Reman alternators are JUNK!

[Kran]

get ACDelco New parts or something from a reputable alternator builder like Brand X, Custom Electric Service in Ohio, or DC Power Inc, or Singer Alternators. they all make high output versions up to 370 amps in a large case that is bolt-in, but they all also offer smaller units, sub 200 amps, that will work just fine.

 

[scottydl]

It looks like Rock Auto sells a new ac delco for you truck for $75.

I saw this myself and was quite surprised... I may buy one just to have handy if/when I need it. I expected a higher price for OEM, considering I paid more than that for these "Made in Malaysia" versions from Advance Auto.

The battery was replaced on this last round too, so if there was any associated problem there... maybe that will be solved. Heck I'd be thrilled if that were the case. I take no pleasure in the inconvenience of these frequent alternator swaps, especially since the last spontaneous failure was about 1-2 blocks from leaving me stranded somewhere.

As far as testing, I've relied on the process/equipment that Advance Auto uses... so I can't tell you much more than that. The incoming wiring/connector looks fine, but I guess there could be an internal connection issue that I cannot see. I suppose I could replace that pigtail too just to be safe, assuming/hoping it would not be too difficult.

 

[skylark]

I'll use a common example that I see in the shop. A typical diy guy replaces his alternator because it went bad. 10-12 months later it goes bad again and it gets warrantied. Another one goes in in 4-6 months and shortly thereafter the battery dies due to all of those junk alternators. Suddenly alternator #3 must have finally been "a good one".

Here is what really happened based upon what we see in the shop. Alternator #1 died due to a 700 cold crank amp battery putting out 500 cca after 3-4 years. #2 died around 400 cca. #3 only lived because 300 cca isn't enough to start the truck and alternator #3 got a reprieve and didn't get beat to death having to try to charge a marginal battery.

The other scenario that we see are connection issues, ie loose, corroded wires/terminals or crappy grounds.
We use O'Reilly, Carquest, Autozone, 2 other local parts houses and Napa in that order. Napa is last because they pissed me off not because of parts quality. The local guys are towards the end because I can't access them on my system so I have to call them.

 

[Schurkey]

get ACDelco New parts

I saw this myself and was quite surprised... I may buy one just to have handy if/when I need it. I expected a higher price for OEM, considering I paid more than that for these "Made in Malaysia" versions from Advance Auto.

AC-Delco is a sales organization, not a manufacturing organization. They have four "lines" of parts. (Advantage, Professional, OEM, and "something else".) The lower-end lines are the SAME stuff you can get under fifty other brand names, sourced from whatever hell-hole is cheapest this month. Only the "OEM-quality" line is the "real" quality line; and even then you have to be careful.

As far as testing, I've relied on the process/equipment that Advance Auto uses... so I can't tell you much more than that. The incoming wiring/connector looks fine, but I guess there could be an internal connection issue that I cannot see. I suppose I could replace that pigtail too just to be safe, assuming/hoping it would not be too difficult.

TEST, don't replace.

What "process/equipment" does Advance Auto have? Far as I know, the only things they test would be the alternator, battery, and starter motor, and they do that testing off-the-car so none of the vehicle wiring is tested. Are you saying you had them test the alternator, battery, and starter?

I'll use a common example...

Yep, it's a system of inter-dependence, when one thing dies, the other parts are in jeopardy. Failures cascade.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Don't know how it is in the rest of the country, but this is what my family learned in many years of having an auto parts store in Houston, Texas. Any battery, no matter how many CCA, is suspect after 3 years of service. The heat and humidity down here will take them down! Also the first time it gets really cold/damp after a while of warm, or vice versa, marginal batteries or starting/charging systems will make themselves known. And one bad part or connection will domino if left unfixed. That said, l know it's not always feasible to fix something right away, especially if you're DD'ing the vehicle or working outside. Thankfully the GMT400 series is usually more forgiving of their owners ' lapses....

 

[98 Nitro]

Chiming along with what others are saying a new serpentine belt and tensioner go a long way with a battery and alternator.

 

[stutaeng]

I'll use a common example that I see in the shop. A typical diy guy replaces his alternator because it went bad. 10-12 months later it goes bad again and it gets warrantied. Another one goes in in 4-6 months and shortly thereafter the battery dies due to all of those junk alternators. Suddenly alternator #3 must have finally been "a good one".

Here is what really happened based upon what we see in the shop. Alternator #1 died due to a 700 cold crank amp battery putting out 500 cca after 3-4 years. #2 died around 400 cca. #3 only lived because 300 cca isn't enough to start the truck and alternator #3 got a reprieve and didn't get beat to death having to try to charge a marginal battery.

The other scenario that we see are connection issues, ie loose, corroded wires/terminals or crappy grounds.
We use O'Reilly, Carquest, Autozone, 2 other local parts houses and Napa in that order. Napa is last because they pissed me off not because of parts quality. The local guys are towards the end because I can't access them on my system so I have to call them.

Wait, so weak battery kill alternators? I didn't know that...

As has been stated, down here "good" batteries last like 3 years. It's almost like clockwork.

When I bought my k3500 it needed a new battery and went to AutoZone. They only had a cheap battery with 1 year warranty. I cringed, but didn't want to drive elsewhere (mistake.) Well, it lasted about 18 months...

The problem is they fail and don't give you hardly any warning. In the old days they would start acting up, giving you a chance to make it somewhere. Browsing the autoparts website, they now batteries with 60 day warranty, lol!

Batteries lasted like 20 years, now they last 3-4 years. Thanks EPA.

 

[Gary Mettus]

My experience with parts store batteries:
Autozone's are terrible but I've been lucky and they've died in warranty. I always keep receipt in glove box and with the replacements I've gotten 5-6 years of total life.
Advance Auto's are great and I've gotten 7 years of life out of them.
I don't remember ever getting 20 years of life out of any battery but then again I'm only 55 years old

 

[someotherguy]

20 years sounds like some revisionist history but 10 years isn't unheard of from an OEM battery. It's definitely towards the ragged edge of trustworthy, but they're out there.

Richard

 

[454cid]

20 years sounds like some revisionist history but 10 years isn't unheard of from an OEM battery. It's definitely towards the ragged edge of trustworthy, but they're out there.

Richard

I just replaced the battery in my Saturn....had 2009 on the side. It was some sort of Duralast. I was amazed as I had gotten it after it had sat unused/dead for awhile. I charged it on the 2amp setting on my charger for two days. I used it for several months before I decided i really needed to replace it.