Memory steering

[Lu Blunt]

I wasn’t sure how the balljoints could be overly tight but it’s a reputable shop so I didn’t think about it. I had the alignment down 5k miles ago after the 4/6 drop, this was a check up on the alignment cause I was certain the caster was wrong because the truck would drive straight. They didn’t charge me to recheck alignment or for the balljoints

 

[Lu Blunt]

I had a different shop do the install and I know everything was greased proper. I will regrease them n see if that helps. After driving over hard bumps sometimes I would notice grease on inside of the front wheels, maybe its stressing the balljoints when the tires bottom out n before long no more grease n now my balljoints are damaged. Will bad balljoints also cause play in the steering wheel?

 

[Schurkey]

IF the ball joints are good (and the shop says they are)
IF the caster angle is good (the shop says you're more positive than spec, and I approve)
AND you still have no return-to-center

THEN you need to look elsewhere. Other potential sources of stiff steering would be inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm joint, and the steering box itself.

Play in the steering wheel can be from ANY loose joint, the steering box, or--and this is really common--the damned rag joint at the bottom of the steering column.

 

[RichLo]

If that alignment sheet was AFTER they adjusted then bring that sheet to another shop and get it re-done. Its obvious that shop is just working you for money... there is no reason to 'adjust' ball joints and there is a lot of red on that alignment sheet!

 

[magimerlin]

By looking at your spec sheet... your caster angle on both side are outta spec. Even that little bit can cause issues. Doesnt look like they adjusted it all by the numbers staying the same on before and after slots.

As far as the steering play goes. Most likely cause is the rag joint near the bottom of the shaft by the box, and it's the easiest part to check. Next check the box its self. This is providing there is no play in any of the tie rod ends, or idle arm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[Schurkey]

your caster angle on both side are outta spec.

"I" would not complain about additional positive caster. It won't wear tires, and it will provide additional steering stability. It's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned.

Given a choice, I'd like to see another half-degree or so of negative camber.

 

[Bullitt210]

Has anyone tried adjusting the play out of the steering box during all of this? If so, cranking the adjustment screw in too far will cause binding and severely affect you steering return.

 

[someotherguy]

Has anyone tried adjusting the play out of the steering box during all of this? If so, cranking the adjustment screw in too far will cause binding and severely affect you steering return.

Good catch. I usually find myself advising people to never touch that screw, for that very reason.. it's only part of the adjustment; doing it correctly is way more of a hassle than most people want to bother with (and if the box is really worn, may not help anyway.)

Richard

 

[Ken K]

Yes, positive caster improves "Return-to-center" steering, as long as the machine is correctly calibrated and a good tech is doing the work. I agree with Schurkey as caster does not effect tire wear, but many time, extra caster on the right side helps with road feel on bad roads. Also a little negative camber will help as well. Remember, only toe & camber wears tires, unless somethings bent, but that shows up on the machine as SIA at the start of getting current measurements.
My concern is tight parts and loose parts. This brings me to the steering gear. Wear in side the box occurs at center, but have never seen anyone with one real bad. Get a buddy to turn the steering wheel back & forth a couple of inches from center straight. Look at the rag joint of course, but watch the pitman arm (Cross-Shaft) movement. If the intermediate shaft moves, but the pitman does not, adjust the steering box screw. Hold it still, break the nut loose, screw inward until you get resistance. Back off 1/2 turn and go for a drive. You should not have 2-3" of play at the wheel...you just have to find it. Don't be afraid to tighten the steering gear box screw as it pushes the cross-shaft into the teeth of the piston. If worn too much, some slight binding may start about 1/2 turn of the steering wheel either direction. Back it off 1/4" turn and re-try. I worked on farmers' trucks and school buses in the 70's that never saw pavement except on Sunday.
NOTE: I hate auto-spell-check...It does not understand vehicle parts terminology.

 

[Schurkey]

Get a buddy to turn the steering wheel back & forth a couple of inches from center straight. Look at the rag joint of course, but watch the pitman arm (Cross-Shaft) movement. If the intermediate shaft moves, but the pitman does not, adjust the steering box screw. Hold it still, break the nut loose, screw inward until you get resistance. Back off 1/2 turn and go for a drive.

That's ONE of two adjustments, and nobody ever does the second one.

Either one can cause slack at the steering wheel.