Pushrod problem

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Alexisobs95

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Are you using stock pushrods? So called "upgraded" pushrods tend to be very marginally longer. Example the Comp 7808 "high energy" push rods are sold for Vortecs and will normally work but the stock Vortec length is 0.010" shorter, 7.205" vs 7.195". You're at the limit of what the Vortec heads can handle and 0.010" is enough to go from "should be OK" to "not OK".
So I can just buy the stock push rod and rea adjust the rockers again ?
 

Supercharged111

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You need to measure how much lift the valve can tolerate before hitting the valve stem seals. I found that, with .460" intake/.480" exhaust lift, I had something like .050" clearance on the exhaust on my 98. I too replaced my valve seals and beat them down fully seated which is supposedly a no no. It got me more lift clearance on my stock retainers and keepers. You first need to find out WHY you "bended" your pushrods.
 

Alexisobs95

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You need to measure how much lift the valve can tolerate before hitting the valve stem seals. I found that, with .460" intake/.480" exhaust lift, I had something like .050" clearance on the exhaust on my 98. I too replaced my valve seals and beat them down fully seated which is supposedly a no no. It got me more lift clearance on my stock retainers and keepers. You first need to find out WHY you "bended" your pushrods.
Yeah that’s what I want to know why they bended probably bad adjustment don’t really thinks so I went today to the shop that sold me the cam but the guy wasn’t there ima go tomorrow again to see what I can do because I don’t think I can return the springs it has and get the beehive ones
 

Alexisobs95

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You need to measure how much lift the valve can tolerate before hitting the valve stem seals. I found that, with .460" intake/.480" exhaust lift, I had something like .050" clearance on the exhaust on my 98. I too replaced my valve seals and beat them down fully seated which is supposedly a no no. It got me more lift clearance on my stock retainers and keepers. You first need to find out WHY you "bended" your pushrods.
Also checked if the valve seals messed up they seem to be good and no valves where bended neither
 

run96k3500

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Assuming you have the stock motor, not a LS transplant. Borrowed from Pace Perf.

GM SMALL BLOCK VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Valves can be set on a hot or cold engine. A cold engine is a lot more comfortable to work on. Major camshaft manufacturers recommend setting valves cold, to avoid erroneous adjustments on lifters that may be "pumped up" If you are setting valves on a fresh engine that has not been run, everything should be well lubricated before you begin.

2. Remove both valve covers and remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn over. Also, If you are setting valves on all cylinders, it is generally easier and less confusing to just loosen all of the rocker arm adjustment nuts before you begin. This also allows for all of the internal lifter plungers to return to their "home" position.

3. Using a long handled ratchet or breaker bar attached to the crank bolt, turn the engine over in the clockwise direction.

  • A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.
  • B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.

1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the slightest bit of resistance.

2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn.

  • C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve. You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the same intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters are at the base circle of the cam and that there is no additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point.
  • D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.

4) Re-install your valve covers and your valve adjustment procedure is finished

Does this apply for the Vortec 454?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dogged365

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This is a “all stop” situation....you must verify that the new cam is installed correctly ..that the timing marks are in proper alignment....usually bent pushrods = bent valves..inspect rocker studs for signs of mechanical bind..do a leak down type compression test with all the rocker arms removed to check for bent valves...
 

Alexisobs95

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This is a “all stop” situation....you must verify that the new cam is installed correctly ..that the timing marks are in proper alignment....usually bent pushrods = bent valves..inspect rocker studs for signs of mechanical bind..do a leak down type compression test with all the rocker arms removed to check for bent valves...
Valves weren’t bended neither were the valve seals do I need hardened pushrod or will they bend too?
 

Dogged365

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Bent pushrods are usually what happens when the head of the valve contacts the piston....severe rocker arm mechanical bind can jack the rocker stud out of the head...at this point your next step would be to buy or fabricate an adapter that allows you to pressurize each cylinder thru the spark plug hole to check for valve damage....the cylinder won’t hold air with bent valve heads
 

Supercharged111

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Bent pushrods are usually what happens when the head of the valve contacts the piston....severe rocker arm mechanical bind can jack the rocker stud out of the head...at this point your next step would be to buy or fabricate an adapter that allows you to pressurize each cylinder thru the spark plug hole to check for valve damage....the cylinder won’t hold air with bent valve heads

A missed shift or money shift will also bend a valve.
 

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