Panel Bonding?

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letitsnow

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I guess it dosent matter if it is paintable as this is an adhesive and some bondo is guna be necessary to smooth out the edges. right?

I sanded most of the exposed adhesive off, and then needed a very thin layer of filler to smooth the transition. If you plan ahead, and took your time - you might be able to use enough epoxy (in the right places) to not even need filler? I really don't know how that would work, but the thought crossed my mind after I was done...
 

AK 99

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I sanded most of the exposed adhesive off, and then needed a very thin layer of filler to smooth the transition. If you plan ahead, and took your time - you might be able to use enough epoxy (in the right places) to not even need filler? I really don't know how that would work, but the thought crossed my mind after I was done...

It doesn't sand well at all like filler would. But it cleans up great with 36 grit on a small grinder, so it's very useful when there's seams that are supposed to be exposed and sealed. You can just clean up the "squish out" and make it appear as a factory seam.
 

AK 99

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Oh yeah, if you have to do any welding near the panel bonding, do it when the adhesive is still setting up. Otherwise, it can lose it's bite if it's heated up too much after it's cured.
 

Kustombuilt1911

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but panel bonding agents are generally used on hidden seams like where the spot welds would attach panels. Thus not being exposed to heat from the sun. I'd think the difference in expansion between the steel panels & expoy might become visible after being painted when the ambient temperature starts to rise.
 

AK 99

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but panel bonding agents are generally used on hidden seams like where the spot welds would attach panels. Thus not being exposed to heat from the sun. I'd think the difference in expansion between the steel panels & expoy might become visible after being painted when the ambient temperature starts to rise.

I can say with certainty that it is not an issue. At least not with the 3M stuff.
 

Kustombuilt1911

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I do know that lead can leave a "witness" mark where it has been used as a filler when exposed to heat/sunlight. Also when working with fiberglass cars (corvettes, dune buggies, & the like) seams can appear if not done correctly. Unless your using a filler over the epoxy I would expect it to do the same. May not be super visable in a cab corner application since it doesn't recieve direct sun exposure. Call me a skeptic but I'd think it would do the same.
 

AK 99

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I do know that lead can leave a "witness" mark where it has been used as a filler when exposed to heat/sunlight. Also when working with fiberglass cars (corvettes, dune buggies, & the like) seams can appear if not done correctly. Unless your using a filler over the epoxy I would expect it to do the same. May not be super visable in a cab corner application since it doesn't recieve direct sun exposure. Call me a skeptic but I'd think it would do the same.

My 20 years of experience with it tells me that there are no witness marks from it. There is never going to be an exposed area where it can be used without some type of filler over it, unless of course you don't care about a smooth and straight body surface. But if that were the case, you certainly wouldn't care about witness marks either.

But for areas such as a cab corner replacement, it is a perfectly usable product with excellent results. Flange the existing cab side, lay the repair panel overtop the existing and let the adhesive squish out of the seem. When cured, quickly clean up the seam with a grinder and you have a nice even surface to apply a skim coat of quality filler. Follow with quality primer and paint- the repair will never be seen.
 

Kustombuilt1911

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I've used plenty of the Fusor panel bond & its great stuff. I'm sure the 3m is equally as good & could definitely see it used with success in a cab corner situation. Think the key to success is a good filler over it to bury the seam. As long as a good filler is used over the top & then prepped/topcoated with good quality products I could see it working.
 

AK 99

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I don't know about "bury" the seam. With as little as maybe 1/32" of filler over it will cover and not show anything through, even after years of hot sun.
 
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