Trying to pop out rear lower quarter indent 99 suburban

[618 Syndicate]

You like to talk for other men ? Sus? ass kisser

I literally lol'd at this. Had to quote me three times and the best you can come up with is a vague homophobic slur? How old are you, 12?
Yeah I'm going to speak up when someone gets out of pocket, and you absolutely were.

 

[618 Syndicate]

We can do it alllll night here if you wanna think you can say what you want without recourse “SUSAN” ..

Did I hit a nerve?

idc wat kind of miserable moderators level your at . Clearly people know people here and??? So?? Every forum is groupied
I can care lesss

And yet here you are, whining about it. Sure seems like you care...

You can speak for yourself if you have your own issue don’t come at me with name callin

Yet another keyboard tough guy. *Yawn*

 

[Pinger]

I once had a small bike oil tank that was a bit squashed. Blanked off the cap and connected its outlet pipe to an air compressor and inflated it back into shape. Not perfect as the creases were pretty severe on a small panel but enough to look passable (for a dirt bike) and more to the point, restored its capacity.
If that dented panel was on my 'Burb I'd either leave it be (unbroken paint) or try and inflate it out with some sort of bladder inserted through a grommet hole. Might work - might not. No knowing without trying.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I once had a small bike oil tank that was a bit squashed. Blanked off the cap and connected its outlet pipe to an air compressor and inflated it back into shape

I tried that once on a Triumph gas tank. The dent was a crease where the handlebar came around and whacked it. Didn't work out so well for me. I used a regulator and started at 5psi,dent no move. Then 10psi,dent no move. Then 15psi,tank went boom and split it at the lower weld seam.

 

[jjester6000]

The steel is creased and streched and the bottom flange is distorted.
It will not pop out with a suction cup.
Dont worry about saving the paint.
You can go to any decent auto body supply house and give them your paint code and they will make cans of spray paint for you for about 25 bucks each.
Single stage or top clear whatever you want.
On a panel like that that is isolated and below the trim line I wouldnt pay somebody to fix that.
A cheap stud welder or a screw puller and a set of body hammers and some beer and some calm the **** down zen and you can do that yourself.
Most people who try body work screw up because they beat the hell out of the metal and strech it too much.
Little carefully placed sharp taps.
Every time you hit the metal it gets a little hotter and moves a llttle more.
You are kind of on the right track with heat gun idea but it is too small of a surface area to effectively keep that entire surface warm.
you will get much better results from.a quartz radiant heater.
Or even a propane heater from a distance.
Beaches, Cars, Wifes , pizza and socks.
They all work better when they are warm.
You can do this yourself.
Dont get nutted over the paint.
Because you can fix the paint by yourself
You can buy all of the tools and the paint to do it on your own for a fraction of the price that a body shop would charge .
And then, you own the tools, and then you know how to do it.
If you **** it up?
Do it again.
Nobody here is grinding diamonds or making wrist watches or whittling out heart valves in their spare time.
Forget about the paint.
Fix the truck.
Make the paint look good after.
You can do this and once youve done it you can do it again.
And you have the tools to do it again.

I don't know, to do it properly he'd have to scuff and re clear the entire quarter. This being his first time he might also have to deal with sanding scratches, fisheyes, runs, dirt in the paint, and maybe delamination of the clear later on.

If it were me I'd rather try to save the original paint and just deal with carefully straightening the panel.

There is also a middle ground in which he could just paint up to the body line.

If it were my truck, I'd definently cut the access hole and carefully knock it out.

Alternatively, he might be able to get an inflatable back there through that front body plug and pop it out that way.

 

[Caman96]

…just find the most qualified person you can to do the job correctly.

 

[Orpedcrow]

https://youtube.com/@elevationdentco.4463?si=uTc83VPF2nfXxW4p

 

[thinger2]

I don't know, to do it properly he'd have to scuff and re clear the entire quarter. This being his first time he might also have to deal with sanding scratches, fisheyes, runs, dirt in the paint, and maybe delamination of the clear later on.

If it were me I'd rather try to save the original paint and just deal with carefully straightening the panel.

There is also a middle ground in which he could just paint up to the body line.

If it were my truck, I'd definently cut the access hole and carefully knock it out.

Alternatively, he might be able to get an inflatable back there through that front body plug and pop it out that way.

I understand that idea but I really think that cutting o hole in that inner panel will cause way more grief than try to match the paint.
He only needs the paint to look good enough up to the body line.
He doesnt need to do the entire quarter.
That paint that is in or near the crease in the metal is going to pop loose anyway.
You can screw up the paint over and over again without even getting near the difficulty of trying to weld that access panel back in place.
Plus. Now he has to buy a welder and a hood and a welding jacket and learn how to weld sheetmetal while laying underneath the truck.
Granted, I am looking at the damage on the worlds oldest living samsung J3 so I cant tell if the quarter is damaged.
To me it just looks like the lower panel below the body line.
If I did decide that I needed access to that area I would cut the spot welds and seperate the inner from the outer way before I thought about cutting a hole in it.
Spot welding sheet metal with a crappy welder is much easier than trying to seam weld sheet metal with a crappy welder.

 

[jjester6000]

I understand that idea but I really think that cutting o hole in that inner panel will cause way more grief than try to match the paint.
He only needs the paint to look good enough up to the body line.
He doesnt need to do the entire quarter.
That paint that is in or near the crease in the metal is going to pop loose anyway.
You can screw up the paint over and over again without even getting near the difficulty of trying to weld that access panel back in place.
Plus. Now he has to buy a welder and a hood and a welding jacket and learn how to weld sheetmetal while laying underneath the truck.
Granted, I am looking at the damage on the worlds oldest living samsung J3 so I cant tell if the quarter is damaged.
To me it just looks like the lower panel below the body line.
If I did decide that I needed access to that area I would cut the spot welds and seperate the inner from the outer way before I thought about cutting a hole in it.
Spot welding sheet metal with a crappy welder is much easier than trying to seam weld sheet metal with a crappy welder.

I wouldn't weld it back on, I'd probably just cut a larger piece of sheet metal out and self tap it over the access panel.

 

[jjester6000]

I understand that idea but I really think that cutting o hole in that inner panel will cause way more grief than try to match the paint.
He only needs the paint to look good enough up to the body line.
He doesnt need to do the entire quarter.
That paint that is in or near the crease in the metal is going to pop loose anyway.
You can screw up the paint over and over again without even getting near the difficulty of trying to weld that access panel back in place.
Plus. Now he has to buy a welder and a hood and a welding jacket and learn how to weld sheetmetal while laying underneath the truck.
Granted, I am looking at the damage on the worlds oldest living samsung J3 so I cant tell if the quarter is damaged.
To me it just looks like the lower panel below the body line.
If I did decide that I needed access to that area I would cut the spot welds and seperate the inner from the outer way before I thought about cutting a hole in it.
Spot welding sheet metal with a crappy welder is much easier than trying to seam weld sheet metal with a crappy welder.

I guess I just like doing PDR, though. I remember when I put a lower quarter on my Suburban with my flux core welder, the repair failed after less than a year.

When I redid I wanted to make damn sure that it wouldn't fail again, so I dug all the filler out of there, sandblasted the ****** welds, rewelded and it flush (with a proper welder). I then cut an access hole out of the inner quarter (from inside the cabin) and sandblasted out the backside of my repair. I finally POR15'd.

The moral of that story is that you should make sure you take care of the inside coatings.

Using a unispotter burns that inside coating right off and can lead to rust (might take 10-20 years to rust though). You can put cavity wax over it, but that'll eventually wear off.

That's why I think cutting out the an access might be a good move for longevity.