Novice seeking help (wiring/engine rebuild)

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Schurkey

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First Guess: NOT 27/32. That'd be a really tight fit on a 21mm wrench at 21.4 mm. That bolt might have a 13/16 head, 20.6mm. 7/8 is 22.22 mm, too big for your 21mm wrench, and 3/4 is almost exactly 19mm.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-235-2501/make/chevrolet
Has a 13/16 12-point wrenching surface.

Holding the damper to prevent the crank from turning can work. If you hold the flywheel end, the damper bolt isn't covered by the prybar, so you could put an impact socket and battery- or air-powered impact wrench on the thing.

You'll break the shank of the bolt before you "strip" a 12-point head.
 
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Schurkey

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Kept editing my post, then found yours. 7/16 thread is for small-block cranks.

1/2" fine thread on a big-block, ARP sells a 13/16-headed bolt for that application, which I've linked-to in my previous post after about six revisions.
 

Amsterdamned96

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First Guess: NOT 27/32. That'd be a really tight fit on a 21mm wrench at 21.4 mm. That bolt might have a 13/16 head, 20.6mm. 7/8 is 22.22 mm, too big for your 21mm wrench, and 3/4 is almost exactly 19mm.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-235-2501/make/chevrolet
Has a 13/16 12-point wrenching surface.

Holding the damper to prevent the crank from turning can work. If you hold the flywheel end, the damper bolt isn't covered by the prybar, so you could put an impact socket and battery- or air-powered impact wrench on the thing.

You'll break the shank of the bolt before you "strip" a 12-point head.
Thanks for saving me from buying the wrong size socket!
 

Amsterdamned96

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I’m going have to move the car to a different spot in my backyard using a ratchet. I’ve removed the steering column and am now wondering what the bare minimum is that I need to turn the wheel. I haven’t disconnected/drained the steering column lines. Am I right to assume that I simply have to reattach the steering column, bolt it to the support, hook up the shift linkage and I’d be good to go? Am I forgetting anything in relation to the lock mechanism?
Will I have to put the gauge cluster with shift indicator back in or can I do this ‘blind’?
Or should I choose the route of disconnecting the driveshaft and not worrying about the trans?
 

Schurkey

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Bare minimum to "turn the wheel"? Jack up the front of the car, position the front wheels in the direction you need (but turn 'em more, 'cause they'll straighten out during the move.)

You could flip the lever on the side of the trans to any gear except "Park" and be fine.
 

Erik the Awful

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Back when my wife and I fostered, one of the kids found the keys to my '69 Cadillac and was playing with them. Now I can't find them anywhere - I think he buried his 'treasure' in the back yard. I had to move the Caddy, so I unbolted the shift linkage and used a pair of small vise grips to shift it into neutral. Then I used a floor jack to steer it (6000 lb car, that was a pain in the butt) and a winch to get it on my trailer.
 

thegawd

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I have a fairly giant 77 dodge motorhome without a key! there is a key but my FIL dosent know where TF it is. it's got that good dodge motor everyone wants.... I just want it TF out of my way. you've given me some good idea here guys that I didnt really think of. I was told I shouldn't need to worry about anything as the steering wheel isn't supposed to lock and it's an auto but apparently it's supposed to roll but i dont buy it.... why didnt I think of just unbolting the tranny linkage.... LMAO. simple. i was thinking of hot wiring it. this thing is like 40 feet long. I would give it away even though it's not mine yet just to get it TF out of my way! I almost have but then I'd have to explain how a motorhome without a key dissapeared to my father in law... LMAO. only 80000kms.... sitting for years but apparently runs.

Al
 
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Amsterdamned96

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These are all valuable inputs, I’ve realised that disconnecting the main driveshaft (it’s a K3500) is too much work. If this isn’t so then please let me know.
How can I tell from the shift linkage which gear/position the trans is in?
 
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