Lights, fan, signals cause engine to spasm.

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elfbrew

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Got a 90 Cheyenne 4x4. 5.7 .
Relaced ac complete under hood. So it runs great until you use the signals or turn the fan blower on doesn't matter ac or not . engine bucks like wants to quit. Turn off blinkers or fan and it's normal again..
 

pressureangle

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Probably a bad ground being backfed through the PCM. Check your firewall-to-Engine and battery-to-frame grounds to start. Could be the PCM ground trying to find it's way back through the users, if you have the ground stack on the front manifold bolt, remove, clean, and secure them carefully.
 

GoToGuy

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So you worked on it, and now you have a " self inflicted" problem. What did you replace, there could be 9 separate items.
Recheck all connections, and connectors. Was the AC not functioning before?
Something electrical.
Pull the turn signal fuse, see if stops.
Since can see it or hear it, tough call.
 

elfbrew

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Yeah.. Work was done by professionals. No rework of wiring or connections... That I'm informed of.
Blinker fuse was blown when i picked it up. Changed that.
I think I'm looking for a ground issue just not sure where to start, under hood or dash.
 

elfbrew

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Year old alt. Charging at 14+ . i assume vr is in the alt? Dash V gauge hits 12 with ac ,flips 10 - 14 w blinkers & Engine pulses. Ac and blinkers together gets reaction. Lights ok alone add ac or blinker and not ok.
Checked all grounds i can find they're 30 years old but attached.
 

Schurkey

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Year old alt. Charging at 14+ . i assume vr is in the alt? Dash V gauge hits 12 with ac ,flips 10 - 14 w blinkers & Engine pulses. Ac and blinkers together gets reaction. Lights ok alone add ac or blinker and not ok.
Checked all grounds i can find they're 30 years old but attached.
Get the battery and alternator load-tested by someone who knows what they're doing. Ideally, NOT the pimply-faced kid at the parts counter who can't test the alternator "on the car". Off-car testing is a crapshoot. Also, doesn't test the wire harness connecting to the rest of the vehicle.

If the alternator can't hold voltage, so that it drops to 10v with the engine running, SOMETHING is wrong in the starting/charging power team, or in the wire harness to the dash gauge.
 

Road Trip

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Got a 90 Cheyenne 4x4. 5.7 .
Relaced ac complete under hood. So it runs great until you use the signals or turn the fan blower on doesn't matter ac or not . engine bucks like wants to quit. Turn off blinkers or fan and it's normal again..
Hello elfbrew,

I don't want to assume anything, so I may ask more questions than
absolutely necessary.

While you are reading my questions, please refer to the 2 pages I attached to
this reply to get a general feel of how you would research the exact answer
in the '90 Service Manual. (Disclaimer: I have the '99 books, so what I posted
is just to give you a general idea.)

Q1: Before you had the A/C repaired, were you able to run the fan blower
without impacting the way the engine ran? In other words, since there was
no A/C maybe you didn't run blower motor? (I'm trying to prove/disprove
that we had a latent fault lying in wait for you to start using this circuit
with the A/C repaired? Of course there's that nagging turn signal symptom,
I'm sure that they worked OK pre A/C repair?)

Q2: I'm reading "...or turn the fan blower on doesn't matter ac or not".
So I could assume that the fault still occurs even though the electric A/C
compressor clutch is de-energized? You see, if we were just switching on the A/C,
we would be energizing (and simultaneously putting a load on the
respective grounds) for both the A/C compressor clutch under the
hood + the ground supporting the blower motor under the dash.

It may seem redundant, but if you were to temporarily disconnect the
plug to the A/C clutch and then turn on the blower, then if the problem
still shows, then we sharpen the focus to a ground under the dash.
If the problem disappeared, then the ground for the clutch under the hood
is where we would go next. (G105 on p.8-381 for my '99.)

Q3: Here I'm going to assume that when you disconnected the A/C compressor
clutch the symptom remained. And further, that you can stimulate the fault
just with the blower motor, whether A/C, vent, heat, etc are selected.
In English, fan powered up = disruption of how the engine runs.

So on the first attachment you can see that the blower motor is grounded
at G202. On the 2nd attachment, the book claims that G202 is located
"on the right side of the instrument panel, mounted to the HVAC plenum
bracket." From my (admittedly distant) vantage point in upstate NY, I'd
say that during the course of replacing your A/C that the mechanic could
have been in this neighborhood & possibly either disturbed or disconnected
this ground? And now it's marginal, so that when the blower motor starts
to sink current to this ground, it raises the voltage on this gimpy ground
point just enough that it's affecting other circuits trying to use this same ground?

****

Here's the good news -- you have figured out how to stimulate the fault at
will. With the divide & conquer power that the fuse panel gives us, if the
above didn't narrow down the problem, you can pull fuses one at a time
and see if some logically unrelated circuit is contributing to the failure
thanks to unseen wires getting smashed together, creating a new
& wonderous undocumented circuit that I don't see in the manual. :0)
(Admittedly a long shot, but just for completeness.)

****

FWIW since you can stimulate the fault with just the blower motor I
didn't root around for the turn signal circuit, especially since I don't
have the correct '90 books. I do find it interesting that you can
stimulate the fault with the fan blower OR the turn signals? According
to my book the exterior turn signal bulbs use a different ground,
so instead of it being 50/50 (underhood vs. underdash) it's now a 49/51.
(just a little more under dash because of the flashing indicators
in the instrument cluster and/or associated flasher relay?)

I'm still kinda new here, but I'm pretty sure that somewhere in
this forum there is an online repository for the service manuals?
I'm sure that one of the long time gurus can point you to them if
you don't find them on your own.

Again, I'm just trying to give you a semi-specific troubleshooting
approach, but the correct '90 docs would certainly accuratize
the search.

As long as you can break this at will, you will also be able to track
it down & fix it.

Best of luck --
 

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Erik the Awful

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I think I'm looking for a ground issue just not sure where to start, under hood or dash.
Start at the battery. Make sure everything is clean and tight. Follow the battery's ground wires to where they terminate and clean all those terminals and make sure they're tight. Make sure your engine has a ground going to the frame. My truck doesn't have the stock engine ground, but I believe it's on the back side of the passenger head.
 

pressureangle

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Yeah.. Work was done by professionals. No rework of wiring or connections... That I'm informed of.
Blinker fuse was blown when i picked it up. Changed that.
I think I'm looking for a ground issue just not sure where to start, under hood or dash.
As someone said above, 'self inflicted'- or in this case, 'probable unintended damage'. With any complex problem, begin with what you know; they changed the A/C. So anything nearby is suspect. I don't know how much different the '90 is underhood, but on my '94 I'd start by verifying the battery-to-fender ground, the head-to-firewall ground, the harness grounds on the manifold and the power distribution above the accumulator. Those are the most likely places to have a wire yanked loose accidentally.
 
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