Pushrod problem

[Alexisobs95]

If you did it with the engine running how far did you crank them down? Or did you set it with the engine off?

Well I just tightened adjusted them while engine was off kept turning the engine until every valve opened

 

[run96k3500]

Following as I’m going through the process of installing new heads and I didn’t know about this since there doesn’t seem like there much to do with the rocker stud/nut[emoji2373]


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[Alexisobs95]

Following as I’m going through the process of installing new heads and I didn’t know about this since there doesn’t seem like there much to do with the rocker stud/nut[emoji2373]


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Maybe I need shorter pushrods or I could try another set of stock pushrods but don’t wanna waste money if there gonna bend again

 

[Schurkey]

You need to VERIFY clearance at several places--piston to valve, retainer to seal, retainer to rocker arm, and spring coil-bind. It's likely that P-to-V clearance is good. No promises on the others.

You need to VERIFY that you haven't already bent valves or broken valve springs and valve stem seals (or the top of the valve guide) along with the pushrods.

Well I just tightened adjusted them while engine was off kept turning the engine until every valve opened

You need to set lifter preload PROPERLY. There's a dozen different procedures, and they pretty-much all work just fine--IF (big IF) you can find the "zero lash" point.

And when you can reliably find the zero-lash point, you'll want to verify that your pushrods are the proper length--although stock length is probably correct or at least close.

 

[smokymtn65]

Assuming you have the stock motor, not a LS transplant. Borrowed from Pace Perf.

GM SMALL BLOCK VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Valves can be set on a hot or cold engine. A cold engine is a lot more comfortable to work on. Major camshaft manufacturers recommend setting valves cold, to avoid erroneous adjustments on lifters that may be "pumped up" If you are setting valves on a fresh engine that has not been run, everything should be well lubricated before you begin.

2. Remove both valve covers and remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn over. Also, If you are setting valves on all cylinders, it is generally easier and less confusing to just loosen all of the rocker arm adjustment nuts before you begin. This also allows for all of the internal lifter plungers to return to their "home" position.

3. Using a long handled ratchet or breaker bar attached to the crank bolt, turn the engine over in the clockwise direction.

• A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.
  
• B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
  
  

1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the slightest bit of resistance.

2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn.

• C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve. You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the same intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters are at the base circle of the cam and that there is no additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point.
  
• D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.
  
  

4) Re-install your valve covers and your valve adjustment procedure is finished

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

By looking at your name I'm guessing you have a 95 with a TBI engine? Get yourself a push rod length checker to confirm what length you need.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-9001

But as Schurkey said, you need to check your clearances too.

 

[Alexisobs95]

By looking at your name I'm guessing you have a 95 with a TBI engine? Get yourself a push rod length checker to confirm what length you need.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-9001

But as Schurkey said, you need to check your clearances too.

Sorry that was another truck I had the one I own is a 97

 

[JeremyNH]

What did you mean by "upgrade springs"? To go to higher lift with stock Vortecs yes you need the right springs but just as important you need the right retainers. The retainers (Comp 787-16) are what actually gives you the added clearance without machining the seats. Without those retainers you'll bind up on the valve seals and bend the rods.

 

[Alexisobs95]

What did you mean by "upgrade springs"? To go to higher lift with stock Vortecs yes you need the right springs but just as important you need the right retainers. The retainers (Comp 787-16) are what actually gives you the added clearance without machining the seats. Without those retainers you'll bind up on the valve seals and bend the rods.

Well I upgraded springs and changed the cam like I was told to never new I needed the retainers for clearance so your saying if I change the retainers I’m not having no more bended pushrods ?

 

[Alexisobs95]

What did you mean by "upgrade springs"? To go to higher lift with stock Vortecs yes you need the right springs but just as important you need the right retainers. The retainers (Comp 787-16) are what actually gives you the added clearance without machining the seats. Without those retainers you'll bind up on the valve seals and bend the rods.

This are the specs on the springs I was given do those retainers fit my springs or Wich do you recommend to install on my springs ?
SPECS :
Free Length : 2.404"
Outside Diameter : 1.260"
Inside Diameter : .876"
Wire Size : .192"
Closed Pressure : 110# @ 1.700"
Open Pressure : 285# @ 1.210"
Coils : 6.5 RH Turn
Solid Height : 1.160"
Single Spring With Damper
Good For Up To .500" Lift