Rear axle seal job

[Schurkey]

Takes three seconds to pop the wheel seal OUT using the differential end of the axle shaft.

See Post #3.

Again, make sure the bearing surface on the axle shaft is in pristine condition. Any excess wear, roughness, scoring, pitting...that shaft is DONE and you need to replace the bearing, too.

 

[joe toto]

You will need to pull the brake drum, then the rear end cover to access the C clips so that you can pull the axels. I used a pry tool to remove the old seals. It can be a little hard to get the new seals to seat in place. A pipe , be it steel, or even PVC, about the same size as the outer lip of the seal and a hammer is all you need to install the new seals. There are a ton if videos on you tube about gm 8.5 10 bolt axel rebuilds. I just rebuilt my rear end about 2 months ago. I was supprised that it wasnt easer to set these seals in place. I tried just a hammer and tapping them in place but that didnt work. It took a piece of pipe to get the job done.

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Thanks this is very helpful. Your truck is sweet by the way!

 

[joe toto]

To add to everybody heres some pics for an idea.
X2 on renting tools. I bought my tools from amazon and the bearing puller barely worked and the seal driver worked great. So theres hit and miss with them. Renting at least it's free and you can return it if its wrong

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Also as a side tip. With the shoes off you can put a small chisel to the edge of the wheel seal and work it out slowly

I can't explain how helpful this is, thanks! I was planning on giving the rear end the beans and replace all the break components like you did.

 

[joe toto]

Takes three seconds to pop the wheel seal OUT using the differential end of the axle shaft.

See Post #3.

Again, make sure the bearing surface on the axle shaft is in pristine condition. Any excess wear, roughness, scoring, pitting...that shaft is DONE and you need to replace the bearing, too.

heard you loud and clear, thanks

 

[kennythewelder]

Thanks this is very helpful. Your truck is sweet by the way!

Thanks. It runs good too. The 373s and Eaton truetrac made it that much more responsive. Its also a lot better on wet roads. It rains here a lot.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I can't explain how helpful this is, thanks! I was planning on giving the rear end the beans and replace all the break components like you did.

Np. Take your time, inspect every component and look at your backing plate. They tend to get dug into and hang up the brake shoes. Make sure there a smooth surface. And make sure you know your brake size. Theres multiple sizes gm used for these trucks

 

[highwaystar]

[QUOTE="east302,“ Also mark each brake drum at a lug nut so you’ll know to put it back on at the same orientation. “

What the heck are you saying here?? You need to elaborate this statement!

 

[Schurkey]

[QUOTE="east302,“ Also mark each brake drum at a lug nut so you’ll know to put it back on at the same orientation. “

What the heck are you saying here?? You need to elaborate this statement!

Put the brake drum back on, in the same relative position it was before you took it off.

 

[highwaystar]

Put the brake drum back on, in the same relative position it was before you took it off.

I “know” what the words mean. There is no reason as to why he is saying it! It does not matter how you clock a brake drum when reinstalling it. Drums are balanced independently.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I “know” what the words mean. There is no reason as to why he is saying it! It does not matter how you clock a brake drum when reinstalling it. Drums are balanced independently.

That's what I thought lol. Otherwise I messed up whenever I did my rear brakes . I wonder if the weights are suppose to be opposite on each side or something