar, and turn that balancer bolt with an *appropriate* amount of force. If it doesn't turn, something's in the way.

I wasn't getting compression. Had to back the rocker arm nuts off and it cranked right up after the plug wire rotation. #1 had to go to #2, #2 to #7 etc... It was a combination of the 2, but once the valves were opening and closing normally it all came back together pretty quick

 

[Spookers]

The way the guy does it in the video is cool but I'd make sure the lifters are on the base circle and adjust each valve once, jumping around all Willy nilly can make it easy to mess up. Personally most of the time I do it with the engine running, sure you might get a couple drips but you won't get the chaos the guy describes unles you're revving it up. It shouldn't stall unless you have a aggressive or burnt cam. Personally I check when the tic goes away about 2-3 times to ensure its the same spot then tighten 1/4 turn. This should only take about 5min to set them all.

When you set base timing make sure you unplug the esc wire inside the cab before starting. I using a timing light set the advance between 10* and 14* (14 worked best for me). Tighten down the distributor and recheck the timing if all is good re connect the esc wire and drive on.

 

[Schurkey]

I had to rotate all of my plug wires over 1 spot on the distributor cap.

Were they on the cap properly before? If they were, the distributor still isn't installed (indexed) properly. The gear mesh is probably one tooth off.

If they are on the cap properly now, the distributor wasn't installed properly before--or--someone screwed-up when poking the wires onto the cap at some point.

It's running rough, but that's to be expected after almost 2 weeks of sitting with temporary open headers and the temp drop from 75° to 35° in 2 days.

None of that has any effect on "running rough".

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

I've got it all pretty much smoothed out now. It just took a little longer than expected. But yeah, the plugs were already moved over 1 when I got the truck, so they, and the distributor are all back in the right place. I adjusted the distributor with my timing light on it, and it's running and sounding pretty good at 600 rpm and 12° before tdc. No more tapping and it cranks up every time with minimal effort. Just ordered both compression and vacuum test kits so I can figure my options out from there. My buddy keeps trying to talk me into putting a Whipple with a Holley double pumper he's got on it, but i'm not ready to go down that road...yet

 

[DerekTheGreat]

That's far too much advance, that or you are indeed off a tooth.. The ECM will "see" the timing advance courtesy of the knock sensor and just pull it out anyway, and it'll do so to the point it'll actually hurt power and MPG. Set the timing to 0* like the factory intended (be sure to do this with the ESC wire disconnected).

That truck doesn't need a "double pumper." No extra bald eagles will be gained from flushing a toilet on top of a stock/mild engine.

 

[Dennis Wilkie]

The motor came out of an '87 vette and only has about 10k miles on it, with a comp cam and aluminum heads with 3704 edelbrock performer intake.