Agreed. WHAT IS YOUR BASE (initial) TIMING with the wire disconnected?
Setting the distributor
- Thread starter Dennis Wilkie
- Start date
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Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
I'll have to check that out tomorrow. Those headers with the wide open 3 inch pipes and dual Magnaflow mufflers are pretty loud from what the neighbors tell me. It kinda shakes the ground a lil bit when I start it up
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Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
I had it set and started it up at 0 with the etc disconnected. Then I reconnected it and adjusted the distributor to where it's at now
Good that you got it running well but it's not right. You need to data log and tune it. I would guess you're running lean at higher MAPs and it may be pulling spark due to KCs. The ECM can only adjust your VE tables so far so, you're INT and BLM may be off too.
Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
With headers, 3 inch pipes, and no cats, there's no way the mixtures are right. Especially considering the people who put all of this together before I got it. You wouldn't believe the things i've come across with this truck. Hell, there was a 1/4 inch gap in the exhaust flanges with only 2 bolts barely holding it together, and no O2 sensor. I had to replace the entire emissions system before I could even get it to stay running. It didn't even have the right ecm in it. Every sensor, every hose, and every wire under that hood was useless. It didn't even have the pcv valves in it. Just 2 open holes with a rag stuffed in it. Not to mention, the transmission cooler was cracked, transmission lines were pieced together and leaking, it had no oil cooler, thermostat didn't work, none of the gauges worked, still has no rear brake system, lights didn't work, it had dry rotted trailer tires on it...the list goes on and on. IAC was frozen without a gasket and the wires were just twisted up without a pigtail. Everything was rtv'd and zip tied, some of the plug wires were burnt, I literally had to replace the entire front end...i've got a hell of alot of effort, time, and money put into this thing, and I couldn't tell you much more than how to change the oil on a vehicle before all of this. Now I can almost build one from the ground up. I'm the type of person that has to have everything functioning as it should, that way any future problems are easier to pinpoint. I'm about to attempt to break this 02 sensor that's welded itself into the header loose right now. Not really a big deal, but there wouldn't be a place for it if didn't serve a purpose. At least that's how I look at it. This truck has been a nightmare since day 1
Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
Gotta be pretty close to right. The timing used to make the check engine light come on. Haven't seen it in 2 days
HOW do you know the Check Engine light was triggered by timing, and not by something else?
Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
Because the light came on when I turned the distributor in the wrong position, even though I thought it sounded good, and it went right back off after I set it right. With a little higher idle and slightly more advanced. I thought it would have been due to the lack of an O2 sensor above anything else, since it used to only came on when I ran it at about 50 mph for about 30 seconds or more. But if I killed it and immediately started it back up, the light would be off. Now it doesn't have that problem at all, it just stays off. I haven't done anything else to it since the timing adjustment
Dennis Wilkie
I'm Awesome
Plugs and inside the headers before the collector have a chocolate milk color to them. Not too white and not too dark. I'll figure out a little more tomorrow when I run a full vacuum and fuel pressure test
Did you pull any of the codes when the SES light came on?
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