Memory steering

[Ken K]

The un-spoken part never discussed is the intermediate shaft and it's joints. The main steering shaft fits inside the top end of the intermediate shaft, while the bottom has a rag joint, then finally the steering gear. The upper joint has had several TSB's mostly for noise. But by design, it contains two spring loaded square blocks with dimples to hold lubricant. These internal parts do wear and are subject to special grease and sometime a kit listed in a TSB that may include a new rubber boot, grease, blocks, springs, nylon inserts depending on how yours is designed. It should be tight enough to keep rotational movement to a minimum but it allows for cab to frame movement as the effective length changes with flexing between the two. This joint aids in keeping the shaft from pushing the main shaft into the cab, just above your belly button. That is hopefully eliminated by a collapsable wire cage as part of the intermediate or next to it. The main thing is to get an eyeball on the parts under the hood while someone is slowly rocking the steering wheel back & forth an 1" to start while carefully looking for lack of movement. Then focus on the steering box even if you have to look from the bottom up. Put a hand on the input shaft to feel and watch the pitman arm. All movement should be simultaneous. Even the lower column bearing if worn should be included.

 

[454cid]

The un-spoken part never discussed is the intermediate shaft and it's joints. The main steering shaft fits inside the top end of the intermediate shaft, while the bottom has a rag joint, then finally the steering gear. The upper joint has had several TSB's mostly for noise. But by design, it contains two spring loaded square blocks with dimples to hold lubricant. These internal parts do wear and are subject to special grease and sometime a kit listed in a TSB that may include a new rubber boot, grease, blocks, springs, nylon inserts depending on how yours is designed. It should be tight enough to keep rotational movement to a minimum but it allows for cab to frame movement as the effective length changes with flexing between the two. This joint aids in keeping the shaft from pushing the main shaft into the cab, just above your belly button. That is hopefully eliminated by a collapsable wire cage as part of the intermediate or next to it. The main thing is to get an eyeball on the parts under the hood while someone is slowly rocking the steering wheel back & forth an 1" to start while carefully looking for lack of movement. Then focus on the steering box even if you have to look from the bottom up. Put a hand on the input shaft to feel and watch the pitman arm. All movement should be simultaneous. Even the lower column bearing if worn should be included.

Is this the early GMT-400 shaft you're talking about? I have the late shaft, and had it apart earlier this year. The only thing I remember being inside was a flat spring. There is also some plastic in there, but it's molded.

 

[Ken K]

Yes, the coupler / slider design was change more often than underwear. Plus, as they crash these on purpose, changes came to how the column is design to collapse. Wire cages, convoluted tubing, etc. found it's way into the steering mix. I will confess, I have never tried to commit to memory all of the types used.

 

[outlawten5]

You've been to the alignment shop twice.

Post the alignment angles. I'm especially interested in how much positive caster you have.

3--4 inches of "play" in the steering wheel is intolerable. That MUST be fixed.

This

 

[Lu Blunt]

Been driving the truck pretty regularly the last 6-8 months. 500+ miles a month. Steering still has play in it and no return to center. I’m parking the truck for winter and looking into a new alignment shop and upgrading the steering gear box. Last alignment was done dec 2018 and the specs are posted on the first page of this thread. I’d really like to do the elevated concepts rack and pinion conversion. Anyone here have experience with the kit ?

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[Schurkey]

I’d really like to do the elevated concepts rack and pinion conversion. Anyone here have experience with the kit ?

I hope not. Stunning waste of money considering that there's nothing wrong with the recirculating-ball system if it's engineered properly and not worn-out or bent.

There's something wrong with your truck. You just haven't found it yet.

What did you discover when you checked the rag joint and the steering gear for play? That was suggested almost a year ago. Certainly you've looked at it in the meantime...right?

 

[Lu Blunt]

I couldn’t find any play in the rag joint or steering gear box. Had the mechanic inspect the gear box when he installed idler and pitman arm but said there was no need to replace them and steering was tight. it’s a 96 and does not have the evo power steering assist. Sometimes it seems the loose steering is more exaggerated than other times

 

[sparetimefab]

I had the djm upper and lower arms and had this same issue. After replacing every factory steering component except steering column and multiple realignments to djm specs, I removed the arms for the factory arms and a new drop spindle and the steering issues were gone before it was even aligned. Im pretty sure something is off in there arms.

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[Hipster]

Who knows what ball joints came supplied with the arms???

That being said some replacement offshore ball joints (ie, some of the Mevotech crap) has plastic/Delrin? type insert the balls sit in instead of a metal cage. if your bottoming against the stops or beating the wheels into the wheel house these plastic cages could be damaged and cause the bj binding. I would suspect the bj's and do something with the truck so it's not beating itself to death.

 

[Hipster]

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the shop removed the balljoints saying they were overly tight n might be causing the binding and reinstalled the same balljoints saying they looked brand new and they would grease n torque them to a proper spec. This seemed to help to free up the steering but after a couple months of driving it’s steers like before they worked the balljoints. Here’s a pic of the alignment paperwork

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This is incomplete. Where are the SAI and turn radius numbers. No set back numbers either. You could have an issue of one side pulling in too much toe in the turns but they half assed it or removed the number from the sheet for some reason.