K1500 to 2500 axles/upgrade

[great white]

I cracked my rear carrier in half dumping the clutch for a burnout once lol
so pissed I did that

Let me guess: OEM 10 bolt with a Govlok?

 

[SixSpeedSS]

I'm certain I am late to the party in this thread, but wanted to reply...

The K2500 frame is taller, the spacing on the upper and lower control arms is different, the track is wider, etc, etc. The rear is simple for the most part. You could swap the front diff (I think you still have to fab mounts or move them - can't remember) and have custom axles made, but then you would still have 6 bolt wheels on the front, because the spindle is completely different between the two trucks. Of course you could try to find the rare 6 bolt axle/14 bolt rear diff, but probably tougher to find than all the work up front.

I looked into doing this many years ago on a K1500, but decided it wasn't worth the effort and later sold it. I now have a K2500.

 

[K15 Blazer]

yup lol

so it sounds like a s)hit ton of welding no matter what, but it would just be easier to cut and shorten a K2500 suburban frame and remount the body.... makes sense...

well that'll be a gnarly project/hobby for when I have my own spread... right now my truck barely even fits in my garage with the door open

thanks, all!

 

[SixSpeedSS]

FYI - I would use a 2500 truck chassis. The suburban chassis is completely different behind the front seat.

 

[tanman_2006]

I'm looking at cutting the frame of a 1500 and grafting a 2500 to the front. Looking at where the front frame section meets the main chassis under the cab it looks like it could be welded back together.

I want to run 8 lugs on my 95 K1500, I have a 14FF 3.5" wide drum rear w/ 3.42's and a set of 3.42's for a 9.25 IFS, I dont want much if any lift, and I want it smooth riding. I also have a 96 K2500 parts truck that I could chop up. My 95 is pretty rusted in the front anyways (atleast in the places not coated with oil lol)

 

[great white]

I'm looking at cutting the frame of a 1500 and grafting a 2500 to the front. Looking at where the front frame section meets the main chassis under the cab it looks like it could be welded back together.

I want to run 8 lugs on my 95 K1500, I have a 14FF 3.5" wide drum rear w/ 3.42's and a set of 3.42's for a 9.25 IFS, I dont want much if any lift, and I want it smooth riding. I also have a 96 K2500 parts truck that I could chop up. My 95 is pretty rusted in the front anyways (atleast in the places not coated with oil lol)

Mixing a 2500 and 1500 frame is bad idea.

The section modulus are different for each.

Even if the yield strength is the same between 1500 and 2500 (IIRC it is), there's no knowing what the final RBM (resistance to bending moment) would be

RBM = section modulus (SM) x Yield strength (YS).

If you mix two different SM, you have no idea where the value actually is.

Just get a 2500 frame and build it up with 1500 springs and bars. Sounds a bit silly to me as a 2500 can be made to run just as smooth as any 1500 if set up right.

My 2500 rides better than my 1500 ever did. Both smoother and more stable.

If you don't care that your frame properties are going to be messed up, then just spark it up and burn it together.

But stay far away from me out on the road.....

 

[tanman_2006]

I didn't think of that, I figured it was all the same grade steel. I also figured it would be no different than shortening frames for a short bed.

Also there are people that bend their frame horns and graft a new front section on, that is probably a 2500 to 2500 graft.

What about the guys that build low riders with cut and grafted frames?

I won't be using 1500 t bars, I already have 3500 bars on the 1500. Like you said, it's not hard to make it ride solid like a truck but smooth enough to not knock your teeth out.

Is there anyway to find out if the same grade steels were used?

Source Unknown

 

[great white]

I didn't think of that, I figured it was all the same grade steel. I also figured it would be no different than shortening frames for a short bed.

Also there are people that bend their frame horns and graft a new front section on, that is probably a 2500 to 2500 graft.

What about the guys that build low riders with cut and grafted frames?

I won't be using 1500 t bars, I already have 3500 bars on the 1500. Like you said, it's not hard to make it ride solid like a truck but smooth enough to not knock your teeth out.

Is there anyway to find out if the same grade steels were used?

Source Unknown

SM is not the steel.

YS is the steel.